Mark Maras

Ditto on the new studs, lock washers and nuts. You'll also want to coat all the threads with anti-seize. None has been used on the old studs in your pic. (Shame, Shame) Another possibility to ensure there's no trouble with removal in the future would be brass nuts on steel (maybe stainless) studs. Before you tear it apart, how about clamping the side of the flange with the broken stud with vise grips and listen to the degree of change. Should be easy to reach from above.

Did a little on line digging for info. It appears that Mustangs and Jeeps at, one time, used the T-5. The jeep reverse switch for the NWC T5 trans, APPEARS to be very similar to the one on the left in your pic. Didn't research the Mustang trans switch yet. Perhaps a trip to the parts store with switch in hand will come up with a match. I hope the Jeep switch works for you. They're only $10.00 - $15.00.

I think the water will evaporate immediately. I use a 3' - 4' piece of garden hose as a stethoscope. It's a very effective method for sourcing noises. You'll be able to get one end of the hose down by the gasket while remaining clear of the hot manifold.

Sorry to hear of your misfortune. It does remind me of Rossiz's troubles with his fuel injection. He had multiple outings with his daughter that ended prematurely. Not to worry, it's just part of the "sorting out" process.

If the trans. case number is D3202, the OEM switch part number is C200506P01. Rockauto.com says they have them. Google the part number.

Beautiful picture, on many levels. The flight jacket was a nice touch.

Checking my stock. Early 71 - single mount. Early 74 - dbl. mount.

Or a trick motor driven rotisserie that would slowly barrel roll the car. In all reality tho, I do love your attention to detail. Changing a sows ear into a silk purse comes to mind.

A volt-ohm meter is the best tool. Check for switched voltage and repeat turning the key to verify reliability. Or unplug it and do the same thing by reading continuity (ohms).

I'd check the ignition switch.

Did he give you THAT LOOK (that I know so well) before he walked away?

I believe you'd have to cut the lower end and weld in a piece to lengthen the shifter.

Old school method of checking the mixture is the color of the spark plugs. Simple and relatively accurate.

Pushing the car back and forth will frequently break them loose. You're fortunate the car has been garaged.

I'd do a compression check, just to put my mind at ease.

How much pressure are you going to use?

Way cool You realize, of course, that the orders for a kit are going to be rolling in. How long did you sit and watch it work. I would have cracked a cold one to fully enjoy the experience.

I once had a stock 621 PU that did the same thing.

Ditto on the blockage. Remove the inner panel carefully, especially if it's cold. They can crack when flexing them. (voice of experience) Heating the panel first with a hair dryer is a good idea. I would put the car on stands or a lift rack and inspect the fuel system front to rear for leaks BEFORE I dealt with the blockage. The blockage is a PITA but fuel leakage is hazardous to your health AND your Z's.

I don't think you're going to solve this with one fix. This is the type of problem that you'll have to chip away at. I think the blower is a good idea but it may take more than just that. Two pumps are recommended for a heat soak problem. Is your new exhaust close to the fuel lines in the tunnel?

I agree, I've noticed that as the muffler deteriorated over the years the popping would increase. IMO, If one wants a sweet sounding Z, one will have to put up with some popping on deceleration. Personally, I don't mind it as long as it's not excessive.

@jalexquijano, I'm still gathering heat soak puzzle pieces and trying to fit them together. Nissan says that fuel percolation occurs between the f. pump and the carbs and will cause an over rich condition. Vapor lock, on the other hand, occurs on the suction side of the pump. This got me to thinking about heat sources on the suction side of the pump. Taking into consideration all the work you've done under the hood to stop the problem, is it possible that the fuel is actually getting over-heated, in traffic, in the fuel lines under the car in the tunnel? My 240 tunnel used to get very, very hot, in traffic, in the summer. I can't imagine that a new exhaust with larger pipes would help either. BTW, I don't remember if you still have a mechanical pump along with your electric one (both are supposed to help the problem) To anyone, Was the fuel line location under the tunnel ever changed through the years? I'm still gathering puzzle pieces.

Yeah, it looks like a fan. Probably used to dissipate exhaust fumes. I wonder how well the modification sealed? On second thought, if that pic is from the 70's, the fumes could be from anything.

I didn't notice that. It does look "made to order" for twin hitachi's.

http://xenonzcar.com/s30/files/1973 240z 1974 260z fuel system modifications.pdf Submitted by ZedHead (and maybe others) a while back. Many thanks. The factory printed this in 75. It has some history of the problem on 240 and 260 Zs. While I find it very interesting, I also have to keep in mind that the problem seemingly got worse the more solutions they threw at it. They never did solve heat soak and it continued into the 280's. IMO, the answer lies in the past. The early 4 screw carbs, manifold, possible differences in the steel fuel rail (2line-3line), etc. The fact is, the early Z's rarely, if ever, had this problem using a lone mechanical pump. But, I guess heat soak must have been a problem somewhere, or else they wouldn't have tried to fix it. Even now, there seems to be more complaints of this problem with 3 screw carbs even with the water passage blocked.