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Mark Maras

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Everything posted by Mark Maras

  1. Nope, I don't agree. maximum power is achieved with the proper fuel to air ratio. Richening the mixture will only result in more power if the mixture was too lean. There's many causes for that. Vacuum leak, float level too low, etc. Here's a shade tree mechanic's tip for determining if the mixture is too lean with SU's. At normal operating temperature, try gradually adding choke to the engine while going up a slight grade. If the mixture is too lean, you'll feel the burst of power. I can't give you an opinion on the plug in the picture. It looks, to me, like an old carboned up plug that was kinda cleaned. The black uncleaned part looks like a rich mixture. The top white section and electrodes look extremely lean. What is the history of that plug? The porcelain should be a light brown (tan) color if the mixture is close.
  2. You don't mention how well it is running with the temporary fuel source.
  3. Yes, you can use the plug color to tune the mixture. It's an old school method but still useful for a daily driver. The plugs should be a light brown (tan) color, not dark brown. What color were the plugs at 2 1/2 turns and why did you go to 3 1/2 turns?
  4. I see a lot more opportunity in that collection than I see depression. I could spend a day looking and letting my mind fantasize about the possibilities. Oh I wish I were in the land of cotton, Old times there are not forgotten. Look away, Look away, Look away DixZie Land.
  5. Put the trans in neutral. Otherwise you'll be turning the rest of the drive train along with the engine. The engine should turn over relatively easy without the plugs and in neutral.
  6. Oh ye of little faith. He does state that the car is "RUST FREE". Don't you trust him?
  7. Wheee shared an excellent method to clean the sending unit. Remove it from the tank and soak it in straight CLR for 24 - 48 hours. I had one that was totally crudded up and wouldn't move. That one needed 48 hours. It came out clean and in good working condition.
  8. Thanks for the reminder, I remember it well. I'm a bit surprised it's still there, considering it's out in the open next to a busy road. Probably has been a lot of people bugging him or her about it. The owner obviously has an emotional attachment to the car, which is totally understandable. As much as I love searching for and finding treasure, I'm becoming one of those old farts who has more projects to complete than time, health and money may allow. I know I'm not alone. However, should anyone need assistance with evaluating Z's or parts in this area, I'd be glad to help. I love looking thru collectors treasures.
  9. Store them away. They'll gain value just like all the other parts we used to think were near worthless. Radios, ashtrays, etc.
  10. I've pressed the early ones out with a vice and sockets. It's pretty crowded when it's pushed together but it will come out. I like the idea of cutting out the spider first.
  11. Welcome. tell us more about your new toy. Vin #, history, future plans, pics too.
  12. Welcome. You've found home. At this club you don't have a problem. Over committing behavior is considered normal here and maybe even a goal. I'm curious about your story of finding and buying six Z's in one year. Can anyone out there meet or beat six Z's in a year? I'm guessing that you're single, or married and in deep trouble or you have a wonderful wife. In that order.
  13. I'll have to credit my wife with that idea. She saw me struggling to carve round holes with a razor knife. I had every geometric shape except a circle. I got "that look" from her as she suggested that I could pretty up those holes? with a paper punch. I hadn't thought about a brass fitting. I've used small pieces of tubing sharpened on one end in the past too. Another thought on gasket making. (cereal boxes are my go to) The tapping with a hammer works very well but if there isn't room to tap, one can put a light coating of grease on the surface. Press the gasket material against the greasy surface. Remove the gasket and trim anything that's not greasy.
  14. A paper punch works great for clean holes when making gaskets.
  15. Spray bars can "look" good when, in fact, they can be severely restricted with sludge. I soak them in lacquer thinner for 24 hrs, shake it carefully and use compressed air to force everything out. Repeat until the thinner is clean. A torch tip cleaner is useful for removing the crud from the spray holes.
  16. It sounds like the next driving experience for your nephew is going to be road rash. Better he learns cornering now rather than when his favorite Uncle gives him a Z.
  17. If the body is sound and the rust is truly minimal (check under the battery), it's definitely worth looking into. Sounds like a decent Z to refresh.
  18. The chain must have looked pretty ugly too. Shoddy workmanship.
  19. What weight oil are you using in the Su's? I believe the factory recommended 20 w. I had good luck with ATF.
  20. Here in the Pacific Northwest, I'd set it up in the wet.
  21. The only time I had one leak was a 56 ford pickup. The owner wanted to reuse the old (still pliable) gasket. I thought it might leak without sealant but gave it a try. It leaked. Finally got it sealed after multiple messy, frustrating attempts. If I ever had to seal another one, I'd pull the glass. New gasket and new glass "shouldn't" need sealant unless there's distortion in the body.
  22. Are there any cam specifications on the back of the tag?
  23. I would try the SM's. They're reported to run richer from 2500 rpm all the way up and are possibly better suited to larger bore engines (2.8) and free breathing engines. They don't seem to work well on stock 2.4's. I'd also give Ztherapy a call and ask for their opinion.
  24. If the pistons were removed, is it possible that the o-rings (not an o at all) were installed backward? They are directional. The bevel is designed to allow the pad to pull back from the disc just enough to maintain pad to disc contact. The slight contact is to keep the discs dry in wet conditions.
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