Johnny wick

do you think that thermal cloth i wrapped around the metal fuel rail is doing anything to lower the gasoline temperature? Should i remove it? it looks silly and if aint helping with the fuel percolation i might as well remove it.

let me check! Im still with the original metal fuel rail. Trying to keep the vintage look!

dumb question: Do you guys replace the gasket that is sold together with the thermostat and seal the housing and cap with High Temperature RTV silicone or you just install the thermostat with the gasket and bolt it? If a permatex high temp silicone is recommended in addition to the OEM gasket, which one is recommended?

the rad is plugged?????

thanks Chickenman. I opened the thermostat housing and discovered i had the 76.5° thermostat installed the gasket was worn and melted and had silicon rtv spreaded around the housing. Is this common?? Should i just remove the all melted gasket with a knife, sand it and place a new gasket as i did before installing the thermostat back in the housing or should i also add high temperature rtv silicone around? I guess i should purchase a 160°C instead of the one i have. At idle the temp gauge reaches until 3/4 when it should keep below 1/2. My father used to have a Fiat 124 in the mids 70s and says i should remove the damn thermostat out of the system. Panama weather is hot (33°C) and this is not needed here!! I guess if Nissan design the system to be used with a thermostat it should be installed accordingly. Any thoughts on this??

i want nissan oem 160° made in japan!

I wanna open the thermostat housing on my 1972 240z so i can check if my thermostat is 160, 170 or 180° degrees? Should i just remove the bolts of the cap that covers the thermostat and avoid spilling any coolant? Whats the correct procedure to remove the verify and remove the thermostat as i want to be sure its a 160° thermostat and not 180°. I would like to purchase an original nissan OEM 160 or 170° thermostat but its getting complicated. WHere do i buy one?

how do i clean the filter when its get dirty? Just water or do i need to buy the cleaning kit!

still looking for a Nissan OEM 160° thermostat. No luck yet.

So bottomline. Will my car performance be affected if i remove the Manifold Heat Control Thermostat considering that the temperature in Panama is 33°C as i already removed it and plugged the lines as shown. Problem is that now the car takes longer to warm up and need to leave the choke longer. I was having fuel percolation issues and needed to be able to use the car in traffic jams without stalling issues.

Chickenman, First of all i wish you a happy christmas and upcoming new year. Just to let you know the car is not stalling any longer but does oscillate its rpm from 950 to 700 after getting stuck in traffic jams or at traffic lights or just letting it idle in the garage. I think it should keep steady and just oscillate from 850 to 950 rpm. I did the following mods: 1. Remove the inline heat control manifold that comes from the intake wáter line from the system and plugged the line that goes to the main thermostat housing and plugged the wáter line that goes at the back of both carbs. now the car takes 5 to 6 mins to warm up but at least it does not stall at long idles. 2. Install 2 heat shield extensions covering the fuel bowls on both carbs. Do you think i should look for a Nissan 160° thermostat so i can keep the Reading under 1/2 as on traffic jams it climbs to 3/4?? Please advise.

already installed with no issues!! thanks!

it does not fall back to 500 rpm. It keeps the rpm range from 800 to 900 rpm. My car does not have the original 240z cam. it has a Schneider 274F cam to compensate the overboring of the cylinders. i did noticed that if i open the Hood and leave the car in idle at the parking lot the idle becomes smoother. Anyway of getting the rest of the heat out from the car to help during traffic jams?

Pacific. Panama City. I would like you to see my car and let me know your thoughts on how to get rid of this 900 to 500 sudden and random rpm drop when the engine is at idle during extended time. utting it in a pan of water along with a cooking thermometer and heating it to see if it opens at the proper temperature. As for Datsuns in Panama, I'm surprised there weren't a few Zs brought in by US military members stationed there or Americans working for the Canal company during the 1970s. It's been a few years since I was there but plan to visit again in April. Interesting that the local Nissan dealer won't supply parts for a Datsun. My local deal never sold Datsuns, but is happy to provide parts for my Z if they are still available in the supply system. Good luck with the ongoing project. Dennis Please let me know when you come so i can show you my car and maybe a trip to the new set of Panama Canal Locks!

Please let me know when you come so i can show you my car and maybe a trip to the new set of Panama Canal Locks!

the idle goes back to 900 rpm and stays there! I will check again today!

Do you need to remove the inner gaskets of the airbox so the KN Filter fits? I also ordered one! Should i just paint the airbox like this and forget about putting any seals around:

Any noticeable difference installing a K & N AIR FILTER? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17a02a/11-5002 Do you need to remove the rubber gaskets inside and around the the original air filter box so the K & N Filter can fit?

Number 1, I am not selling any car or getting a BMW or Miata. Not interested! Number 2, Nissan does not support any datsun model any longer. the 240z was never sold in Panama. The models that were sold in Panama were the following: http://www.heragtv.com/estos-son-los-autos-mas-duros-de-matar-de-panama/ After removing the Heat Control thermostat which i really dont know if it was shut or not and hard line from the circuit, i am still experiencing sudden rpm drop from 900 to 500. Is there any posible way of keeping the rpm stable at 900? My car has a Schneider 274F camshaft and not the original one. Could this be the reason?? The car is not stalling but this sudden rpm fluctuation feels unconfortable when driving and getting stuck in traffic jams. http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx

Which thermostat? I need the one for tropical hot weather! I took some pictures and left the car idling for 15 minutes. Engine still drops rpm to 500 randomly but does not shut off. Once i opened the engine bay. i saw some bubbles on the glass fuel filter. A friend of mine thinks the car needs valve adjustment on cold so the idle gets less lumpy.

I took some pictures and left the car idling for 15 minutes. Engine still drops rpm to 500 randomly but does not shut off. Once i opened the engine bay. i saw some bubbles on the glass fuel filter. A friend of mine thinks the car needs valve adjustment on cold so the idle gets less lumpy.

problem was low coolant. I went and bought a gallon of coolant until i reached to the level of the filler. Temperature mantains at 1/2 while driving but increases until 3/4 at idle with lights on and AC on. I also noticed that after leaving it on idle for more than 15 minutes, rpm dropped randomly from 900 to 600 RPM. However, engine did not stalled. There are some bubbles on the glass fuel filter.

okay. Im leaving the car rest tonight! I will crank it in the morning and leave it idling until the temp starts to rise! How long should i leave it idling and what should i check?? can you guide me through the verification process?

he says its my problem. I was the one who recommended this experiment and that i will need to wait until January 1st to revert it as he is going for vacations to Colombia! His hometown.

i wanna know if i remove the thermostat to determine if its shot or not, will this avoid the temp from rising or does the thermostat need to be there!