Mark Maras

That might do the trick. Google says that motor oil boils at 572` F.

If you push the choke off too soon, the engine will stumble (mixture is too lean) when you accelerate or it will die at idle. Keep in mind the choke can be used in any position as the engine warms up. Ideally, one gives the engine only as much choke as it needs during the warm-up cycle. As the engine gradually warms, the choke can be gradually pushed off.

Unless you're prepared to pay top dollar, there will always be rust to deal with. Some rusted areas are easier to deal with than others. Flat panels (floor pan patch) are relatively easy but the compound curve of the fender well under the battery is a tough one to replicate. Also, when you get into the edges of the panels where they overlap adjacent panels and are welded to other panels, things get very difficult. The rust just keeps going and going. Those two rusted areas on the 280 are a good example.

Great way to start the day. A big cup of coffee and your (audio porn) video. It sounds fantastic. Well done. Congratulations.

Ditto

I bought a whole (-engine & trans) 71 Z at a private wrecking yard a couple of years ago. The receipt says $500.00 - parts. No title and they pulled all the ID tags except the stamp on the firewall.

And $100.00 of that is dash cap.

The fact that it doesn't run well when it's cold or under a load could indicate a lean mixture. Might be a good idea to install a temporary fuel pressure gauge so you can cross that off your list of gremlins. When it's idling and missing, have you been able to isolate the problem to any one cylinder? How do the plugs look?

How long does it have to sit and cool down? before it will start again?

I'd install the 5-speed and SAVE and LABEL EVERYTHING that is removed in the swap. Easy for the next owner to put it back to orig if that is their goal. I'm betting that the next owner will leave the 5-speed in and he or she will have the seed (auto. spare parts) to start the ever growing stash of parts that goes with owning a Z.

Take some pics of the inside. Hopefully there's nothing more than a little clean oil.

If it's OEM, someone will buy it.

The black canister looks like a fancy catch can.

Where does the "somewhere else" lead to? Just want to be sure someone hasn't plugged the end.

Thanks everyone. When I think about being 68- Nope, really, I can't imagine being 68. Wasn't even used to being 67 before. Must be someone else. Can't be me. And yet the calendar says it's true. I'm an old fart now. Oh yeah, my once virile body (which has since gone bad) reminds me now and then of it's age. The mind however refuses to believe. My Dad chuckled when he shared with me (at the age of ninety) that he still was twenty one in his mind when he saw a good looking young woman. The apple didn't fall far from the tree. BTW Cliff, No worries, I've always been a lover not a fighter. And technically it's 9 3/4. Maturity is highly overrated. Stay young. Thanks again Mark

Another option? One intrepid fellow back in the early 1900's had a problem with water in his alcohol fuel. He ran the alcohol fuel through a canister of calcium carbide. The water in the fuel reacted with the calcium carbide making acetylene gas, which he piped into the air intake. It worked so well that he had to introduce more water into the fuel to raise the octane level. But that only increased the acetylene. BTW, the early engines were called explosion engines. Some even tried gunpowder.

Oregon's farmers are in their glory days. Keep Oregon green.

A few moth balls will prevent rodents from moving in.

That floor would usually be described as "surface rust". Technically, not a lie. Just not the whole truth.

Does the clutch pedal feel normal when it's depressed. In other words, nice and smooth all the way to the floor? Also, You mentioned it usually stalls on a downshift. What other times has it happened?

We've run this problem up the flag pole in the past. It's not uncommon. First and foremost be sure the clutch is releasing all the way. If the clutch pedal releases and engages the clutch down close to floor, the hydraulics may be suspect. If hydraulics can be ruled out, the next suspected cause and or cure could be gear oil. Many opinions on which one is best. In my notes from the last conversation, I have A/C Delco Friction Modified Gear Oil (recommended by @Zup) as the one that I'm going to try next. I'd try that before the dreaded trans tear down. Let us know the results if you try it.

How much farther are you turning the mixture wheels past 2.65 to get the plugs to foul. It sounds like you're making progress. 2.65 is in the ballpark. Personally, i'd start leaning it out a little more (2.5, then 2.375, 2.25 etc.) to see the results. How do your plugs look at 2.65? Any particular reason that your mechanic hasn't set the valves yet, hot or cold? I rarely ever set the valves when the engine was cold unless the valve train had been apart. The warm valve setting is the final step.

If your Miata is reliable, it will be your daily driver. At least for a while.

When the CB antenna was pointed out, I assumed your handle would have been "JayBird".

I missed the CB antenna. It really dates the pictures. That was a big antenna to be on a car. Powerful CB to back it up?