Mark Maras

If it looks silly (I agree) and you don't like it, why not remove it before the fuel rail, drive it and share any change you experience with the club members? The fuel rail could come later. Your contribution to solving the problem may prove valuable to others with Zs in warmer temperatures. I, for one, am curious how much change you notice in changing one thing at a time.

When you pop the hood, how long does it take for the idle to smooth out and is the temp gauge dropping as the idle improves? Did you bypass the stock fuel rail on the engine with a flexible fuel line yet? Assuming the plugs now look somewhat normal in color (tan-ish, tell us if they're not), What radiator and fan combo are you running? Specifically, the number of rows in the rad and if you're using a clutch fan, does it have much resistance in the clutch? On my first Z I found that a larger capacity rad (3 row) and a flex fan stopped my overheating problems on those blistering hot (100`+) days sitting on I-205 during rush? hour. Before that fix however, I found that shutting off the engine even briefly instead of idling would delay the overheating quite a bit longer (it always started with a click of the key) and on a few occasions I turned the heater and fan on high to help drop the engine temp. Not much fun in a Z with a black interior, no louvers and 100`+ heat but anything to save the engine, which it did.

Looks like a pop-up camper attachment. I didn't see it at first. I was fixating on the size of those side pipes. Look like they're from an old 427 Vette or a 427 Cobra.

Precisely the reason I didn't share. Maybe I'll show it to my daughter first.

That's great. We've all experienced the thrill of the drive.

Yeah, "scammer" was over kill on my part. I've found the sellers with a large inventory of parts are frequently not as easy to deal with as the person selling one or two parts.

It would be nice to know how much of the interior is missing. If the rust is truly minimal, everything that's missing is bolt on. Much easier and cheaper in time and money than replacing sheet metal. Looks like less work than my 74.

On the plus side, it was done to a 2+2.

Personal experience? Nice to know about scammers in our area.

Another reason why I love Oregon.

That's great. The possibilities are endless and possibly revealing.

Nice looking mod. How much flex in the f. w. were you able to detect?

If the gaskets align and the thumb screws are long enough, I'd use it as is. That gasket in the housing is one of those "unicorn parts".

Need a few more puzzle pieces. When the idle drops to 500, and assuming you instinctively hit the throttle to compensate, is there any stumble or hesitation? Also assuming that you revved the engine to compensate and let it fall back to an idle, did the idle return to 900, even temporarily or did the idle go back to 500?

No meter repair. Hook up a temporary ground to any "suspect" ground circuit using a length of wire and two alligator clips to see if "things" improve. If that perks things up, add a semi-permanent ground to the circuit until the orig. fault can be found.

I prefer the zinc rich primer to the weldable primer. Zinc rich primer is weldable too. The added bonus is the corrosion resistance.

The ratio can be confirmed by putting the rear of the car on jack stands. Mark the tire and drive shaft with chalk. Either rotate the tire 360` and count the drive shaft revolutions or rotate the drive shaft and count the revolutions it takes to turn the tire 360`

Ditto

I wonder if the thought was, The car is to fast, You're not gonna outrun this guy. Can't imagine why they would consider the owner of a sports car a threat. Unless they were transporting NOS parts, that is.

I owned a 521. I didn't know the U existed. I like it.

So, is the cover being held for ransom?

Welcome and congratulations on your find. Does it have much rust? I have some parts from a late 71. What part of the world are you in?

I'm not familiar with the term (part) called a throttle switch. What type of fuel delivery system does the car have? Fuel injection (factory?), or carburetor(s), description and quantity. I'm curious what color the plugs were before the improvement.

Yup. I experienced the loose pan bolts multiple times on my first Z. I just got in the habit of checking them when I was under the car.

@Blue