Mark Maras
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Everything posted by Mark Maras
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just read your last post. You can try cold but steel bends easier when it's hot.
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Nothing too scientific but I'd try torquing it with no gasket, the engine cold and the flange hot (below 1000 f, dull dark red). Torque the leaking area first and then the rest. Keep checking the torque in the leak area as the flange cools. Then remove the manifold, install the gasket and retorque.
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13.65 is very respectable. Just for comparison, back in the day, the best time my SS 396 Chevelle got was a 13.86
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I prefer the adjustable one. First adjust the clutch pedal to the proper height. (specs are in any repair manual) Without the spring attached shorten the rod until there is slack in the lever movement. Now lengthen it until there is about 1/16" of slack before the lever (and r. bearing) puts pressure on the p. plate. If there's no gap the r. bearing will continue to turn with the p. plate. Now the clutch pedal should have a bit of slack at the top of the stroke before you feel the p. plate resistance and should go down far enough to release the clutch. The bottom line is, if there's too much free play at the top of the pedal stroke and the clutch won't fully disengage, lengthen the rod. If there's no free play at the top of the stroke and the clutch slips, shorten the rod.
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That's what I remembered. We've got to keep this in mind because most of us view (mentally) the m. screws from the bottom. I'm still curious to know if both carbs are pulling the same amount of air at idle.
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When you say clockwise, is that viewing the mixture screws from the top or from under the carbs? Your thoughts on 3.5 turns down vs 4 turns being leaner is correct. You mention both carbs opening at the same time,which could be linkage related, are pulling the same amount of air at idle?
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Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z
Mark Maras replied to grannyknot's topic in Build Threads
Are you going to show the overpaid painter his craftsmanship? -
More info please. Throttle open or closed, did the engine have oil pressure, proper valve adjustment, rubber hose on the c. tester are some of the things that will affect the readings. I would hope for something in the mid to high 160s with no more than 10% variation between the cylinders.
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I think a compression test is a good idea, however, the symptom of the car not moving faster than 5 mph isn't a sign of a bad head gasket. After the compression test I'd look into fuel supply problems and then ignition problems.
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That's news to me. I thought DEXRON was always ATF. Thanks.
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I understand using Dexron (hydraulic oil) in the power steering, I still use it. Just Googled "ATF in a manual transmission". To my surprise there's still overwhelming support for the use of ATF in a MT. My next question would be brass synchro compatibility. ATF would have been nice on those freezing mornings when the trans was difficult to shift at first.
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By 83 Dexron was ATF. In the early days of ATs 20w oil (often engine oil) was used and about as thick as automatic trans oil got.
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Dexron ATF or SAE 80W-90 in a manual gearbox? I hope the explanation can be found in the "for further details, refer to the recommended viscosity chart"
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The simple way would be disconnect the wires to the solenoid. Do you have any theories why #s 4, 5, and 6 are fouled now? As I recall #4 was the only fouled plug previously and changing a couple of valve seals doesn't explain #s 5 and 6 getting worse. Was anything else worked on or fixed during the valve seal installation?
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A friend and I just ran into the oddity of the 1955 Packard using 12 volts and positive ground a few months back on his Packard Patrician. That one threw both of us into confusion until we dug deeper.
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The adjustable one is the proper one. It's stock on the early Z's. I prefered it because one could adjust the free play in the release bearing. The 5 speed doesn't enter into the equation.
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I think you're correct. My 71 had no heat shield on the speedo cable.
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It may have looked cool. Lowered and a stiff ride, she was ahead of her time.
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Looking at the cut end at the bottom of the springs and the rust on the lower half, I'd guess there was a acetylene torch involved.
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Well, it would appear we're back to the rear carb. How many turns down are the mixture screws on both carbs?
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I agree with Cliff. It seems to be a rear carb mixture problem of some sort. How many turns down are the nozzle screws? However, that doesn't explain #5 and #6 looking like #4. As I recall, #4 alone was the problem child. @jalexquijano What was the outcome of changing the valve seals? Was one of the seals on #4 damaged and did you change them all or just #4?
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The problem I've experienced with flux core and repeated small welds is the flux left on the finished weld. When it cools it prevents instant conductivity to start the arc when doing small welds. If it doesn't arc instantly you're left with a longer wire which will act like you've turned down your welder. You'll have success if you clean each weld before attaching another weld to it. I usually try for very small gaps and I run it a bit hotter (instant arc) than I would for a continuous weld. I would also suggest the smallest wire you can find and an auto darkening hood (for precision).
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I prefer flux-core for welding rusty, crusty or plated thicker steel. This paper thin sheet metal, if properly cleaned and has minimal gaps is best welded with a MIG using Argon or a Argon-CO2 mix if TIG is not an option.
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.035 is the measurement that I always used. Good luck on the floats. Just for clarification, the float level doesn't have to be exact, just close. If you want it exact, the fuel level should be 3/8" below the carb bridge. That's 9 5/8 nozzle screw turns down from the top.
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It may be time for a new set of BP6ESs too. I've experienced a high RPM stumble that was cured by new plugs.
