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  1. I haven't been back to the garage yet, but it sounds like I should have opened the KYB parts packet. Sorry for the confusion and thanks for the help. So, I was planning to shorten the tubes, but I now realize that would different struts. I guess I could use the front KYB's in the rear and buy some shorter (MR2?) struts for the front. I want to run about 2" lower ride height than stock, have plenty of adjustability, and not bottom the struts during hard driving. Can the parts I have give me that set-up; Ground Control Kit, Eibach 150F, 175R, KYB black stock struts, stock length strut tubes? Thanks!
  2. Thanks, Zed Head. I thought I was supposed to use the old gland nut, so that's probably the issue. So I guess I could still use the GC kit and springs to lower the car (depending on where I weld the new spring perches), but I would risk bottoming the struts under hard driving. I only want to go a couple of inches lower than stock. Should I buy shorter struts and section the tubes, or is that only needed with more extreme low ride heights? Thanks
  3. I just realized I may be missing a cap on the old insert that makes us for at least some of the difference in the body length... I guess I'll look at it all a lot closer tomorrow.
  4. So I went back to the garage and checked the inserts I took out and they are shorter. The pictures shows the new fronts, the old fronts, and the new rears. The new fronts have a significantly longer body that the old front strut inserts. The other pic is what it looks like when I put the new struts in the housing. The caps can't even catch the first thread. Do you think the housing must have been sectioned a long time ago? Everything seemed old and stock, rusty, worn, doesn't really make sense... Thanks
  5. I don't want it much lower than stock ride height, maybe 2" below stock. Does anyone run the GC kit with the stock struts without sectioning the housings? Can that work well without bottoming the struts as long as I don't run too low? If that's a workable option, I still need to figure out why my stock struts don't seem to fit in my stock housings...
  6. Yes, that's the bottom of the tube where the ball joint mounts. I took a pic of it because I thought it looks like it could have been modified. But the more I think about it that seems unlikely. Everything in the suspension was old and stock looking. I am trying to install the front (361002) struts. The rears (361003) are significantly longer. There is a little dish shaped piece on the bottom of the strut. It's almost seems like I could cut those pieces off and they would fit in the tube. Actually it seems like that would reduce the length of the strut insert body by about 1 inch and I need the body to be almost 2 inches shorter. I was going to section the housing, but I guess that only applies if you're using a non-stock, shorter strut? Thanks, John
  7. So I was ready to section my strut housings until I put my one of my front KYB struts into a front housing and found the strut already seems too long for the housing - can't screw in the cap - about 2 inches off. Do I have the wrong shocks (link below)? The bottom of the housing (tube) looks like it might have been modified (picture attached). Does that look factory or is there a chance they've been modified? I appreciate your help. Thanks, John KYB 4 Shocks Datsun Nissan 280z 75 to 78 260z 74 75 Late Check Vin No | eBay
  8. Here's a picture of my wife's 280Z. She wants to keep it stock looking accept for the wheels.
  9. Wow, that's very insightful, and a little scary:) If I'm going through all that money and work, it should look cool, right? Actually, she doesn't want the car lowered, so I would be in big trouble if I did so. I was leaning toward aftermarket coil-overs mostly for the adjust-ability, but also in case I need clearance for the wheels. The tires are here and the wheels arrive tomorrow, so I'll know about clearance soon. My wife drives a Mitsubishi Outlander and I drive a '11 F150 when I'm not driving my '09 370Z that's lowered with 20's:) My other car is a '68 Dodge Dart Convertible, on the ground, pro-touring style, big block. Do you think I have issues? Thanks, John
  10. PS: why the big brake upgrade and what is it, if I may ask? Chas The stock brakes would probably have been fine, but I hate looking at drums and I want the car to stop great for safety reasons. I went with the Silvermine rear disk kit and stage 4 front kit. Thanks guys for the advice. I'll get the rubber bushing kit for sure. That's a great point about all the components, not just the springs. I bought the KYB shock because I read they were less harsh than the Tockico blues and I couldn't pull the trigger on the cost of the Ulliminas. So would the Ground Control kit with 150/175 springs, rubber bushings and KYB shocks make for a firmer than stock, but still reasonably comfortable ride? Does anyone know if the rear 16x8 0 offset wheels and 225/50 tires will cause stock spring clearance issues that may force me into Ground Control or other aftermarket coil-overs? If I don't have a clearance problem, what about the Eibach Pro-Kit springs? Will they offer a semi-comfortable ride and can I still buy them? Thanks again for the help, John
  11. My wife bought a '78 280Z and we're making several upgrades. I have front and rear big brake kits on the way. We went with 16" XXR 513 wheels with the staggered set-up with 16x7 205/55 front and 16x8 225/50 rear. The wheels aren't here yet, so I don't know if I'm going to have spring clearance issues in the back or not (0 offset), but I need to decide what to do about springs. I was going to go with the Ground Control coil-over kit, but here's the problem. It's my wife's car and she doesn't want a harsh ride. She wants it to handle well, but doesn't want the suspension to be too stiff or rough over imperfect pavement. I was told that the coil-overs with any spring choice will make the car rough riding and since I'm planning, sourcing, making the mods, I don't want my wife blaming me for what she will feel is an "uncomfortable" ride. I've tried to read a lot about coil-over spring options and many seem to go with (Eibach) 200/225 front and rear or 250/225 or something like that. I would go with one of those choices if it were my car, but I've read that makes for a very firm ride. I read at least one post where a guy had coil-overs with 150/175 front and rear springs. My question is; would coil-overs necessarily be a bad choice for my wife's car or would a 150/175 provide sufficient ride quality and with decent handling? Your help and advice is much appreciated. Thanks, John

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