Mark Maras

I'm thinking lightweight parts. Early ash trays would be a great place to start.

Yup. That's what I was thinking. BUT if one did score a lot of parts and sold a few, the beer could be a business expense. Even a years worth of beer (or whatever) would be a minor expense when compared to the value of trailers full of parts. Especially anywhere east of the Rocky Mts. BTW, I had been fairly successful in ignoring the "voices" lately. This conversation has brought forth yet another bout of SchiZophrenia in me. I do miss the thrill of seeking Z treasure.

I've never tried that. It's possible that a short case would break the ice. Might be best to find out what he drinks on the first trip and leverage your way in with beer (or whatever) on the second trip. Beware of establishing a precedent. As long as you keep coming back, he's getting free beer.

Having some past success with this type of challenge, I've found that it's a two step process. The first is building trust, common ground and friendship, if possible. The usual hoarder has been harassed by family, neighbors, city and the county. In spite of all that , he holds on to his goodies. Understand that he has an emotional attachment to his collection. Very few people have ever admired his collection. That's the key. Don't mention buying anything at this point in time but finding out if there's anything he needs is always a good idea. Money doesn't usually have much influence on hoarders. You're there to admire his collection and listen to him share all his plans for everything he has. No need to remind him that five lifetimes wouldn't be enough. He knows that. You will also want to share your projects with him too. He'll start to see your need for parts before you bring it up. Second step is to get him to understand that he would feel good seeing some of his stash on the road. Use his emotional attachment in your favor. Money may have some influence on this but it usually isn't the deciding factor. He has to FEEL that his parts will be going to a better home than he can provide. He also deep down is afraid that all his stash will be tossed upon his demise and he doesn't want that to happen. The situation is similar to owning a valuable (to me, anyway) part that I don't want to get rid of but if a friend needed it I'd let him have it. Don't rush either of these two steps. Deal in truth. Trust and friendship must be built up to have success. I wish I lived closer and could join the "bring out your dead" team. I love looking at collections of "vintage tin" and talking with the collectors. Best of luck.

Perhaps I've over simplified the pcv system in my own mind. Thought it was to relieve excess pressure in the crankcase and under the valve cover caused by leaking piston rings (usually the culprit). In the old days the oily air was vented out of the crankcase down towards the road.. Later a catch can was added to catch the oil. No pcv valves back then. I believe pcv valves were added when the crankcase vapor was plumbed back into the air intake to be burned. I assumed that the size of the valve was related to cubic inch displacement, and a vertical pcv didn't need a spring. I don't doubt that some of these assumptions could use some tweaking but what I really don't understand is how the pcv system can affect engine vacuum. Being old school, (carbs) I'm picturing the pcv leading into the back of the air filter. Were some of these systems plumbed into the intake manifold? That's the only way I can think of that would affect engine vacuum. We used to pull the oil cap (and pcv valve) when the engine was running to check for excess crank case pressure when looking at used cars. Thanks in advance for schooling me.

That's my gut feeling too. @gwri8 Previously you said that RedBird shut down as if the key was turned off. No stutter or misfiring from the engine. When it restarted did it run fine? @Redwing Is there any regularity in the dying. I'm thinking that it's occurred often enough that you may be getting a feel for when it will happen? Does it ALWAYS occur when the engine is warm? Or when it's been raining?

Thanks for the advice. Jai should be very satisfied with the Exedy 06009. Sounds like a better product for very little more cost. I'll pass the recommendation on to Jai if she doesn't see this.

My guess is coolant. Coolant in a(?) cylinder could account for the strange sound when trying to start it. Especially after it's been sitting. After it has set overnight, I'd pull all the spark plugs and turn it over with the starter. I'm betting that at least one cylinder will spit coolant out of the spark plug hole. You may find coolant running out as soon as the plug is removed.

RedBird update. I've been looking at clutch kits for Jai. Does anyone have a recommendation on what brand is good for a daily driver? Partsgeek has a LuK kit $90.28 (includes shipping). On-line reviews are pretty good. Has anyone used this brand in the past? Beck-Arnley is a well known brand but will run 40-50% more. Greg has given Jai the name of a trusted mechanic that will do the job for $250.00 and Jai supplies the parts. Great news. Any and all opinions are appreciated. Thanks. Mark

As I've followed the ongoing story of RedBird's gremlins, I've often wished I could just be there to get my grubby mitts on them, as I'm sure a lot of you have too. Several members have generously donated their time and parts to help out and continue to do so. There is an ongoing problem of a dying engine, only to restart again in 10 minutes. The most urgent problem to be dealt with is a slipping clutch. This repair should be made ASAP, as she's now driving borrowed transportation. To my knowledge a 76 doesn't have an adjustable rod and this clutch has been slipping for at least a year. The answer, it would seem, is a new clutch. Jai, Redbird's soulmate and daily driver, is on fixed income and has limited mobility. RedBird is her second Z, RedWing being the first. (RedWing is currently being restored by a member) Jai has driven a Z most of her adult? life. Jai could use all of our help getting RedBird back on the road.. I can't be there, like most of you, so I thought that we could help, from afar, by starting a "go fund me" for repairs. My guess is a "clutch job" will run around $500.00, give or take. A little extra to sort out the other gremlins would be a real blessing. Not a vast sum of money, unless one doesn't have it. We can transfer our donations thru PayPal using Jai's email address. onesupercatmensa@gmail.com. This is a golden opportunity to help out a fellow? Z owner and feel good about ourselves too. A real WIN, WIN for all. Jai and I will keep a running total to let everyone know how we're doing. Thank you all. Mark

Jai Remembering back to the times it has shut down, is there anything similar in the failures? A smell, a feel, a sound change,? Similar condition? Going uphill, downhill, a few minutes or miles after starting out, the same stretch of road? How often has it failed a few miles down the road after filling the tank, for instance? Here's one more specific. Has she always shut down when accelerating? Possibly indicating fuel starvation. @gwri8 When the engine shut down, was there ANY symptom of rough running or dropping of revs just before the engine died or was it more like someone just turned off the ignition? I'm talking about the last second before it died.

You can verify the float level by removing the suction chambers and pistons. (Be careful that you don't bend the needles. I temporarily set the pistons on the cowl with the needles protruding through one on the slots.) With the use of a good light, look down into the hole in the center. You will be able to see the top of the fuel nozzle. It will look like a small washer. The fuel level should be at or very near the top of the nozzle, (washer) with the mixture screws 2 1/2 turns down. Clean everything before reassembling. Let us know what you find.

I'd suspect that the coolant visible along the valve cover gasket is dripping, oozing, etc down onto the exhaust manifold and turning to steam. If you can collect a drop of the suspect liquid, put it on the HOT exhaust manifold. If it steams, it's coolant. If it smokes, it's oil. When I'm looking for the source of leaks, I always start at the rear and trace the leak forward on the car. When I can't find anymore liquid going forward, then I look up. Works every time. In this case the coolant alongside the valve cover is coming from up forward. Likely the thermostat housing or something close to it.

A cheap stethoscope is a great tool but sometimes a bit short. A 3'-4' piece of garden hose (siphon hose) held to an ear will allow one to poke about without kissing a hot engine.

I don't know that for sure. Could be the higher boiling point of water.

Most of my searches were at antique auto clubs. Nothing scientific, just a lot of old timers opinions. There was a consensus of opinion about not doing it if your engine has sensors, catalytic converter, etc. In other words, early 70's cars and older. Your explanation makes sense. The heated fuel lines and or float bowl become a mini refinery, of sorts. Reading the old auto journals from the early 1900's, what fuel to burn in an engine was a heated topic. Gas was expensive and of varying quality. One of the more interesting methods of doctoring poor gas was adding a mix of acetone and water to the gas to up the octane rating and prevent vapor-lock. Reportedly, it worked. They also recommended "When testing the boiling point of your petrol, It's advisable to do it outside."

What are the odds? All three of the 2+2's there have a 2.7.

The consensus of opinion (on line) seems to be that diesel in gas does raise the boiling point and can alleviate vapor lock (according to the "good ol boys). Varying opinions on the negatives but most negs. could be explained by the ratio being used. My question is, could one achieve the same results with 2 cycle oil instead of diesel? The use of two cycle oil mix in a Wankel is what got me thinking about it.

Here's an interesting article on the 1908 Union (SU) Carburettor. "The Motor Car Journal" May 2nd 1908 https://books.google.com/books?id=KGIfAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA212&lpg=PA212&dq=union+carburettor&source=bl&ots=36OhmQgNzw&sig=75Ti_6Y_S25oSwLwUudl9WYQoaQ&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjXipn438TRAhVBsVQKHbPkDT0Q6AEIQjAJ#v=onepage&q&f=true

These days, any Z with minimal rust is looking more desirable. IMO, one could pour far more than $8500.00 into a Z just to bring it up to this one's quality.

Agree with takhli, mechanical pump is all you need. IMO, a thorough cleaning of the carbs and basic tuning procedures should be all you need. @rossiz has SU's on his 280. I don't remember him changing nozzles or needles. No need for larger fuel lines.

Jalex Have you removed the fuel line insulation yet?

It was a Washington thing back then. Dealers had a pile of plates for temporary use.

One thing at a time, remember? A small implement of destruction (side cutters) and ten minutes is all it will take to remove the insulation from the fuel rail. We're all waiting for the results. We'll get to the fuel rail replacement in due time.

I've run mine without a thermostat. I don't remember it overheating without it, I remember low temps in the engine and heater. It was one of those out in the boondock repairs, a long way from anywhere in eastern Oregon. Basic tools, a short case box for a gasket, beer from the short case for coolant and the need to get to another beer store and then a parts store. Found the beer, drove it back to Portland, sans thermostat. It turned out to be a memorable trip. Not something I would recommend but it beats the hell out of running it with a thermostat that's stuck closed. No damage to the engine at all.