Jump to content
Welcome Guest! Please read more information about our club!

Mark Maras

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,703

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    26

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Mark Maras

  1. Mark Maras
    They have a website too. Phone # 503 505 6200
  2. Mark Maras
    Confirmed by the gentleman who made WD1 - WD39
  3. Mark Maras
    Use a torch tip file to clean the small holes in the tube. The crankshaft will have to be turned as you slide the pan back and down. Pull the spark plugs to allow the engine to turn over easier.
  4. Mark Maras
    The lumpy idle and surging is a sure sign it was running lean as something in the EFI was failing.
  5. Mark Maras
    Are the two mating flanges parallel to each other before bolting them together?
  6. Mark Maras
    Wait a minute, the earth can't be flat and hollow unless we're living on a bagel.
  7. Mark Maras
    @wheee! Have you considered fabricating a couple of pieces to extend the drip rails (rain gutters on both sides of the hatch) that stop a few inches short of the rear of the car? Easy to do and they would stop water from collecting on the hatch latch panel.
  8. Mark Maras
    Ah, memories of a Z in the snow. Four wheel drifts were a lot of fun until the snow got too deep.
  9. Mark Maras
    Looking much better. Are any of the hoses touching the bodywork? I can't tell looking at the pics. If you've inspected the fuel pump wire insulation, it looks undamaged and there's no green patina on the wire ends, I'd leave it alone. It's always a good idea to keep the wire connections clean.
  10. Mark Maras
    Wow, the things one discovers on this site. TFC is about a quarter mile from my house. Thanks
  11. Mark Maras
    Ahhhhh, the smell of gear oil in my bedroom. Many good first time mechanical stories. Another one being refreshing my first S30 trans on a 4' x 8' piece of plywood in my apartment bedroom. It was successful but my girlfriend (short lived) didn't appreciate the aroma that remained for about a month.
  12. Mark Maras
    Wrestling trannys always brings back the memory of my first clutch job on a friends car. We made multiple attempts to stuff a cast iron 4-speed into an early Mustang. After about four or five muscle searing tries, we discovered the parts store had sold us the wrong disc. From that point on I always slid the disc onto input shaft and made sure there was no binding of any sort.
  13. Mark Maras
    No plastic pads on the steel forks. They have 180` of contact with the synchro.
  14. Mark Maras
    The engine support goes under the pan. The clutch alignment tool will fit through the pressure plate fingers. I've always turned the output shaft to align the splines with the clutch disc. Back in the seventies, before clutch alignment tools, (One had to use an input shaft) I successfully installed two clutches by sticking my head up in the tunnel and aligned the clutch disc by sight. I eyeballed the clutch disc splines to the center of the pressure plate fingers. It worked so well the first time, I did it again later.
  15. Mark Maras
    @tleverettReviewing my notes, the bushing kit is Dorman #38397. I seem to remember they were for a Mopar of some sort. They're reported to be used for door hinge bushings and shifter bushings in S30s.
  16. Mark Maras
    If my memory is correct, Wheee came up with this fix. If the sending unit has electrical continuity (check it with an ohm meter), submerge it in CLR for 24-48 hours. You'll be amazed and it will be usable as well as looking good.
  17. Mark Maras
    If you don't want to separate the rods from the pistons, weigh the assemblies. It's not as good as weighing items separately but it will give you more info.
  18. Mark Maras
    If the fork isn't broken from hard shifting, "abby normal", premature wear usually comes from resting one's hand on the shifter while driving.
  19. Mark Maras
    I'm guessing it's the longitudinal ogee curve along with the tiny MOON eyes.
  20. Mark Maras
    No need to go any farther than your local auto parts store. Measure each flexible hose you want to replace. Add the lengths and round up to the next foot. Cut the new hose to fit and replace any suspect clamps with new ones.
  21. Mark Maras
    Many people have used the fuel pump from a 1st gen RX7 to reduce the pump noise. Although I haven't put one on a Z, I can verify our 81 RX7's pump is virtually silent.
  22. Mark Maras
    What is the orange sheet metal channel that sits where the choke normally lies? It looks like it has a lock cylinder in the center.
  23. Mark Maras
    The clamps you're using will work fine although they're not as good as the F.I. rated clamps. Looking at the pics, I don't think the problem was the clamps it likely the hose. Cliff (Siteunseen) mentioned in another thread, (on the same subject) that the line you're using isn't rated for gasoline, although I haven't verified that. I trust Cliff. Replace all the flexible fuel lines with the proper hose and reroute the new hose so it doesn't touch or rub on any bodywork. Pics when you get it done.
  24. Mark Maras
    Tis but a flesh wound.
  25. Mark Maras
    That rang a bell from the distant past. I remember an old timer telling me about condensers of different values causing either the center electrode or the ground to burn down more than the other.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.