Mark Maras
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Everything posted by Mark Maras
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McMaster-Carr would be a good place to look.
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I fabricate everything I can. Donor sheet metal is the next choice. I've not had to buy replacement panels, The fitment of replacement panels seems to be a common problem.
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Are you tired of injection and going to go the SU route on your 280?
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The slogan of one of the early barbecue joints in Portland was, "You can lick our sauce but you can't beat our meat."
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Metal work is similar to paint work. Prep work is critical. Clean sheet metal and the proper 1/32" - 1/16" gap between the pieces will ensure good penetration and a good looking weld. Do have a mig welder?
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I actually thought the original seats were fairly comfortable with one exception. During spirited driving, on track and off, my narrow butt would slide from side to side on the wide seat even using a five point harness.
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Those running clear Dorman filters to their SUs
Mark Maras replied to JSM's topic in Carburetor Central
I believe the tanks are the same. The major change was when the compact spare was introduced. -
No salt in the rub? Nice set-up. Let us know how they turn out.
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Those running clear Dorman filters to their SUs
Mark Maras replied to JSM's topic in Carburetor Central
My clear filter was never full when the engine was running. Never had a problem with lack of fuel to the carbs and the fuel level didn't change with a new mech. fuel pump. Never have figured out the "Why". -
New member introduction - My 76' 280Z in Atlanta
Mark Maras replied to eloZada's topic in Introductions and Rides
The engine revving freely, but not when it's under a load is lack of fuel. Not much to tear down. Pull the chambers and pistons, clean everything and be sure the pistons drop freely. Pull the float chamber tops, The needle and seat (fuel valve) is under the top. The trickiest part is setting the floats. -
@jalexquijano
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New member introduction - My 76' 280Z in Atlanta
Mark Maras replied to eloZada's topic in Introductions and Rides
Does the engine rev freely when it's not under a load? Patcon is right. That doesn't look like much fuel for a four minute run. A fuel pressure and volume test will rule out lack of fuel up to the carbs. Any crud in the float bowl is bad. The crud can slosh it's way into the needle and seat, potentially, either partially plugging the fuel orifice Lack of fuel) or stop the needle valve from seating. (too much fuel) depending on the size of the crud. Be sure to remove and clean it. I'm curious if the floats have deteriorated to the point that they don't float at the proper height anymore. On the outside of the float lid, where the fuel line connects, clean the small (last chance) filter (fine screen) located in the banjo fitting. Check the float height, reset the mixture screws to 2 1/2 turns and fire it up. -
Should you desire to practice on one first, I have a 71 dash that leaves much to be desired. I doubt you could make it look worse. No shipping. You're about 3 hours away.
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Hello from across the pond! Searching for a 240z
Mark Maras replied to Woody928's topic in Open Chit Chat
The 2.4's and 2.6's? used the spray bar. I don't know the exact changeover date. -
Wheee! nailed it. Burton Cummings. Heck of a vocal range and a great piano player too. American Woman is a classic and the message is still pertinent. No Sugar Tonight/New Mother Nature is still my favorite.
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Likewise. My family is well versed in giving me "THE LOOK" when I do something stupid again.
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Keeping it waxed is gonna be the real challenge.
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I agree, love the science. More pieces to add to the grand puzzle. I think most of us members are autodidacts with a touch of O.C.D. and masochism thrown in.
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Sorry, I don't have a recommendation. I haven't used any insulation in the past. I don't remember if you wrapped your headers. A stock intake might be a good thing to try. Should be easy to source from a member. Not sure you'd need it but have you checked to see what ceramic coating costs are in Central America?
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Mine too. The power drill hooked up to the pepper grinder was one of his finer inspirations.
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I doubt anyone here has tried wrapping the intake. I doubt it would help the problem. IMO the problem is heat in the fuel lines and maybe the float bowls.
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I agree with Patcon. I doubt that this is going to be a one step fix. You'll have to keep chipping away at it and eventually you'll get it to the point where the worst symptom is the engine taking a few extra revolutions to start in the heat. If cracking the hood helps (probably won't cure all of it) the situation, you might want to consider a vented 280 hood or louvering the access panels next to the hood to vent excess heat.
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@Patcon There's unlimited recipes for sauces, rubs and different wood but the best advice I can share for barbecue (not grilling) is Low and Slow. Temp somewhere between 200` - 225` F and hours of cooking time. 3-4 hours for ribs, at least 6-8 hours for a brisket, minimum. To late for rib pics, tho.
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Lightnin Hopkins
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@Redwing I don't know much about the whooshing sound from the tank. When you loosen the cap, is the whooshing excess pressure (positive pressure) in the tank or does it seem like a vacuum (negative pressure)? Anyone, Was the 76 gas cap supposed to be vented? Is the whooshing sound normal? The hard start symptoms are typical of a minor? heat soak problem. Interesting that Redbird only has a small problem with it considering the 76 doesn't have hood vents. You could try cracking the hood when shutting the engine off to see if venting the heat will help it start faster. If you definitely want to try the flex fan let me know and I'll ship it to you. Relatively easy to install. Just four bolts. Congrats on getting the AC working. Z's can be brutal in hot weather.
