socorob

I found on another forum where someone posted this in 2014 where they called ToyoCom, which I think is now Epson about the crystal: Thanks a lot, I gave them a call and they only sell in bulk, $300 minimum order. Wouldn't answer any questions. https://www.4starelectronics.com/mfgs/Toyo-Distributors.html This was the website he said he called. I was hoping there would be a source for some old stock somewhere to rebuild these, because I like having an accurate clock and like the look of the stock clock. This clock I took apart doesn't appear to ever had lube anywhere, unless it totally evaporated and disappeared, so I'm not sure if these clocks used any lube from the factory. I tried running it with all the gears off except for the 1 drive gear, and that doesn't turn. I don't believe the coil could fail without it being noticeable.

https://www.worldwayelec.com/pro/cs-elec/hd44001/4250271 https://www.1sourcecomponents.com/availability/HITACHI--HD44001.htm https://fr.excesschip.com/product/details/hd44001 https://de.excesschip.com/product/details/hd44001 These are the only things I was able to find online for the 44001. Not affiliated with any of these, so click on them at your own risk. The top place shows they have some with a minimum order of 100, but not sure how accurate that is. I couldnt find a datasheet on these, so not sure if they would need to be programmed or not.

I'm fairly certain the problem is either the crystal or the HD44001. I have voltage everywhere, get about a 4 volt drop across the resistor, and the little gear still doesn't spin. This was my spare clock I had pulled out of a junkyard years ago. The one in my car sometimes holds time, sometimes loses lots of time, depending on how it feels. I was hoping to try to see if these were possible to rebuild, and then just swap the clocks and do the same to the other after. I think its a metal resistor, but not 100% certain on that.

Thanks for the post, I'm trying to get a spare clock working now. My 1978 quartz clock started losing time last summer. I had a spare, so took it apart to see what could be changed. There are only 5 components on the circuit board as follows: 1. 16v 100uF capacitor (Nippon chemi con CEO4W) 2. 200 ohm resistor. (Cant figure out the exact specs. It has 200 ohms and either I or 1 JL6 printed on it and its green. Its about 11 or 12 mm long, which from read I have read may mean its a 1 watt??? and 3 or 4 mm wide. Under it on the board is printed R for resistor presumably.) Not sure what kind of resisitor it is. 3. Next to that is what I'm guessing is a Zener Diode as it has ZD printed on the board next to it, and has a band on one end. Its white with a red band and has either LX or X7 written on it. 4. I think a crystal oscillator labelled 4194.5 TOYO COM 7C4. It has XTA printed on the board next to it. 5. A 16 pin chip that I think the symbol on it may be hitachi? HD44001 7K 33. The capacitors are all over Amazon, so not a problem to find. Does anyone know if any of these other parts can be sourced anywhere? I would like to replace with new as much as possible while I have it apart. Thanks.

The pushrod V6s in the small SUVs are made in their Shanghai plant. And they do have problems, do a little search on the internet, the 60degreeV6 people try to avoid those.

Also it doesn't seem like the 78s came with the long strip that's #2 in the black dragon picture. After looking at 2 different 78 s that appeared like the fenders were never removed, neither one had it. I guess it was because at that point nissan was using the full size inner fender liner?

I used a cone shape stone in my dremel. Thats what the guy recommended when I called to order the dash repair stuff. It gave a good controllable cut. Make sure you go past the end of cracks and round them to make it a little less likely to crack. I used a DA on very slow speed to sand the urethane supply padded dash filler. This stuff is way too rubbery, it takes a while to knock it down by hand if you get it too thick, which I did. Still can't understand why people use something to fix bumpers on dashes when there is something made for specifically repairing dashes. Urethane supply recommended a flat or satin vinyl paint to topcoat it with if you wanted to coat it for some extra UV protection. They said a high gloss coat may give you a lot of glare depending on the car.

I recently did my 280Z dash. It came out pretty good for the 1st time attempting something like this. It looks way better than a dash cap, that's a definite. I used great stuff to fill the cracks, the padded dash filler and flexible dash texture from Urethane Supply Company. Stuff is very flexible, almost like rubber. I Da'd it all smooth. I also used speedhut gauges for the tach and speedo. If you use a 4" DWV cap (it has a flat end, not rounded) from ace hardware, the hole saw for the gauge cutout fits just about perfects inside the cap, so it sort of self centers, to fit the gauge in, you have to file off the knubs on the locking ring for the gauge, then that's a tight fit inside the cap, and the cap OD is about 1/16" smaller than the gauge pod ID, so it all fits together just about perfect. Padded Dash Filler Flextex VT Texture Spray

Not many of the dash toupees seem to fit very well. Mine was way off.

Thanks. I picked up some at ace hardware. They had up to 1/2' thick closed cell. My 78 also has a little piece of foam remnants stuck to the underside of the fender. Its against the top of the fender, all the way in the front by the headlight bucket. Follows the body line where the top turns down 90 degrees to go down the side. Its front to back, about 3/8' wide and maybe 3" long. I guess that was to hold the fender a little off the pinch weld that all the bolts go through?

Tamo, can you post the part number for that? I can't tell from the photo. Also, did you have to put 2 layers high?

What about using all metal filler from the backside on the holes where you can get to the backside? I have my fenders off and all my interior panels out. I want to fill all the holes left over from removing the trim strips. My thinking was to put filler on from the backside so it could be built up a little thicker since it wont be seen, and sand it smooth from the outside. Seems like if it was slightly thicker that it would have less chances of cracking out later? Anyone try this or see any issues with it?

I know this thread is 10 years old, but does anyone know if any of the Scarab airdams or spoilers are repopped anywhere?

I used a needle fitting on the end of my grease gun on both ends and kept turning it back and forth. I ended up getting a lot of grease in there, probably almost 1/2 a tube. This was on a 78. I couldn't find any removable plugs anywhere on it.