Mark Maras

@BDJeffDon't limit your search to US mags. I suspect that many wheel companies back then US, American Racing, Fenton, Ansen sprint, Appliance, Cal Chrome, Cragar, ET, etc used a universal plastic cap. Searching while i'm writing. Possible SCORE. akhwheels.com in Ellensburg Wa. has 8 of the US Mag 4 screw centers. Be sure to verify the dimensions. Good Luck.

@BDJeff Be sure to check the lug nuts that came with those wheels. The original lug nuts have a long straight shoulder (no taper except at the tip) that makes them a PITA to remove and replace. (use anti-seize thread lube) Frequently, the originals were replaced with lug nuts that were not designed for those wheels.

@BDJeff Notice that the ones that are available are 5 screw. Your wheels, being 4 bolt, use the 4 screw centers.

I'm looking for the centers on line. The centers that came on my old wheels look identical to US Mags Part # 1002-20. I'll keep looking for a 4 screw model.

The wheels that came on my early 71 were made by US Mags. 3" hole, screw spacing is 3 5/8". Your wheels look the same as mine. US Mags is still around. You might try them for replacement centers. Good luck.

Check the master cylinder too. Pull the rubber boot off the end down by the pedal and see if it's wet inside. IMO, it would be a good idea to replace both cylinders now. In the past, when I've replaced one, the other cylinder went bad within a few months. They're usually the same age.

I agree with Patcon. A 3' piece of elec. wire with alligator clips is useful for adding temporary grounds to circuits. Frequently the problem vanishes with the addition of the temp. ground.

Those are very nice looking welds for a first attempt. Keep up the good work.

Welcome Tony. Sorry for the loss of your Uncle but congratulations on your inheritance. We'd all like to see some pics of your 260 and hear your plans for it.

I'm almost afraid to ask if you both have discovered that there's a lot of the hood out front that you can't see sitting in the seat? I found out the hard way when I put a little ding in the front bumper of my first Z.

@zbert1 Received your address. The clips look pretty good. Not perfect but very usable. I'm tied up today. They'll go into the mail tomorrow.

I'm removing the body tabs with the spring clips still attached. I was afraid I'd screw up the spring clips removing them. zbert1 can do that. Looking at the spring clips, they kind of remind me of the clips inside the early hatches. Any possibility they were the same part?

@zbert1 I'll remove them today. PM me your address. No charge. Pay it forward.

Imo, if the carbs are in relatively good shape (throttle shafts not severely worn) and they're just dirty, there's no reason to have someone rebuild them for you. Purchase rebuild kits and the video "Just SU's" from ZTherapy and have a go at them yourself. It doesn't take a long time at all. They're EASY to refresh and it will be a great opportunity to learn about them.

Do you need all four clips? I have a late 71 that I can remove the clips from. Looks like there are two spot welds per clip to be drilled out for removal. Let me know.

Quarter window weatherstrip. Zcarsource.com.

Cliff, My father-in-law used to distill any of his home made wine (that was too terrible to drink) into something that he called Brandy. He rigged up a still on his kitchen stove. I remember it tasting more like Tequila than Brandy. As it turned out the "Brandy" was quite useful. Took some hunting one year. Used some of it as internal anti-freeze but used most of it as degreaser on my hands after emergency Jeep repairs in the snow. You must have some greasy parts that could use some cleaning. BTW, remember to use safety precautions (gloves, eye protection, Haz-Mat suit, etc.) when handling it. Happy New Year!

Wire brush and spray all the exhaust bolts with penetrating oil first. The exhaust is the worst part of the trans. removal, IMO. Also, if you're using jack stands and the trans. is coming out from under the car, be sure the car is high enough to clear the bell housing. Be sure you change the pilot bearing in the flywheel. You can use a bearing puller or use bread, a socket and extension and a hammer. I went with the bread option on an 81 RX7 recently when the bearing puller failed. Works great.

Zinc rich paint works great on old discolored galvanized metal.

Great stuff. Gypsy, Crow and Tom Servo would love it.

PM sent to Newzee about late 71 "rolling chassis in stock."

Throw that amount of horsepower into a Z and you'll be chasing the weakest link in the drive train. When you correct that weak link, you'll find the next one, and the next one, etc.

We don't know your son's age but I would pass along this good advice that the salesman told me when I got my first Z. Take it easy for the first six months of driving a Z until he gets to know the car's limitations and his. Most serious accidents in a Z happen in the first six months. If he has the "need for speed", local clubs often have novice racing driver training courses that include classroom and track time.

Will it run on starting fluid? My first guess is lack of fuel in the float bowls.