Mark Maras
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Everything posted by Mark Maras
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I was curious if anyone had modified the cap or ring. I don't have a locking cap to look at but I'm assuming the tab width on the cap is the problem. Looking forward to your mod.
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I've been watching that one. He has the front torn down. "See other items", lists the steering column, cross member and the rad. support. If anyone is interested, I live near Happy Valley. I haven't figured out how to contact him.
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Jim Was the trans exhibiting any symptoms that might be improved with different oil? I'm still trying to figure out if I needed to change my synchros back in 75 or just change brands of gear oil. I'm leaning more toward the oil as time goes by.
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13445507_439585639566850_3588957658080283076_n.jpg
Mark Maras commented on Mike's gallery image in 2016 Events
Tired of sitting cross-legged? -
I'm not sure. I got curious about that when I looked at the pics of @RedBird. She's a 76 and has the non-vented hood. I'd take a guess at the year but knowing Z's that would be useless. I think it would take VIN #s to narrow it down.
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GreyHound Express is the best way I've found to ship larger car parts like tanks, glass and sheet metal. Not much chance of a gas tank getting dented in the belly of a bus. No room to stack anything on it. Everything I've shipped has arrived in good condition at around half the cost of UPS or FedEx.
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Nice find. Good condition too. I haven't seen one before. Do you suppose any of the original parts are still sitting on a dusty shelf somewhere? I don't remember a Nissan Racing School back then. No surprise.
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Another place to look is the spare tire well. An ice pick is useful in determining the depth of rust pockets. I wouldn't use it on the upper painted surfaces, at least if the owner is near.
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Welcome Danielvbro Mechanical issues are a walk in the park in these cars. Mechanically they are near bullet proof compared to others of this era. Rust and Bondo are the two biggies to watch for. When you find either, do a realistic estimate of your; wallet depth, time frame, your abilities and your desire to undertake the project. That said the price is right unless the body is badly rusted. @heyitsrama is right. Check at zhome.com. A lot of very useful information about what to look for and where to look for body damage when shopping for a Z. The price is great if all else is OK. You've come to the right place for help. The diagnostic hounds in this club love to get their teeth into new meat. Good luck.
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Oh yeah. Great deterrent. Facing a dog (or person) like this you have to ask yourself, how crazy is this SOB. Deanna, RB's dog, is a lover not a fighter. Barking is probably the extreme limit of her guarding abilities.
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Excellent. More options. I sent a message to RB. In lieu of a locking cap, she's leaving the cap a bit loose to detect tampering. The logic being, anyone tampering with it would put the cap back on tight. She is also looking at trail cams.
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Thanks SteveJ. I'll pass the info to RedBird. She's still looking for one.
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I was quoted $125.00 labor, in Portland, to R&R the windshield in the 81 RX7 if I R&R the moldings, and I can watch too. Probably more if I help. It's the same type windshield, gasket and moldings as the Z's. For that price, I'll let someone else do it.
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I haven't installed a Z windshield (yet) but have done a few with gaskets in the past. A helper or two (more hands) to support and position the windshield while pulling the cord makes the job much easier. Before the days of string trimmer cord I used electrical wire. Anything strong and low friction works good.
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I believe the term flats, when referring to carb adjustment refers to the old style mixture adjusters. All the (Hitachi) SUs I've seen have a knurled nut with two raised dots. One being larger than the other. Three flats would be a half turn, six flats would be a full turn just like a bolt.
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Great story. How times change. It was just a few years back that your family had much different feelings about your Z. Have the "Who Gets Her" conversations started yet? The first one of the family that volunteered to wash her is the one that has a plan.
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Plunk that sending unit in CLR for 24-48 hours. You'll be amazed how good it will look. I've done two that were crusty and stuck. Both looked hopeless. They both look good and work. As I recall @Wheee was the one with the CLR suggestion. Of course, you'll have to find a way to plug the sending unit hole with something else.
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Going for the obvious first. Have you tried lowering the antenna on FM?
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If you do need to remove the gaskets, an inexpensive (Harbor Freight) wood chisel works better than a razor knife to remove them. BTW, they also are great gasket scrapers.
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Fantastic. I'll pass the info along. I'll probably get one for myself too.
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I haven't researched or chosen a product yet. I've still got a way to go before I put her back together. I do know that I'm not going to use the tar mat or jute. Many people have used Dynamat (sp).and have no complaints. I'll probably go with that.
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She's looking for any method to lock it. First idea was a locking gas cap. Seemed cheap and simple but it appears no one makes one for the large diameter filler. Patcon brought up the locking door in post #2. A keyed lock that replaces the old style chrome twist knob is evidently available. The reason for the lockable gas cap isn't gas theft. Vandalism is the concern.
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I agree with Dennis. If you don't want to drive it with an automatic, put in a 5 speed and save and label all the automatic parts. Easy to change it back that way.
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The problem with the original jute padding is that it does hold moisture for years, spreads it over a large area. No easy way to remove and dry it after it gets wet. I'd look for something else. You don't want a sponge under the carpets. If you do use a foam product, be sure it's closed cell.
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Thanks, I didn't know anyone made a lockable twist knob for the older cap covers. I'll forward that info to Jai (RedBird). I have a spare cover with the twist knob (wrong color). She may be halfway to a lockable fuel tank already. I'll let you know if she wants to go that route.
