Mark Maras

RedBird is having a bit of trouble with the new system so i'm asking for her. She is in need of a locking gas cap for RB, a 76 280 ASAP. Does anyone know if anything is available cheap and quick? It appears that Stant doesn't make one for the 76. What years are compatible with the 76? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks Mark

I've yet to see an original wiper motor bag without factory overspray. I do think they look better in black.

A Series II body in 69? Really. I'm continually amazed at how little I know about these cars. More great Z trivia.

Judging from the outside, it looks like a Series II body with a series I hatch. Could it really be a 69?

I'm surprised he couldn't find it. PnP's online inventory says it's on row 30. Thanks

Curiosity mostly. But who knows what I'll find. A handful of fasteners would make the trip worth it.

This vulture will be circling the kill in the morning. Thanks

My 97 Subaru Outback (Spruce Green Pearl) is darned close to what you have. It tends to shift to a bluish green when the light hits it at the right angle. Probably the pearl in it. I think yours is a stock color with extra flake. I don't remember that much flake in the factory paint jobs.

MY used parts looked nearly new. My friends trans had a broken brass ring. Tolerances were within specs. I thought maybe it would be a little touchy shifting it (but better than before) by mixing parts but it was fine. I wouldn't have done it if the parts were worn. Yes. Third and fourth are an assembly, shifted with one fork.

Is that the extent of the symptoms? No problems with any other gears or clutch slippage? Pull the drain plug and see what is clinging to it and what's in the bottom of the case near the hole. Could be a problem in the 3rd, 4th synchro assembly but it could be a problem with oil. The vary first one I tore one down that had the same symptoms as yours. Long story short, nothing wrong with the internals. Everything looked pristine and the clearances were within specs. Since I already had new parts I installed them. Only learned years later that different oil would probably cured the grinding. BTW, I did take a chance and use the brass synchro rings from that trans in another later with no problems. Never had a chance to prove it but the evidence points to oil.

I can't count the number of times I've "loved tapped" the fuel pump in the MGB. Thought that was just a Lucas quirk.

Describe your clutch problem. Slipping, not disengaging, noise? Double clutching for third and fourth. What about reverse, first and second? @KDMatt started a thread called "Found metal at the bottom of my 5 speed. What next?" on May 9th. He successfully repaired his trans using the DIY garage method. It seems intimidating at first but it's very doable. You'll see what you're up against and how to overcome the difficult spots. Zed Head is right. These transmissions can be finicky when it comes to oil. Any chance you want to try changing it before you tear it down? It could make a big difference.

My original early 71 had the bullet style mirrors on both doors. @Mike B is correct, they do have limited visibility but very usable compared to mounted on the front fenders.

I'd bypass as much as much of the existing fuel system as possible too. I think your plan for an auxiliary pump and tank feeding the existing filter sounds like a good way to run it without sucking all the yuck from the tank into the filter and possibly beyond. Good plan. IMO

#2 was the "good thing". #1 A very good thing. #3 is a fantastic thing. Your "glass" got filled this week. Congrats.

Go for the right hand mirror. A couple of properly treated screw holes is far better than body damage caused by lack of vision. IMO form over function is placing the mirrors out on the front fenders. They look great but field of view is very limited.

Cam timing and ignition timing are two different things. Don't change your cam timing if you're sure it's right.

This brings back painful memories of a 65 Mustang cast iron (heavy) 4 speed that wouldn't go in. Two of us tried repeatedly to muscle (no jack) it in until we were exhausted. Finally, in desperation, we pulled the clutch disc out and found a burr on one of the splines. Filed it down and made sure the disc slid easily on the input shaft splines. Trans. slid right in. Now I make sure the pilot bushing fits over the input shaft and the splines on the shaft and disc are compatible. I find it quite easy to double check the disc alignment by sight on a Z. There's enough room to get your head up in the tunnel and see if it's centered. Eyeballing or measuring the gap between the bellhousing and the engine is the best way to determine if the alignment is off. I prefer to have the tail shaft just a bit lower so I can lift the rear and push at the same time. Not to be confused with twerking.

Agree with site. Any place that will be welded later use either weldable primer or zinc base primer on them. I prefer zinc base primer. Extra corrosion protection.

Have you tried bypassing the horn switch? Temporarily connect the horn to the battery with a jumper wire to be sure it functions properly. That would eliminate a bad horn as a possibility.

IMO, Rust and previous damage are the #1 issues. Even IF you can repair and replace sheet metal, it's a PITA. grannyknot@ is correct, any rust you see is only 20%. Many people have given up on their project when they discovered the other 80%. Complete is #2. Kurbycar32@ sums it up pretty well. Some parts are getting expensive and if you take it apart, you'll have a better idea how it goes back together as well as having the fasteners. Mechanical is #3. Hard to judge that if the car doesn't run or drive. Compression test on the engine is possible using the starter. Does it roll? Does it run? Do the brakes work? Wear patterns on the tires can be indicative of other problems. It's very difficult to help you with the value of the car when we have little information to go on. Give us some more info and pics and you'll get a lot more help.

I've removed that bearing with a little heat, a 5/16" pin punch and a hammer. Make sure you put the punch on the inner race. First hit, you'll see it move. I tap on one side, twist it 180`, give it another tap. etc.

Those are NICE. What year(s) Z28?

The "divot" is common in old cylinders. If the seals won't contact it during their stroke and if you can get an installed seal past the divot without damaging it, IMO you're good to go. I'd consider the repair as a temp and give me time to source a new one. What is the difference between the old and new seals?

I discovered the lack of height to clear the bellhousing the first time too. I separated the bellhousing from the trans under the car (early trans) and reassembled it under the car. It was easier than lifting the car higher at that time. That was also back in 75. Now my back is the reason I don't.