Costjo

Nice!

Thanks. I just bought a passenger panel. I still might need a drivers panel.

Thanks for the info. I am on a budget and would like a lot of other things done so, I think in my best interest would be to take my time and not get a new one so I returned it. I am taking my time on repairs and sometimes get carried away on purchases. I will probably just buy a lower patch panel from the zstore for around $50 for one side and I think I can fix other side with a piece of metal welded in. David did give me a great deal. I am very happy with the car and he was very friendly and helpful on this purchase. I think he let a little too much salt get to it but it is manageable. I will post some progress pics soon.

Thats good to know. They are available by the way but I just cancelled an order for one. $417 shipped. I think I am going to keep my original and get the bottoms welded for now. Or like you said, find older good condition ones. Thanks, Joe

$300 plus $200 shipping no thanks. If they shipped to local Nissan for free might be worth it. I guess nobody has any experience with aftermarket ones.

Blue, Which Nissan sells them? I called locally and they cant get them. Just spoke with MSA they dont sell Nissan fenders and the one they did sell they were having design issues so they dont sell any at the moment.

My front fenders are toast on the bottom mount points. Im trying to decide If I should get new aftermarket panels or just buy lower fender and repair the original. Does anyone have bad experience with newer aftermarket panels from like black dragon or whoever? I'm told they might not line up right and arent good quality. What is best option from your experience doing either or? Thanks, Joe

Blue does it again! Its a pleasure having him around Z or not.

Check the small banjo filters right at float bowl. They could be clogged up. #4 in first picture Dismantling - SU Carburetters

Blue comes through again!!! He came over and tuned my car better than ever. I thought it was pretty good but, now shes tweaked to perfection thanks to Philip. His knowledge of these cars is amazing. I felt like I was in 240z training class. Thanks again for your time here. It was great meeting you and pleasure to hangout with you.

Don't clean those nails yet Philip. We got more work for you down here in Boca. Tuning time!

I want to thank Blue for the help today. He was very helpful. We didn't have any issues whatsoever thanks to him. We also took out the gas tank. It was a great day even though it rained like crazy with tornado warnings. Thanks for all the great tips posted here too.

Thanks for all the hood tips! We are trying to setup a live cam but having trouble with port forwarding on this router maybe doing it wrong. Will post a link here If we can get it up today. check back later Im sure when Blue gets here today he can set it up for us. So far last night, just disconnected a few things like wires, fuel hoses,alternator, linkage and removed su's. Have rusted bolts sitting in evaporust. Today we will be draining tranny and engine oil, removing exhaust that is super rusted looking,removing radiator then possibly taking out engine if all goes well.

Checklist Buying 3/4 ton load leveler. jacking up back end Will the acetone tranny fluid mix work better than deep creep seafoam? Pencil mark hood hinges, taking photos, ziplock baggies, painters tape, labatt blue how many? following what Jeff G and Zed Head said Blue to the rescue see you Sunday

Thanks for all the great tips you guys. Starting to sound more difficult. I think the hoist is a fold up one, hopefully not. I hope Blue can come up that would be awesome! PM sent. I'm all ears for anymore advice :nervous:

Getting ready to help a buddy remove his 1970 240z l24 all original engine. Anybody in Melbourne,Florida area for help or any pointers,tips,tools type of beer to make our lives easier since its first time pulling a motor. Well for me I pulled a 77 trans am motor in high school about 30 years ago but my brain cells don't work like they used to. We are going to tackle it this weekend for Eiji to rebuild for him. Thanks, Joe

Anybody know good welders in South Florida? Preferably Broward county

Here is video with new header/intake gasket cold start choke on http://youtu.be/vwzoQit6C3s

Here is a video of my header/intake gasket leak. I replaced gasket and all is good now no tapping sound noise. I will try and post update video with it replaced when I get a chance. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OmdCuJLYtc&feature=youtu.be

Got the hose

Figured it out. Its 8mm but 5/16 will work.

What is the correct fuel hose size going from tank to G2 fuel filter then to airtek electric pump then to supply line. I have 1/4 going from supply line under hood to the fuel rail. I searched everywhere and cant find the answer. Right now I have 3/8 which is too big on those 3 sections.

Here is what I did to the large manifold (yokes) spacer washer. I grinded half to make it level pressure for both header and intake because the header from MSA was thinner than the intake.

Yes, I did put the short end in the head but with the large spacer washer on the header/intake holes there isnt much left over plus I didnt hand tighten the studs in I used 8 ft lbs with double nut because didnt get an answer quick enough. I probably should of waited. I was able to put lock washers on the top 6 for the intake and on the ends of header I believe. What about using something like this 8Mm X 1.25 Copper Exhaust Lock Nuts Uses 12Mm Wrench - Set Of 8 or this https://www.belmetric.com/ncf8x12-copper-flange-nut-p-189.html?zenid=5pqdalupf8j63msv7pldqra8f6&cPath=3_51_53

I didn't know the studs were supposed to be finger tightened. I found wrong information that the stud torque was supposed to be 25 ft lbs. My first one I almost stripped out the head. I had to slowly back it out and thread it again. I did the second stud the same but didn't want to risk pulling it out so its in pretty far into head but enough for me to get a nut on it so I left it. I put the nuts at 8 ft lbs only on the ones the torque wrench could reach and used open end on the rest. How often after initial tightening should I check torque again? Is it possible to get some sort of swivel socket and get all with torque wrench? What sequence do I tighten them in? I did the circle sequence.