Mark Maras

@siteunseen, @Dadsun Have you tried easing the choke on during the flutter? Over the years I found the choke to be an easy method for checking lean mixtures.

They were very common here back in the day. Most people stuck them inside one of the bumpers.

Is it a magnetic mount, It looks like a "Hide-a-Key" box from back in the 60s and 70s.

Or Lilith.

I've always thought the 240 looked much like the 68-73 Ferrari 365 GTB/4 (Daytona). If we looked long and hard we could probably find someone who thinks Goertz designed that too.

A few years back @rossiz grew tired of screwing around with his EFI and installed SUs on his 280. It ran great and no more tow trucks after the change until an accident brought another one.

A looong time ago we used to pull the spring from one of the centrifugal advance weights to get full advance at lower RPMs..

I'd be tempted to submerge the cap or the o-ring (if it's removable without destroying it) in wintergreen oil to soften it.

Did you get it off?

I believe you have to give it a bit of a twist to remove it. I'm not sure about the twist part. I've only worked on 4 screw carbs. @siteunseen

Hopefully they aligned the dowel pin holes in both parts.

After the mech. pump.

If it's lean and stumbling, ease the choke on, it will improve. If it's rich it will run the same or worse.

I'd adapt a clothes dryer vent hose (duct tape and something else) to the exhaust and vent hose fittings into a wall , window or door. I'd also buy a carbon monoxide detector. Many years of welding has taught me not to vent the exhaust into an oncoming breeze. Some of it will find it's way back in. venting to the side or down wind is best.

The landau top contact adhesive will work well. That's what our local upholsterer uses. I used 3M headliner adhesive in an aerosol can. Good stuff. One can was all I needed for a Corolla headliner. Don't go cheap with the foam. It's the part that fails after years of heat and cold.

If I wasn't going to fix them myself, I'd remove them and take them to a mechanic to adjust the floats rather than risk a fire. My last resort would be drive it with a fire extinguisher handy.

I doubt that I would have recognized Cody five years later although I see he still likes to pose with his legs crossed.

Nothing wrong with having the axles balanced but because they turn approximately 3 1/2 times slower than the drive shaft I've never experienced or heard of a balance problem with them. Driveshaft balance problems are very common however.

A few things can cause the problem. Fuel pressure too high (I like 3.5 psi), floats set too high or crud in the needle and seat valves.

Chemically treat, remove and paint any and all rust spots when I first see them.

I haven't gotten one.

There shouldn't be any detectable slop in the u-joints in any direction.

Or if it's Lucas, it's a smoke fitting.

I agree. Over the years it always seemed that the lock nuts were tighter than I had tightened them. I found that just giving the wrench a good bump (not enough to hurt) with my hand would secure them.

I believe they're closed cell foam. An easy test would be weigh it, submerge it in fuel for a day or two and reweigh it.