Mark Maras

I don't lift the carb pistons. I remove all the spark plugs, adjust the valves, turn the engine over with the starter until the gauge shows oil pressure, install the c gauge, open the throttle all the way and turn the engine over until the c gauge needle won't go higher. I always start with #1 and the #2-#6, then I repeat #1. Frequently the reading on #1 will improve slightly because of increased oil circulation after repeated engine revolutions.

At 4+ turns down you got backfire out of the exhaust during acceleration, then you leaned out the mixture and got backfire from the carbs. How many turns did you lean it out?

I don't know who that would have been. @zedhead used to live in Portland, maybe he knows.

I've removed the studs with a piece of hardwood and a big hammer. Reinstall the lugnuts and pound on those, not the studs.

It seems to me that the reason that carb isn't pulling any air is either linkage that isn't opening the butterfly or the piston is stuck at the bottom. Have you checked both of those?

I (we) went back and got a better look at the white 240. It turned out to be an early 260 with a sunroof and possibly a missing cowell. The little of the body that I can see looks straight. Being a 260 kinda took some of the wind out of my sails as well as Kathy reminding me I've already got an unfinished early 260. If anyone is interested in it, it's on Foster Road near I-205 in SE Portland. I have the address and the owners name (who doesn't sell anything according to a neighbor) if anyone out there is interested.

Have you checked the fuel filters inside the banjo fittings that are on the top of the float bowls? They could explain fuel in the fuel lines but not enough entering the bowls. Carbs really don't need much fuel pressure. They'll even run fine using a gravity feed.

I've used my table saw table and emery cloth for truing flat surfaces.

Or are they fish-eyes? They can be caused by Silicone, wax or oil under the paint.

Most carbs have accelerator pumps that squirt an extra bit of gas to enrich the mixture when one pushes on the gas pedal. Round top SUs don't have an accelerator pump as Charles stated. Try starting it without the choke and if it doesn't start right away gradually give it more choke until it fires.

4 1/2 turns down surprises me. Seattle, Portland and Salem are all within a few hundred feet of sea level and to my knowledge, 2 1/2 turns down has been the standard for anything near sea level. I'd look into rechecking the float levels and identifying your needles.

Is the clunk coming from the front or rear?

You only need enough choke to keep it from stalling. It will need slightly less choke at idle than under a load and gradually less as the engine warms. Typically, I give it full choke, start the engine and as soon as the idle becomes lumpy and the rpms drop, I start decreasing the choke until the idle is smooth, revving it slightly to `test the mixture` for good response.

What wt. oil are you using in the carbs? Thicker oil will enrich the mixture under a load. 20 wt. was recommended by the factory. Were you using the nozzle screws to adjust the mixture? If the floats are at the proper ht. (primary mixture adjustment), 2 1/2 turns down on the nozzle screws should get you close. Do you know what needles you're running?

Can you read the info on the cover?

Don't worry about dash lights yet. They're not needed to get the engine running.

Remove the spark-plugs and valve cover. Then, have a friend turn the engine over with the starter and watch for oil pressure at the gauge while you watch the cam to be sure it's getting oil. When oil pressure and cam lubrication is assured, put it back together, grab a couple of beers and fire it up.

If the issues with the old engine are it's tired and using oil. I'd use the rebuilt engine, as is. Would the flat top pistons demand higher octane fuel? Fuel prices could enter into the scenario if you drive it a lot.

It appears the large end is a crushed tube. Stretching my imagination and making several assumptions (it was a tube, it's not an orig. part), it looks like something I'd fabricate to extend and anchor a cowl drain tube inside the fender.

Are the two, mirror image of each other?

Together, we'll get thru it.

Are you going drive up to Kent and take a look at them? One could remind the real estate agent the property is worth more without 'junk cars' sitting on it. and offer a much lower price. No titles doesn't make them parts cars, it just makes them a lot cheaper in my book. We bought our 81 RX7 with no title. It took couple of months and a bit of frustration because the original owner lived in Washington and we needed an Oregon title but we succeeded.

There's a lot of goodies there for $2000.00

Well, i woke up last night at about two in the morning thinking about that dirty white 240 behind the bushes and the fact that it looks like one could clean it up and drive it. It looks complete and the filth that covers it is brown and not red rust. So much,`wishful thinking`.Obviously several hours of convincing myself to let it go didn't work. I'm left with the same feeling as when I bought the last Z I didn't need. Someone has to save this car from rotting away. It shouldn't just be sitting here in the NW rain. Images in my head of the handsome prince rescuing the fair maiden from the dragon.

I didn't see 'the boy with the banjo' on the front porch of the run-down house next door but it does look like he could live there.