Mark Maras

It's probably that love-hate relationship we have with rust.

I'd pull the float chamber top and check the float valve for extraneous matter blocking it open or wear on the needle or seat faces.

I've never heard of a differential cooled with fuel. I doubt I would have even considered it as an option.

I'd break it off and super glue it.

We 've got the same feeling here. 20 f this morning and tonight along with freezing rain that is predicted to end up 1/4"-1/2" thick. That means trees and power lines down around here. Thank God for our wood stove. I keep thinking about our Canadian neighbors and even stop whining about the cold when I remember them.

@jalexquijano I'm still not clear if all the plugs are fouling or just #4. Or if #4 is the first one to foul followed by the others. Please clarify.

Is #4 still the only plug fouling or are we dealing with all the plugs fouling after idling in traffic for a half hour?

Probably something to keep the sunroof? from leaking. The something looks like carpet, hopefully it has a waterproof base.

I'd look into the shifter bushing. Worn ones can create a lot of lateral movement.

Is the sound coming from the engine or starter? A stethoscope (3' piece of garden hose) and a friend turning the key would help to isolate it.

If you can't find anything wet under the car, I'd look behind the right rear plastic panel.

Even someone as old as Jay Leno.

I don't remember any yellow paint marks on my Nov. 70 build 240. The key word is remember.

The downside to me would be struggling to start the engine when it's cold, not two choke cables.

The solvent, in this case alcohol, is used to soften the rubber. The wintergreen oil is used to keep the rubber soft after the solvent evaporates. I've heard Go-Kart racers use these chemicals to soften their tires.

Yes, but it may be difficult to start when the engine is cold and the mixture will be lean until it's warmed up.

It's an improvement in my book. No drawbacks other than it's not an original frame piece.

The nozzles sticking is frequently caused by misaligned nozzle linkage. The ends of the little flat bar linkage pieces must be parallel with their mating surfaces. Normally a bit of a twist with pliers is all it needs to realign them. Unfortunately, I've not found a way to see and tweak the linkage into alignment without removing the carbs. Slow and sluggish acceleration sounds like it may be running rich. Pull a spark plug or two and take a look.

I vote for the slotted wheels.

@siteunseen

Do you know which needles ZTherapy supplied with the SUs?

Is your clockwise adjustment your view from the top of the carb or is it looking at the adjustment screw from the bottom of the carb? This makes a huge difference. When we describe turning the mixture screw clockwise, we're imagining looking at it from the bottom of the carb and we're leaning the mixture out. If you're imagining looking at the screw from the top and turning it clockwise, you're richening it. You could pull a dome and watch the nozzle as you adjust the height and tell us if the nozzle rises or drops when you turn it clockwise.

Charles has a good memory. It was, as I recall, just #4 that was fouling. Are they all fouling now after idling?

Refresh my memory please. What happens when you raise the nozzles?

I have to ask, Why do you let it idle instead of turning it off? Trouble restarting when it's hot? It's obviously too rich. The most common problems, aside from float levels, are stiff nozzle hoses, misaligned nozzle choke linkage or misadjusted choke cables. All of these can prevent the nozzles from raising up all the way when the choke knob is pushed into the off position. How many turns down are the nozzles?