Mark Maras

Looks like a perfect part to reproduce with a 3D printer.

Does it run and drive well? Regardless, if the body is as good as the owner claims, it's worth it. Good luck.

No sleep mask ads on mine. Somewhere, someone thinks I want to buy a new full size pickup or should. I haven't searched for anything remotely close to a new vehicle of any kind. Something tells me you haven't searched sleep aid products. The ads on the right side of the screen seem to be linked to companies that I've done business with. I get a lot of Guitar Center ads on the right. @MikeI have used that G.C. link to purchase an expensive harmonica on line. I don't know if that boosted revenue for the club. (I hope so) I don't know how that whole system works. If the purchase did boost revenue is there a way to expand the quantity of links so we can add to the income?

I agree. But aren't you going to miss the fuel injection?

Beautiful. Soooooo close.

Anyone remember that Datsun stripe package? New to me. Maybe an East coast dealer package. Now I'm curious where and when the Zap stripes were originally installed. Factory? Dealer? Different stripe package in different countries? Pinning down factual info on these cars is like herding cats.

Good eye Cliff. I think you're right. The darker shade of yellow in the engine bay looks original. If decals are available, changing it back to a Zap would add to the value.

Unless you LOVE the Cherokee trade it. Agree with Zed. Around here you could probably pick it up for $6,000 - $7,000 if the body is good. $4,000 - $5,000 if it's only fair. The Z will gain a lot more value over the years than the Cherokee. Now if it was an old Toyota Landcruiser, I might have to give it more thought.

Hadn't thought of it from that perspective. Makes sense.

Thanks @Zup. Don't have my Z on the road yet to try it. You can bet the A/C Delco FM oil is what is going into it tho. I'll use it in the RX7 too.

Thanks, I think I understand now. The ring needs a couple notches on the bottom side so the tabs can move up and down to lock and unlock the cap. Seems straightforward enough if you don't mind altering the orig ring.

I was curious if anyone had modified the cap or ring. I don't have a locking cap to look at but I'm assuming the tab width on the cap is the problem. Looking forward to your mod.

I've been watching that one. He has the front torn down. "See other items", lists the steering column, cross member and the rad. support. If anyone is interested, I live near Happy Valley. I haven't figured out how to contact him.

Jim Was the trans exhibiting any symptoms that might be improved with different oil? I'm still trying to figure out if I needed to change my synchros back in 75 or just change brands of gear oil. I'm leaning more toward the oil as time goes by.

I'm not sure. I got curious about that when I looked at the pics of @RedBird. She's a 76 and has the non-vented hood. I'd take a guess at the year but knowing Z's that would be useless. I think it would take VIN #s to narrow it down.

GreyHound Express is the best way I've found to ship larger car parts like tanks, glass and sheet metal. Not much chance of a gas tank getting dented in the belly of a bus. No room to stack anything on it. Everything I've shipped has arrived in good condition at around half the cost of UPS or FedEx.

Nice find. Good condition too. I haven't seen one before. Do you suppose any of the original parts are still sitting on a dusty shelf somewhere? I don't remember a Nissan Racing School back then. No surprise.

Another place to look is the spare tire well. An ice pick is useful in determining the depth of rust pockets. I wouldn't use it on the upper painted surfaces, at least if the owner is near.

Welcome Danielvbro Mechanical issues are a walk in the park in these cars. Mechanically they are near bullet proof compared to others of this era. Rust and Bondo are the two biggies to watch for. When you find either, do a realistic estimate of your; wallet depth, time frame, your abilities and your desire to undertake the project. That said the price is right unless the body is badly rusted. @heyitsrama is right. Check at zhome.com. A lot of very useful information about what to look for and where to look for body damage when shopping for a Z. The price is great if all else is OK. You've come to the right place for help. The diagnostic hounds in this club love to get their teeth into new meat. Good luck.

Oh yeah. Great deterrent. Facing a dog (or person) like this you have to ask yourself, how crazy is this SOB. Deanna, RB's dog, is a lover not a fighter. Barking is probably the extreme limit of her guarding abilities.

Excellent. More options. I sent a message to RB. In lieu of a locking cap, she's leaving the cap a bit loose to detect tampering. The logic being, anyone tampering with it would put the cap back on tight. She is also looking at trail cams.

Thanks SteveJ. I'll pass the info to RedBird. She's still looking for one.

I was quoted $125.00 labor, in Portland, to R&R the windshield in the 81 RX7 if I R&R the moldings, and I can watch too. Probably more if I help. It's the same type windshield, gasket and moldings as the Z's. For that price, I'll let someone else do it.

I haven't installed a Z windshield (yet) but have done a few with gaskets in the past. A helper or two (more hands) to support and position the windshield while pulling the cord makes the job much easier. Before the days of string trimmer cord I used electrical wire. Anything strong and low friction works good.

I believe the term flats, when referring to carb adjustment refers to the old style mixture adjusters. All the (Hitachi) SUs I've seen have a knurled nut with two raised dots. One being larger than the other. Three flats would be a half turn, six flats would be a full turn just like a bolt.