Johnny wick

Where do i get a Nissan OEM Speedo cable?? I bought one from black dragon but its not good quality. the needle still jumped when i installed it!! I want nissan oem quality as the original.

it does not stumble! it does not spit when slowing the gas down. I have both carbs tuned at 2.65 turns clockwise and with NGK BP5ES (hotter) sparks to avoid stumbling and tendency to shut down when rpm drops from 950 to 600. Mechanic is ready to adjust valves on the car but cold!! If i increase the turns on both idle mixture wheels, the mixture will become rich and then the spark plugs will start to foul at idle!

My 240z has a jumpy needle from 0 to 10mph. I have already greased the cable, changed with a new cable, changed the pinion gear and the problem persists. Any slight possibility that the speedometer clock could be damaged?

Well i set the timing to 14btdc at idle. Seems fine and good response when warm after 6 mins of choke. The engine does not crank if i dont pull the choke in the mornings!

I have set the timing on my distributor which has a petronix ignitor device and flamethrower coil to 12 btdc at idle. I would still like a faster response when revving from stops at 1st gear. Both carbs have been set to 2.65 turns clockwise. 2 days ago i raced the car 20 mins and came back to the garage, open the Hood and took both spark plugs 3 and 4 out. they look like brownish to black as per the picture. I have also noticed that when the car is cold, i need to drive it with the choke on for 5 to 7 mins. Is this normal?? I have removed that inline heat control manifold thermostat and have only a 160F (71C) thermostat installed, nothing else. The coolant line that goes on the rear of both carbs was shut down, to avoid percolation at the float valves. Questions: 1. How can i warm up the car faster when cold? Leaving the choke on for 5 to 7 mins will do any harm? 2. How can i get a faster response from stops? Should i move the distributor timing to 14 btdc?

Well i have set both carbs to 2.75 turns and have lowered the timing from 15 bdtc to 12btdc. I like it more with 15 btdc because it had a better response when speeding from 1st gear.

I have set the timing on my car to 13 BTDC taking in consideration my engine had a Schneider 274F camshaft and not the original camshaft. Am i too advanced? I want a fast response when i shift to 1st. If i lower to 10BTDC it turns to be slow response!

I guess ill leave it alone and continue tuning my su carbs but now with NGK BP5ES plugs (Hotter) than stock NGK BP6ES plugs. Both idle mixture knobs carbs have been set to 2.5 turns clockwise

My su carbs are 3 screw type and were remanufactured by Z Therapy in 2015. I have never opened the float valve chamber to check if the float level is the correct one as they were inspected by Ztherapy! Do you think that even though it was done by ztherapy i should also verify this?? They were shipped by plane to Panama and some people in the other fórums state that it could have shifted abroad. Do you concur? This is very delicate and i dont want to open them and damage something inside.

Im having an issue with cylinder #4 as whenever i race the car and make a couple of stops and leaving the car at idle for 5 mins in the garaje, spark plug 4 (NGK BP5ES) comes out fouled and sooty. I have both front and rear roundtop su carbs at 3 turns clockwise. All of the other plugs are burning correctly. Could my car be running only on 5 cylinders? mechanic says i need a valve adjustment but cold and not hot. Do you concur???? the car does not have the original cam but a Schneider 274F to compensate as my engine was bore to 2.6 L and not 2400 cc as original. http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx Is a valve adjustment at cold required better than Hot?

Zedhead,, TO be honest i still have not swapped the original Steel fuel rail that i have wrapped with heat reflective cloth. However, i did replaced a 170F Original Nissan Thermostat with 160F Stanton Thermostat to make the car run cooler. Left the car at idle after driving for 20 mins. Result: RPM started to drop randomly from 950 to 500 RPM tending to stall but never stalls. My father says that since i dont have the stock cam but a Schneider 274F Cam, the idle will never remain as stable on any traffic. Ill give you a Little more of details of what my car has: L26 crank which makes my motor 79 mm stroke instead of the stock 73.7 mm stock bore is 83 mm for the L24 and the L26 motors my block has been bored out 1 mm to compensate for wear that makes my motor a 2.627 liter motor, My E88 head from 1972 will give you about 8.7 to 1 compression. Schneider 274F Camshaft, Pertronix electronic ignitor (no points), Pertronix 1.5 ohm flamethrower coil, http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx Airtex 8012S 4.0 to 4.5 psi electronic fuel pump. Its really pusing 4 to 4.5 psi. Just give me your opinión on the random rpm drop at idle. I also notice that as the rpm drops the ahmeter drops from 45. I have a 60 amp alternator.

Where can i get the yellow zinc ones? they look really nice!!

The original bolts were cleaned with wd40 and a toothbrush. They work but are a Little rusted. Should i use the originals instead of the 13mm Stainless Steel ones?

The bolts are for the Thermostat Housing cover which i also orded in addition to the 160F thermostat.

not yet. Very busy working. Still have to buy the pair of rubber hoses and fittings. I think they ar 3/8! I did received some stainless Steel bolts from zcardepot. Supplier is excellent! However, the head of the bolts he sent me are 13mm bolts instead of the original 12mm bolts. Should i stick with the original ones that are rusted and which head is 12mm or will this 13mm head fit fine?

cleaned both surfaces, cleaned and removed rust from both bolts, installed them with the two washers and new gasket: No more leaks! No need to use high temp rtv. However i did noticed that during traffic jams temp gauge still raises to more than 1/2 so i ordered a 160°F thermostat from z car depot! Not original OEM but at least it is 160°F

i may be missing the second washer.

took one of the bolts out! I think they are 12mm. Cleaned it with wd40 but still has lot of rust! Should i replace them with Stainless Steel of the same size.

now i am seeing coolant coming out from one of the bolts!! Should i just buy a new set of stainless Steel bolts size 12, remove the old gasket, clean both surfaces (thermostat housing and cover) and install new bolts with this new gasket?? I really dont want to use any High Temp silicone,

i mean that there is some wáter running out of the thermostat housing as per the picture attached. I will check the mating surfaces and sand them with grit paper and reistall the thermostat again. I really dont like the idea of using high temp rtv!! Please see the picture closely and the wáter leak.

My rad is a Champion 3 row radiator!!!! A year ago i took it to a rad shop and they say there was no leak. Rad in perfect shape.

I am having a leak after cleaning the thermostat cover and reinstalling the 170°F (76.5 C) tropical thermostat. I installed it as shown using a nissan gasket. I did notice rust on the bolts when i removed them and sprayed some WD40 on them. It is jusk leaking wáter and no coolant. Is this normal???? Will i need to open in once again and reinstall tightening the bolts even more? No rtv or high temp silicone. Just the gasket!

Jeff, Any pictures you can provide me with regarding the routing of the rubber fuel hoses which replace the original metal fuel rail? I want to know the lenght of the hoses, fittings and correct routing.

I tested the car yesterday. Race it for 15 mins, came back and open the lid! there is a small leak on the housing. I dont want to tighten the bolts anymore as i might break then. Should i open the housing and drop some high temp rtv silicone or could the gasket be defective. Its just a small wáter leak. Another thing i am noticing is that since i removed the inline manifold thermostat and plugged the system as shown, the car takes more time to warm up. is this normal? any problema on leaving the choke on for more than 1 mins and driving with the choke open until it reaches 1/2 at the temp gauge?

okay! i will remove it first and test it to see if there is any change!