Mark Maras
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Everything posted by Mark Maras
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Steering Wheel - 300ZX / 240SX Wheel Into First Gen Z
Mark Maras replied to Captain Obvious's topic in Interior
That is the first wheel change in a Z, that I've seen, that looks "right". Thanks for sharing the machining pics. Great job on both. -
I used a small floor jack on a creeper under the tail-shaft housing. It helped stabilize & adjust the rear of the trans as it was sliding into place. While the rear of the trans is still down a bit, slip the drive shaft into the trans. Align the drive-shaft with the rear-end flange with one hand and jack the trans up into position with the other hand. Everything will stay in place while installing fasteners.
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Done it a few times. I always started with engine then the trans. working aft.
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I questioned the six year rust too. He doesn't state the extent of of it. A daily driver in the winter on salted roads could certainly do some damage in six years. A lot of the undercoating on Zs cracks & loosens over time and can collect moisture in pockets. Floor pans are a good example. Probably what looked like a huge amount of rust back then, would be considered very repairable now. Also the extent of the rust is in the eye of the beholder.
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Wilwood Superlites pulling right and sometimes left
Mark Maras replied to z boy mn's topic in Wheels & Brakes
Be very careful when you blow the pistons out of the cylinders. An aluminum hockey puck shot out of a cannon. They can do serious bodily harm. Voice of experience. Helped a friend adjust his bias on a wet paved street. I was observing from a dry garage with a beer. Time wise, it took two beers. -
What are the symptoms of your clutch issue?
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Best ideas for steering wheel replacement, 1975 z
Mark Maras replied to Taxelson's topic in Interior
My 260 project came with a wheel similar to the one above. As soon as I sat in the car & grabbed the wheel, I knew it was going to be replaced by the one from my 71. IMO, the larger diam. wheel makes the car easier to turn at a creeping speed. A parking lot or parallel parking can be a bit of a struggle for older arms & shoulders. A Z interior just doesn't seem complete to me, unless it has a wooden wheel & shift knob. Love the look too. -
Gaskets here too. (Cereal box) Use a paper punch for the holes. Either should work as long as it is sealed.
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Brake master cylinder interchangeability
Mark Maras replied to mazingerz1976's topic in Wheels, Tires, Suspension
I'm curious. Was there a visual difference between the two kits? It seems to me that bleeding would account for the hard vs soft pedal. -
Painting vs bodywork? IMO, painting is like drag racing. You get one shot to get it right. Bodywork is like road racing. If you don't get it right the first time, you can work on it until it is right.
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^ Z PORN ^
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Craigs' list Portland- Complete coil-over suspension, front and rear. Removed from a 77 280. $1000.00 If any one is interested, I can offer PIF help.
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Thanks for "The rest of the story". More pieces to the puZZle. I love Z trivia but I fear turning into a Cliff Claven, unless it wins me a beer.
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The calipers on my 71 are silver. Don't know if they were originally plated or not.
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Ok, Let's work on something bent. What are the possibilities? Don't know the condition of your parts car but have you compared (measured) the rear structure of both cars? A few horz., vert. & especially diag. comparison measurements inside & underneath on both cars should tell you a lot more. Probably more things but the only other thing I can think of would be the control arm. Thoughts?
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I doubt it's anything you've installed or the way it was installed if the problem existed previously. Some of the suggestions that ignored new parts were; Strut tube spacer left in, easy to check & a good possibility. Rewelded suspension pick-up point, is it located properly? Spindle pin, This got me thinking about post #1. The car had sat for 17 years. How was the car situated during storage? On four wheels on relatively flat ground? Some tires flat? On stands? Level?? Or could it have sat with three corners supported and one corner left to sag or could one spindle pin have seized while one corner was fully extended for 17 years. Probably grasping at straws here but you can't have too much info.
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Thanks for that bit of Datsun trivia. Always was curious about the origin.
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Single stage paint has it's benefits. I think it's a better choice for a daily driver.
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That's a BFP. Something's gotta give. How about a video.
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Shifter knob & probably a capped dash too. Nice Z outside, Inside could definitely use some refreshing.
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Golly. I never realized how simple it could be to remove dents from a tank. Step 1-remove tank, just in case something goes wrong, Step 2- do not clean, put a fuse in it (just to be safe), Step 3- ignite said fuse, VOILA, a straight tank or shrapnel, Step 4- paint the tank, if there is anything left of you or the tank, Step 5 reinstall the tank. WARNING steps 4 & 5 depend greatly on your & the tanks survival. Seems simple. What could possibly go wrong, go wrong, go wrong, go wrong, go wrong
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When the clutch locked up with a metal fan on my 71. The engine sounded like it had a aircraft prop. under the hood. It also robbed the engine of a bunch of power but no flying things. I'm not a big fan of the original clutch. I've never found two that spin alike.There was a noticeable difference when I took mine off. The engine revved quicker. If I remember correctly, Carl was referring to metal flex-fans self destructing. When my original fan clutch seized, I replaced it with a metal flex-fan and ran it hard for another 15+ years with no problem. Maybe I got lucky.The f-fans decrease parasitic HP loss because they flatten at speed and don't pull any air. The cooling system doesn't need a fan If the car is moving over 10-15mph.
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Harbor Freight has a cross-bar dent puller. It uses glue to attach to the panel. One user reports successfully pulling dents out of a motorcycle tank. Success seems to depend on prep. 70 reviews, three stars. For $11.99 it's worth a try. This got me wondering if one couldn't do something similar with a large flat-head screw or nail. Glue it on and use a slide hammer. I don't know what adhesive i would use but there are many to choose from. Should you choose to weld studs on the tank, drop some dry ice into it first. When co2 vapor comes out of it, you're good to go.
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I've not tried to pull spindle pins yet but I've had success removing corroded pins and bolts on other machinery. Along with the soaking but before heating I get some dry ice. Fortunately, the local Baskin & Robbins sells it. After heating the casting, chill the pin with ice. Wet ice will work but dry is better. Then use a press or a factory adjusting tool (BFH) on it. I've found even if the pin won't move at first allow it to cool and continue soaking. The shrinkage from the ice seems to break the bond between the casting and the pin allowing penetrant to seep in.
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Gainesville Craigs List-TODAY Sanford Fla. 240-260-280 parts. bottom of the list-body parts. Hope you get lucky.
