Mark Maras

Looking at the pics it looks like the clutch disc lining is worn down to the tops of the rivets. I see what I think is a few shiny rivets. If it's down to polishing the rivets, it's time to replace it along with the release bearing and pilot bushing. And, "as long as you're in there" having the flywheel resurfaced or even lightened.

They can be a multi-tasker. I've used mine to pull stubborn shrubs and laurel hedge and lift a riding mower to clean-out the deck. Now I'm considering mods to convert it into a firewood splitter.

I have a H.F. engine hoist that folds up and doesn't take up much space. Years ago I pulled and reinstalled my 240 engine using two 2x4x8s, garage rafters, a one ton cable jack, jack stands and the Z jack. I unbolted everything under the car, lowered it, hooked up the cable jack to the engine, finished unbolting the topside, lifted the engine a bit and rolled the car back as I lifted the engine. It sounds like a PITA but it all went well.

Does the linkage operate smooth without the springs?

There should be a very small gap (just enough air for idle) between the butterfly and the carb housing if the linkage is correct and the choke linkage isn't opening the butterfly a bit for cold start. The only way the pistons will lift is by the engine drawing air past the butterflies.

Are the pistons up or down when it's running? If they're up it would indicate the butterflies are open. If they stay down it would indicate an intake leak.

I can't imagine an intake leak large enough to idle an engine at 4,000 rpms. When you say the throttle is all the way closed, are you referring to the throttle pedal or the carb butterflies? I think your butterflies are partially open which would indicate something is wrong in the linkage. Mine did the same thing one time when I forgot to hook up the heat shield springs.

I don't lift the carb pistons. I remove all the spark plugs, adjust the valves, turn the engine over with the starter until the gauge shows oil pressure, install the c gauge, open the throttle all the way and turn the engine over until the c gauge needle won't go higher. I always start with #1 and the #2-#6, then I repeat #1. Frequently the reading on #1 will improve slightly because of increased oil circulation after repeated engine revolutions.

At 4+ turns down you got backfire out of the exhaust during acceleration, then you leaned out the mixture and got backfire from the carbs. How many turns did you lean it out?

I don't know who that would have been. @zedhead used to live in Portland, maybe he knows.

I've removed the studs with a piece of hardwood and a big hammer. Reinstall the lugnuts and pound on those, not the studs.

It seems to me that the reason that carb isn't pulling any air is either linkage that isn't opening the butterfly or the piston is stuck at the bottom. Have you checked both of those?

I (we) went back and got a better look at the white 240. It turned out to be an early 260 with a sunroof and possibly a missing cowell. The little of the body that I can see looks straight. Being a 260 kinda took some of the wind out of my sails as well as Kathy reminding me I've already got an unfinished early 260. If anyone is interested in it, it's on Foster Road near I-205 in SE Portland. I have the address and the owners name (who doesn't sell anything according to a neighbor) if anyone out there is interested.

Have you checked the fuel filters inside the banjo fittings that are on the top of the float bowls? They could explain fuel in the fuel lines but not enough entering the bowls. Carbs really don't need much fuel pressure. They'll even run fine using a gravity feed.

I've used my table saw table and emery cloth for truing flat surfaces.

Or are they fish-eyes? They can be caused by Silicone, wax or oil under the paint.

Most carbs have accelerator pumps that squirt an extra bit of gas to enrich the mixture when one pushes on the gas pedal. Round top SUs don't have an accelerator pump as Charles stated. Try starting it without the choke and if it doesn't start right away gradually give it more choke until it fires.

4 1/2 turns down surprises me. Seattle, Portland and Salem are all within a few hundred feet of sea level and to my knowledge, 2 1/2 turns down has been the standard for anything near sea level. I'd look into rechecking the float levels and identifying your needles.

Is the clunk coming from the front or rear?

You only need enough choke to keep it from stalling. It will need slightly less choke at idle than under a load and gradually less as the engine warms. Typically, I give it full choke, start the engine and as soon as the idle becomes lumpy and the rpms drop, I start decreasing the choke until the idle is smooth, revving it slightly to `test the mixture` for good response.

What wt. oil are you using in the carbs? Thicker oil will enrich the mixture under a load. 20 wt. was recommended by the factory. Were you using the nozzle screws to adjust the mixture? If the floats are at the proper ht. (primary mixture adjustment), 2 1/2 turns down on the nozzle screws should get you close. Do you know what needles you're running?

Can you read the info on the cover?

Don't worry about dash lights yet. They're not needed to get the engine running.

Remove the spark-plugs and valve cover. Then, have a friend turn the engine over with the starter and watch for oil pressure at the gauge while you watch the cam to be sure it's getting oil. When oil pressure and cam lubrication is assured, put it back together, grab a couple of beers and fire it up.

If the issues with the old engine are it's tired and using oil. I'd use the rebuilt engine, as is. Would the flat top pistons demand higher octane fuel? Fuel prices could enter into the scenario if you drive it a lot.