Johnny wick
-
Posts
2,204 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Knowledge Base
Zcar Wiki
Forums
Gallery
Events
Downloads
Store
Blogs
Collections
Classifieds
Everything posted by Johnny wick
-
Okay this means the float metal bracket just touching the pin of the needle valve and not pushing it?
-
Are you selling this set at the moment? Im interested in one of them
-
This means its .55 gap between the rim of the lid and the bottom of the float depressed?
-
So i should take both floats out and verify they are set to .55 gap with a 9/16 inch drill bit and install them and then set the 23mm with clear tube hose on front and rear carb?
-
I still dont understand why the mechanic dialed the front carb mixture knob to 4 turns clockwise and the rear one to 2.5 turns clockwise. I took some pictures yesterday of plugs 1 and 3 of the front carb. Something must be wrong on that front float. Do you need to crank the engine In order to verify the level with the sight clear tube fasten to the drain plug??
-
How do i measure this 25mm front and 21 mm at the rear? I thought all i had to do is set the float gap to .55 inches.
-
What about the new holes my mechanic drilled to the front carb lid? Will this affect?
-
I already set one the front lid to .55 inches gap beween the rim of the lid and the bottom of the float. What next?
-
How do you use it?
-
.55 inches ?? I really want to be sure of the starting point.
-
Okay took the front carb float out from another set of carbs i had lying around before getting into the car and messing it up. Two questions: 1. Can you point out from where to where must the gap of 9/16 or .55 mm be measured? What type of ruler shall i use? 2. Is it the same gap measurement on the rear carb?
-
Ok. Let me set both nozzles at 2.5 and send you a picture of each.
-
I just want to deal first with the airtex fuel pump pressure and deal with the float level then. Just a quick question: does the metal filter at the electric pump gets dirty an avoids the pressure to rise if you leave the pump in the start position without cranking the engine ? This has happened 3 times to me. Always end up with a new pump.
-
Look the fuel pressure before i delivered the car to the mechanic was 4 to 4.3 psi. Nice pressure indeed. Just measured the pressure today and it is scarcely 3 to 3.2 psi. Could the metal filter become clogged when leaving the pump running for several minutes without the cranking the engine? If so does cleaning the metal fuel filter clear the path to 4.3 psi as when it was new? It really complicated to remove the filter with the pump fastened to the chassis.
-
I had these symptoms before and it was ny airtex 8012s electric fuel pump going south.
-
I crank the car again and i did notice some sputtering and hesitation while driving between 3000 to 4000 rpm. Ill check my fuel pump pressure tomorrow hoping the mechanic did not left the pump running without cranking the engine for long time.
-
Pictures of plugs 1 2 3 4 5 6
-
Well i tested the car today with the front carb adjusted to 4 turns clocks and the rear carb to 2.5 turns. Mechanic considers that the fact that the depht of the hole where the needle valve seats in comparison to the depth of the hole of the other needle valve fastened in the rear carb is why he had to drill the additional hole on the lid to insert the pin and adjust the front carb to 4 turns. Anyway i was thinking that since i have another carb set i could also replace the rear lid of the other carb to see if i could then dial both carbs to 2.5 turns and then the car should have no stalling issues at idle. The only way he could have the same fuel level on both carbs is through this adjustment.
-
So it should not be more than 2.5 turns clockwise each? Well my mechanic drilled a hole on the ears of the front carburetor float lid in order to get the same level on both carbs. We will test the car tomorrow in traffic to see of it still dies at idle. My problem has always been at idle.
-
My mechanic drilled extra holes to the ears of the front float lid in order to get a precise fuel level at the float chamber. He set the front carb to 3.5 turns and the rear to 2.5 turns clockwise. Anyway we will test the car tomorrow in traffic.
-
Well my mechanic had to drill another hole to obtain the same fuel level on both carbs in order to avoid the car stalling at idle. Strange design. The holes were the needle valves are fastened are also if different depths. I cant believe i paid 700 usd for ztherapy to set up my carbs and i am still dealing with this type of issues of different measurements on float valve compartments
-
Also noticed that the axis that holds the float is different on the front carb in comparison to the rear one
-
This is really strange that both carbs cannot be dialed equally as i paid ztherapy almost 700 usd to rebuilt both carbs on november 2014
-
Come on guys give me the secret. Im getting there finally. It seems that the front carb requires half a turn more than the rear carb on the idle mixture knob
-
I am using sm needles on my 3 screws su carbs with a modified 2.6 liter engine and schneider 274f and its impossible to have a smooth idle with them. I guess they are still too rich at idle. So rich plugs start to foul and engine tends to stall on traffic jams. Using atf as damper oil.
