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Mark Maras

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Everything posted by Mark Maras

  1. Mark Maras
    Portland, Sat. 105`, Sun. 110`, Mon. 107`, Tues. 97` & staying in the 90s for the predictable future. Summer is here in the Northwest. Fortunately, our AC can keep the house below 85`. Many people don't have AC here because one only uses it for a few days a year.
  2. Mark Maras
    Yeah, but it works well for an emergency turn.
  3. Mark Maras
    "Make it so".
  4. Mark Maras
    The spring definitely holds the nozzle screw in place. Can you remove the stopper plate? As I recall it is screwed in.
  5. Mark Maras
    Is the stopping plate removable? I remember something like that on a set of 4 screws I had. If I recall correctly, it was removable so one could remove the nozzles.
  6. Mark Maras
    The easiest method to verify (set) the float level, I've found, is remove the domes and pistons. Raise the nozzle screws up to the top and then turn them 9 1/2 - 10 turns down. The fuel level should be at or near the top of the nozzle. That puts the fuel level 3/8" (recommended) below the carb bridge. Close is good enough. No need to get obsessive.
  7. Mark Maras
    Take a look on YouTube. There are a lot of excellent videos. Search "240Z valve seals".
  8. Mark Maras
    I always tuned my carbs with the vacuum advance connected. Leaving the hose off will act the same as a vacuum leak, on that carb, and the mixture will change when it's all hooked up. I'd try retuning the carbs with the v. advance hooked up. Why do do want to install a dual point distributor? Personally, I prefer single point distributors.
  9. Mark Maras
    That once was called an "Italian Tune Up".
  10. Mark Maras
    The simple answer is, one of the valve seals (I'd guess the intake valve seal) #4 cylinder is leaking. The surface of the seal that rides on the valve stem is damaged, probably during installation. That allows oil to run down the valve stem and get sucked (intake valve) into that cylinder.
  11. Mark Maras
    If it was mine, I'd start with removing the #4 valve seal and inspect it for damage. I suspect it was compromised during installation. Swapping out the other seals depends on what you find and the desire to do all of them.
  12. Mark Maras
    If all the plugs look like #6, except #4, you've already got the evidence. More idling or high traffic driving will continue to darken #4 until it fouls.
  13. Mark Maras
    I can't think of a direct reason for the starter solenoid to activate when the engine stumbles but If you are trying to keep it running by pumping the throttle or pushing in the clutch or something similar, you may be hitting a bare wire under the dash, by the pedals, due to the PO's hack wiring job. Something, somewhere must be completing the solenoid circuit.
  14. Mark Maras
    Is that physical or mental age? I'd be glad to verify that the calender says I'm 72. Mentally, I don't qualify.
  15. Mark Maras
    For what it's worth, the floats on my 71 never sat level when adjusted to the proper height. They always were up higher than the pic but they didn't hit the lid or the walls. I may have missed it and it's Obvious as hell but did you confirm the actual float dimensions are the same as the old ones?
  16. Mark Maras
    Especially Authority. Just because one excels in one field, it doesn't mean one knows squat about anything else.
  17. Mark Maras
    Where can I get a GeeZer t-shirt. Kathy says I need one.
  18. Mark Maras
    Have you determined if the float is bumping the float chamber wall or the lid?
  19. Mark Maras
    A while back I looked through older SU (including Hitachi) books and forums about the float level heights. Many of the sites said the same thing. "The float levels aren't critical but the fuel level should be near 3/8" below the carb bridge". That would place the fuel level 9.525 nozzle turns down from the top.
  20. Mark Maras
    Odd, the font at Hybridz size appears to be the same size as here. I use an old PC and Windows 7 and Google if any of that is pertinent.
  21. Mark Maras
    If it's a rod bearing, disconnecting the spark plug wire from the plug, while it's idling, will substantially lower the ticking noise.
  22. Mark Maras
    It was many years ago. No explosion but one of them did squirt some oil. As I recall, I drilled them about half way which may explain one of them rebounding. Try drilling them closer to the rear of the cyl.
  23. Mark Maras
    I drilled my early 260 shocks and they compressed back to the point where the bumper looks good. One shock wanted to re-extend out a bit after drilling so I installed a screw to hold it in place.
  24. Mark Maras
    I'm not a bit surprised that it may have come from a lab. As long as they can claim plausible deniability, they're safe.
  25. Mark Maras
    The late 71 that I disassembled used no clips.
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