Johnny wick

Took some pics of the pump for your reference. Would the position in any way affect the psi?

Question: the float needs to be straight and parallel or can it be bent down to achive the .055 inch gap?

Mark, You are the best! Thanks for your patience! I know some people hate me for opening too much threads but every issue of these cars must be solved logically!

Ill try again. Question any way of gluing the cork gaskets to the float lids? Shall i use RTV silicone or else???

I tried adjusting to this .55 inch measure with a piece of Wood that measures such amount. In order to obtain that measure i had to bllow through the gas blow and bend the float forward until the needle pin touches the bottom of the float shutting the valve. The result was poor as the car loses power at 4 to 5k rpm which means that the floats were set wrongly. Should the gap measure be taken with the float parallel to the float lid, meaning fully straight? Is the .055 inch gap taken from the rim of the float lid or from the bottom of the lid?

Plug 5 (rear carb) and plugs 2 and 3 (front carb). Idle mixture knobs both at 4 turns clockwise. Car gets stuck on 4 to 5k rpm. Needs more fuel at high rpm. Maybe wrong float adjustment.

This is the same pump i have in my car. I was thinking of removing the small metal filter and adapting a fram G3 filter to protect it from the possible dirt on the fuel tank. What do you think?

Ill test it tonight. The engine does work fine with the choke on for 5 mins and once its warmed.

i did noticed that at 2.5 turns clockwise the car shuts down if i dont pull the choke when cold. Ill guess ill have to raise the rpm on both carbs to keep it up.

Well last night a found a .55 inch wooden stick and adjusted the gap between the bottom of the float to the lid by blowing throught the gasoline hole. Lets do a test drive and see what happens.

Nobody convinced me. I just felt i could accomplish the following with 4.3 psi: 1. Dial both fuel mixture knobs of the 3 screws su carbs at 2.5 turns as initial setting without the engine shutting down. 2. Accelerate without any popping or sputtering or stumbling in the carbs intake. Really strange but this is how a feel when i am testing the car.

Chickenman, Thanks for your clear advice given a couple of years ago. I am going again through this same situation with the Airtex 8012s pump. THis is the 4th pump i replace and always due to loss of PSI. Always the same thing. I did noticed that this pump has a Steel filter fastened to it, so even cleaning it will lead to the same loss of PSI?? What if i remove that Steel filter and fasten a fram g3 instead? Right now i am at 3.2 psi and initially when new it measured 4.2 psi. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/atx-e8012s/overview/

These carbs were remanufactured by Ztherapy in 2014. Its the first time we open the float chamber to try to adjust them as the car was presenting issues when i drove during long idle traffic jams. Maybe they got banged during shipping. I am trying to sort this adjustment of the floats but the digital caliper is not helping.

Can you explain the 10 turns method more precisely? Should i warm the car for 2 minutes and then proceed with the 10 turns clockwise or should i just open both float lids and measure the fuel height with caliper stick?

Are you still selling this float synch tool? I have tried setting the 23mm with the hoses and clips i purchased from Bruce but its becoming a complete nightmare and i want to move further with this float adjustment.

Can you describe the 10 turns clockwise method precisely? I guess i will need to go through this method in order to get the 23 mm level or wouldnt it be the same if i open both float lids and dip in a caliper to determine how much fuel is in each bowl without cranking the engine then i will know how much i have to bend the tang.

23 /21 mm from the bottom of the float lid?

Are these fuel levels on the front and rear carb floats okay?

Im reall concerned on the difference on the reading of the psi of the former pump vs this new one which is the same model. My mechanic did installed a restrictor after the fuel filter before the carbs. Should i remove it? Its the bronze color one between the clips.

Well i set them at the level shown. All plugs are fouled and car misfires as i start to accelerate. I'll replace all spark plugs with a new set and test the car to see if the misfire and stumbling goes away.

Ill try that tomorrow. 4 hours of setting front and rear carb floats to the correct fuel level. If i bend the tangs more fuel will spill from the lid air inlets.

Why is it still backfiring through the intake after 3.5 turns clockwise

Thanks for your kind advice. I might have screwed the float level either on the front or rear carb as the engine still backfires at the carbs intakes at 3.5 turns clockwise. I am not certain of the history of the needle valves and maybe they are not in the correct working order.

Just noticed that the fuel pressure even with the new pump is 3 psi when the former one when installed Brand new measured 4.2 psi. Something must be limiting the fuel pressure even though you argue that 3 psi is enough. Another thing i have noticed is that the engine does crank at 2.5 turns clockwise but will not hold it for many seconds if i dont open them to 3 turns clockwise on both. I thought that if the engine does not keep up to 2.5 turns without the choke on, something is wrong.

Front and rear fuel levels after adjusting tang.