Johnny wick

anyone? i guess its time to install a blower that can blow air between the manifold and su carbs float bowls thus mantaining that área cool and avoiding fuel percolation.

i love it too!! but have some popping on deceleration when letting the gas pedal go. Im afraid i can damage the engine and hence i have been advised the unión gaskets are not of high quality. Where do i get the nissan quality gaskets?

Where do i get these high quality 2.5 diameter gasket?

So these gaskets are really of good quality? The popping is only on deceleration and becomes more accentuated when the car goes down a hill with the foot off the accelerator.

Nick, I already had the msa Premium exhaust kit installed. I did noticed there is some detonation when i let the gas pedal go and more pronounced if i go down a hill. Is this normal?? Both of my 72 round 3 screws SU CARBS are tuned and balanced correctly. If i lean the mixture i will have detonation at the intake. Are the gasket sold by MSA good enough? My original stock system was 2". THis one is 2.5"

Steve, I want to know the outcome of your Project. You see in addition to the stock heat shield which was installed in the car by the Factory originally, i have mounted a stainless Steel heat shield extension that reaches the bottom of both 3 screws SU Carburetor float bowls and the percolation is still present. The gasoline in Panama has no ethanol so this should not be happening. The heat comes from the manifold and thus there must be away of lowering that amount of heat so it does not affect the fuel that is inside the foat valves and that will evaporize and consequently shut the engine down. I am hereby enclosing pictures of the heatshield extension and the new downpipe of the MSA PREMIUM EXHAUST that is connected to the stock manifold for your perusal. Some guys in these fórum only throw out ideas such as swapping metal fuel rail with 5 inch rubber hoses or driving with the lid off? Is this really going to help and avoid the car idle becoming lumpy at traffic jams which leads to a sudden shut down of the engine? Wouldnt it be better to put an ice cooler to lower the temperature at the manifold?

Well the mechanic i am using now used to repair and manufacture parts for the locomotives that pull the vessels transiting the Panama Canal. He is very Smart and has concluded that the issue with my car is the amount of heat produced by the manifold as when the car is at idle during traffic the heat makes the gas boil and evaropates at the bows. We will be replacing the metal fuel rail with 5 feet long 1/4" rubber hoses to see if it solves the vapor lock or fuel percolation issue. He also recommended pulling the heat shield extensión out and wrapping it in header insulation.

Just talk to an experience Corvette Mechanic. He argues that the problem with these cars is the amount of heat coming out of the manifold and heating up the float bowls on both 3 screws rounded SU CARBS. I already have the headshield, and heat shield extensión installed. He says i should also wrap it with the same insulation i used for the Steel fuel rail and other recommendations he wil explain tomorrow when we test the car on heavy traffic. Should i also wrap the exhaust tube that is connected to the manifold? WHat type of insulation provides the best heat dissipation?

Steve, let me know if you have the same problem as the one i have and if you found the solution,

i already have a heat shield extensión installed which was manufactured by the guy in the video i posted. Nevertheless, it has not solved the rough idle and sudden shut down during traffic jams. Now i need to see how will i reroute the fuel rail that is attached to the head.

trying to find a picture of somebody who has replaced the stock metal fuel rail with rubber hoses to determine the exact lenght, material, and routing.

rubber hoses??

What diameter are those pipes? 2.25 or 2.5? nice rumble!! Do you also have heat soak problems?

i just got the MSA PREMIUM EXHAUST 70-72 Stock manifold kit! http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/15-6302 Any additional recommeded part i should buy to cool the heat and avoid this problem!!

Jarvo, I had downloaded it a year ago and once read, i decided to look for a stainless Steel heat shield extensión that covers both floats bowls of the 3 screws carburetors on my 72. Anyway today i swapped the complete exhaust of the car with the MSA PREMIUM EXHAUST which has a 2.5 diameter pipe and xlerator turbo muffler. Once finished i drove out of the shop and got into a 10 minute traffic with lot of heat fron the road.. idle became lumpy until the car died 2 times. I decided to order a Malpassi glass filter and regulator (85mm versión) to regulate any excess of fuel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Malpassi-Filter-King-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-and-Gauge-clear-glass-bowl-/110622432307 If pressure is too high, this will be the symptom? I still dont want to remove the Steel fuel rail!! WHo else had this problem and solve it? I already wrapped the Steel fuel rail and installed a heat shield extensión. What else????

thanks to all of you. I finally took the car the shop and had the MSA Premium Exhaust installed. Nice sound when i speed up and low rumble at idle. I was wondering if i would need to tune up my carbs back again due to the new exhaust which has a diameter of 2.5 " instead of the former 2"? Will i need to set up the mixture in both carbs, idle speed and balance? Or the new MSA exhaust does not affect the actual setup?

why the offense? trying to solve fuel percolation at idle during traffic jams and you come up with this?

such nice Steel fuel rail to be dumped in the trash and replaced with cheap fuel hoses? still testing with idle at 1100 rpm which goes down to 900 when ac is activated!

Improvement?? Im still stucked and trying to tackle this heat soak hesitation or whatever it is during traffic jams even after installing an aluminum heat shield extensión as in the picture attached and swapping the spark plugs with NGK BP5ES (hotter) to keep them from fouling during short stops and traffic lights. As the cam i have is a Schneider 274F and has an RPM range from 1800 to 6000, he recommeded to raise my idle to 1100 instead of the 1000 i have it set at. We checked the PSI pushed by the Airtex 8012S electric fuel pump yesterday and it showed 2.5 to 3 psi. Still clueless on how to solve this!! Will test the car again at 1100 RPM idle tonight.

THis is exactly the same problem i have!! Heat Soak after getting stucked in traffic for several minutes. Cant seem to find the solution!! I even read some crazy ideas of driving with the engine lid off!!

I have several questions regarding the precise fuel pressure both of the 3 screws round SU CARBS on my 240z will tolerate as i am pushing the fuel through an AIRTEX 8012S which is rated 5 to 9 PSI: 1. Should i measure the fuel pressure plugging a "T" before the front carburetor? 2. Should the pressure read no more tan 4.3 psi? 3. What if the pressure reads more than this limit but does not show any spill out of the fuel bowls? Will i need to open both fuel bowls and reset the level. THis was done by Ztherapy in 2014 and i would not like to mess with it.

ok!!!

Nick, I sent you an e-mail. Please do not forget to send me the video or pics of your installation. How loud is this msa stock exhaust system? can i still listen to the radio with it?

please remember my car is a 1972 240z and the kit i bought from msa is the following: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/15-6302

Do you have pictures of the installation? Just got the full kit 4 days ago? Any soldering needed or is it just a bolt-in period? I would like to see pictures of a clean and profesional installation.