Johnny wick

the studs or the bolts? which ones should not be broken? Asides from installing the metal nissan gasket which of the aformentioned permatex sealants should i use?

Well i found out yesterday while taking the car to a muffler shop and placing a garden hose in the manifold to downpipe área, there was a some hiss present (exhaust leak). Luckily i just received a pair of manifold to downpipe gaskets and would like you advice on which one to use and what steps to acomplish to seal this área properly i.e. clean both surfaces, the manifold entry and the downpipe, place the gasket and drop some permatex ultra copper sealant to seal it more tight? the Permatex mufller & Tailpipe sealer advertises to withstand 2000 °F. I forgot to mention that the shop that installed the MSA PREMIUM EXHAUST system, couldnt remove the nuts with the corresponding wrench and hence had to use the soldering gun to heat the manifold área in order to remove the stock downpipe.

well i live in Panama in Central America and installed a Stanton 160°F thermostat (wish somebody could sell me an original Nissan OEM 160°F to see if there is any noticeable difference) and when stuck in heavy traffic jam the temperature rises to 3/4 of the gauge. The only way it lowers a Little bit but not to 1/2 is if i open the engine Hood in the middle of the traffic.

Thanks to all of you. SInce im fighting with fuel percolation issues at the carb i am still thinking if reversing and installing the inline heat control manifold thermostat back will get the car warmer more fast or if this is irrelevant. Anyone has a picture of the correct color the spark plugs should come out if the AF mixture is correct?

Last night while fine tuning my round top 3 screws mixture adjusting nuts to mantain a correct idle while preventing the spark plugs getting carbón fouled due to rich mixture, i discovered that my car is taking 5 to 7 minutes to warm up and i need to drive it with the choke pulled until the temperature at the temp gauge reaches to 1/2. Otherwise, if i remove the choke, the acceleration is very poor and tends to fail. As part of the history of this car, i did remove the inline heat control thermostat and plugged the coolant lines on the back of both carburetors to lower the percolation. In view of this, i have the following questions: 1. I live on a Tropical warm weather so i will never need the heater. If i install the inline heat control thermostat shown in the picture back, my car will warm up faster and the choke will only need to be pulled 2 to 3 mins? 2. Gas Mixture nuts were adjusted from 2.5 base and fine adjusted to 2.65 turns clockwise. Idle at 1000 RPM and balanced. Lowering it more than 2.5 turns clockwise will cause a loss in power at the moment of driving. Is the mínimum aceptable revving shown when you accelerate and it does it smoothly? Once this is accomplished, then the mixture is the correct one?

this means i need the PERMATEX ULTRA COPPER one: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81878-Maximum-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B0002UEOPA or the muffler and tailpipe sealer shown above??

Which of these rtv should i buy to seal the unions and manifold to downpipe correctly? I cant seem to find the permatex ultra copper.

Travel man, Which Brand shall i buy? Permatex? Ultra copper or which one? https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/ultra-series-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-copper-maximum-temperature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker/ Please confirm!

Do you also have backfire on deceleration at the exhaust?? Popping at exhaust when releasing the gas pedal??

Well honestly my mechanic had removed the anti backfire valve, and emmission devices that where fastened to the balance tube. He also removed the air galley. I dont know if the smog pump was removed or not by Previous Owner. I do believe so as the engine block had the blank space to bolt the compressor bracket to fasten the AC Compressor which i installed last year. Anyway, if i dont have the air galley installed any longer and it forms part of the emission system, even if i source a NOS Anti backfire valve, once installed it would not cause any effect to avoid the deceleration popping at the exhaust. Any other way of preventing the deceleration popping at the tailpipe? Buying a NOS Antibackfire valve is not the solution!!!! I did took a picture of the old Steel exhaust system and only stayed with the original downpipe. The rest was dumped. The last picture shows how my car was when i bought it. I did stored the anti backfire valve but i dont think it is working and the air galley was rotten so i am not putting it back. with the lousy former exhaust i had no deceleration popping so replacing all of the emmission system parts is not a solution.

Mine is not excessive but does bother a Little bit! I re-tuned the carbs yesterday using the GUNSON COLORTUNE and dialed both carbs to 2.75 turns clockwise until i got the blue color. set the idle to 1000 rpm and did the balance. Good response when accelerating. However i tried to lean the mixture to 1.5 turns which gives me a horrible response when accelerating and the deceleration popping was still present. I even retarded the timing to 11 btdc and its the same. So i believe one of the 2.5 inches 3 bolt pipe to pipe gasket or the manifold to downpipe gasket could be leaking. IF not then i will have to live with the decel popping.

Do i really need to source a mechanical pump and use it all together with the AIRTEX 8012s electric fuel pump?

PO removed the mechanical fuel pump from my car before i bought it! The Airtex 8012s electric fuel pump i have installed pushes 3psi (i measured it with a gauge last week). So in order to combat this horrible heat soak, i will be installing a 280zx injector cooling blower and using thermo-tec adhesive backed heat barrier: https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-13575-Adhesive-Backed-Barrier/dp/B00029KC2K to wrap the heat shield extensions. I am just really fed up of trying to solve this fuel starvation during traffic jams. Anyone has a better solution?? Cant believe i am the only one that has this problem and cant find a way to fix it!

No language problem! I just want your confirmation that asides from the wrapping of the stainless Steel heat shield extensions, the 280zx air injector manifold cooling blower shown could solve the percolation. As simple as that. And by the way, no nissan club in Panama!

I think the 280zx injector cooling blower is the remedy. Anyone differs?

car came with no mechanical pump! pictures above are not from my car. My car came only with an AIRTEX 8012s electric pump.

Well if you add choke it clears up. I read that some people in Australia where there is also high temperatures are installing a 280zx injector cooling fan as per the pictures attached. Could this posible help besides from adding a layer of thermo-tec insulation adhesive foil to both of my heat shield extensions?

no improvement! the same fuel percolation! We bypassed the fuel rail with 5 inch rubber hose and fittings and when we got stuck on a big traffic idle became lumpy and car tended to stall.

I am getting fuel percolation at both carbs due to the amount of heat radiated by the manifold. I even replaced the fuel rail with rubber hoses this weekend and was still getting rough idle under a heavy traffic at 11:00 a.m. bumper to bumper. Car started to hesitate and stalled a couple of times. However i did found this company called THERMO-TEC which provides solutions to wrap the fuel lines and wrap the heat shield extensions: http://thermotec.shptron.com/c/heat-protection?pp=8&pg=2 Which of all the products they sell can work to wrap the fuel rail and cover the heat shield extensions?

This is correct. What i am getting is fuel percolation at both carbs. I even replaced the fuel rail with rubber hoses this weekend and was still getting rough idle under a heavy traffic at 11:00 a.m. bumper to bumper. Car started to hesitate and stalled a couple of times. However i did found this company called THERMO-TEC which provides solutions to wrap the fuel lines and wrap the heat shield extensions: http://thermotec.shptron.com/c/heat-protection?pp=8&pg=2 Which of all the products they sell can work to wrap the fuel rail and cover the heat shield extensions?

Timing is set to 16BTDC as it runs smoother. The shop says there is no leaking and they do not sell high quality gaskets. Some people even say it normal to have popping at exhaust!

Im looking for a better 2.5" 3-bolt gasket replacement for the pipe to pipe gasket supplied by MSA in their kit: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/15-6302 I have read i should purchase Nissan to avoid any leak as the ones supplied by MSA are not high quality. Any recommendation?

well i tightened the tailpipe rear and front clamps as there is no gasket in that área. the only 3 gaskets that come with this exhaust system are the manifold to downpipe gasket and the two pipe to pipe 2.5 inches gasket. I even lowered the mixture to 1.5 turns clockwise to lean the mixture and there is still popping at the exhaust. I guess i will need to purchase a set of better quality gaskets: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/3-Bolt-2-5-Exhaust-Header-Manifold-Collector-Flange-Gasket-Graphite-Aluminum-/112287982661?hash=item1a24e2a445:g:lNgAAOSwB4NWuPPk&vxp=mtr I really hate that exhaust popping sound at deceleration and mostly because i did not had it with the stock exhaust. Maybe due to the fact that this is a turbo muffler its different. Anyone?

My car Air galley was removed long time ago. All of the ports in the balance tuve were capped. As i mentioned before, before making the swap of the original exhaust i had no deceleration popping, I lean the mixture to 2 turns clockwise and i am still having deleration popping at the back where the tailpipe is fasten to the turbo muffler. I even took the car back to the shop, and they told me the connections amongst the pipes have no leaks. WHat could be wrong then?

Have you got pictures of the heat shields? what material did you use to insulate the metal fuel rail and fuel lines? I have the exact same problem and need a solution to percolation at the fuel bowls!