Mark Maras

I've run into this problem in the past. The clutch alignment tool I used was a bit sloppy. and allowed the clutch disc to drop down a bit before I tightened it. Trans wouldn't go in that last little bit. I loosened the pressure plate just enough to be able to move the disc into the truly centered position, tightened it down and the trans slid right in.

I'd first verify the input shaft fits the bearing

I'd look into UHMW plastic for the button. It's tough, durable and abrasion resistant. Curbell Plastics sells 5' of 1/4 rod for $10.09. That small investment would build well over 200 buttons and put you in the button business.

How about calling it an oriented strand steering wheel. OSSW or just OSW.

That's quite a bit of wheel rotation for the problem to be the brakes. I'd jack up a front corner, grab the the top and bottom of the tire and push on the top while pulling out the bottom, then reverse the direction several times. If you can feel any looseness take a look at the wheel bearing and check to see if it's just loose or trashed.

I remembered 20wt. being used but the oil just slows the piston rise during acceleration. With the butterfly open and the piston slowly rising the air speed thru the venturi speeds up drawing more fuel from the bowl.

California may be iffy too.

Welcome aboard. That's a rare find. You chose wisely.

That makes sense. What I've never understood is the reasoning behind heating the carbs.

I've never understood the reasoning behind heating the carbs unless it was to keep them from icing up in cold temperatures like my 521 used to do. The fuel is already pre-heated in a Z thanks to the routing of the fuel lines to the carbs.

I know little about the grounds on steering columns but I've never heard of using a bearing as part of an electrical circuit..

The parts are structural quality but that is assuming they're installed correctly. Good welds, rust protection, etc.

Next time get a bolt slightly smaller than the bushing id and stuff the hole with bread. Hit the bolt with a hammer and add more bread. Repeat the process until the bushing (or bearing) slides out. It really works well and clean-up is a breeze.

Does anyone remember Colgate Tooth Powder. Years ago my Dad used it to remove light scratches from our car windshield. It worked quite well.

Generally speaking, adding more fuel rarely increases the rpms unless the mixture is way too lean. Air is the most common cause of increased rpms.

If there are no vacuum leaks, something is keeping the front carb butterfly from closing. I'd remove the domes and pistons from both carbs. With the pistons removed you'll be able to see the butterflies and make a comparison test and perhaps find why it's not closing like the rear carb.

The mechanical pump will work with the Holley carb. Both carbs need between 3-4 psi, which is normal pressure for a mechanical pump.

Pull the engine. It'll save time and make the whole job easier.

Either way is pretty easy. If you don't need to remove the trans, leave it in there.

These engines come out and go back in quite easy. The biggest problem I've continually experienced has been disconnecting the exhaust.

It's my belief that Wix makes some of the best filters. They make the NAPA premium platinum oil filters. There are a few good videos on Youtube where people have cut open the filters to show how they're made. Wix was one of the best. Fram sucked.

I don't see much wear on the symbols that would indicate heavy usage. I think they were made that way.

If you couldn't suck any air thru the diaphragm, it's likely good and the problem lies in the bound up vacuum (base) plate. If you can get that to rotate freely I think it'll work.

I don't mind replicas as long as they're not misrepresented as OEM parts.

Don't sweat the 2mm clearance. The important thing is there is enough clearance between the release bearing and the pressure plate fingers that the bearing doesn't spin with the pressure plate when the clutch is released.