Johnny wick

Just tuned both of my recently remanufactured SU Carbs and filled them up with ATM fluid. THe car drives great at high speed, however in 1st and 2nd gear when releasing the clutch pedal and accelerating slow, not hard! Imagine getting in a traffic jam or passing a Street bump, the car presents a shaking back and forth motion. Could this be a distributor problem?? Bad Timing or Could the distributor need some inner cleaning with WD-40 or Contact Cleaner?? I have a recently installed Pertronix Ingitor and coil which is delivering the correct spark!!

Well i finally managed to tune both front and rear carbs at a Little less than 3 and a half turns. I am using Automatic Transmission Fluid as damper oil. However, i am getting a hesitation and stumbling if i drive the car at slow speed between 1st and 2nd gear or if the car passes through a bumpy Street at slow speed. Could i have the ignition time wrong? I read that if the time is not set properly with a timing light you could present this problem.

I hope so!! Mechanics here in Panama only know how to change parts and not diagnose anything. I will need your technical advice to complete my Project.

Thanks Blue. Will i need to get a Timing light gun to adjust the time also as follows: 12 BTDC at 950 RPM IDLE 36 BTDC at 2,800 RPM I really appreciate your assistance on this.

First of all, both of these carbs were fully remanufactured from scratch by Bruce Palmer at Ztherapy so they do not have any type of wear. I did this piston lifting test on the rear carb, if i lift it too much, the engine shuts down. If i do the same in the front carb, the engine slows down but does not shut off. I drove the car last night at 3 turns clockwise each of the idle mixture knobs with Brand new bp6es spark plugs at .35 mm gap. The car lacked power as it tend to stumble when accelerating under 3,000 RPM. I closed the gap to .31 mm each and richen the mixture of the rear carb to 3.5 turns and it has more power. Any clues of what could be wrong? as background of my car it has a Shneider 274F cam with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head. Recent rebuilt 5 speed transmission from 280Z with new Center Force 1 clutch with stainless steel clutch hose.

Do both of the idle mixture knobs need to be set up equally? ie 3 turns clockwise on the front carb and 3 turns clockwise on the rear carb or could i set 3 turns clockwise on the front and 3.5 on the rear carb striving to get a brownish tan color burn in all 6 spark plugs?

Already checked and they are fine. I have a 274F Schneider cam and should not have any erratic idle issue. the rpm should remain steady at 950 RPM in traffic jams and stop lights. With this cam isnt this posible? I strive for perfect idle. I bought myself the following vacuum gauge to verify for any leaks: http://www.amazon.com/ATC-Vacuum-Fuel-Pump-Tester/dp/B00SHPLT50/ref=sr_1_90?ie=UTF8&qid=1432657183&sr=8-90&keywords=vacuum+gauge Where and how exactly will i need to connect it to test for leaks?

The idle is kept fine. The problem is when you are stuck in traffic.

I close them up clockwise until the nozzle is flush and then back it up 3 turns. After driving the car more tan 10 minutes, if i get stucked in traffic, the idle starts to drop and increase. It is not steady. the temperature changes to 3/4 of the gauge. If you speed up it lowers. It could also be a faulty temp gauge. Do i need to open the gap more?? ie .035mm??

Just tuned both of my recently remanufactured by Ztherapy SU Carbs to 3 turns clockwise on my 1972 240z. I am getting this color of burn on the 6 spark plug wires (NGK BP6ES at .32mm gap). The car seems pulling okay. However if i get stucked in traffic, the plugs start to get black and the car rpms start to drop a Little bit more. I already made the following mods to the car and still cannot get a completely steady idle: - Change pertronix coil and ignitor (3.0 ohms) - Bypassed the ballast resistor - Swapped the Far 311 Race cam to a 274F Schneider cam -Changed rocker arms -Retainer springs -Lashpads Am i still too rich and need to go down to 2.5 turns?? One of the mechanics says this non stable idle is due to a valve or couple of valves being damaged?? How come?? I did a compression test and the result was the following: cylinder 6 --------------------- 175 psi cylinder 5 --------------------- 180 psi cylinder 4---------------------- 180 psi cylinder 3 ---------------------- 185 psi cylinder 2 ---------------------- 180 psi cylinder 1 ---------------------- 180 psi I do not want to keep on replacing parts that are not necessary. My aim is to bring the car to the steadiest idle and install an AC system. Anyone????

Still waiting for your pictures of your ac installation using the stock controls and routing. Besides of the Servo Diaphgram will you need something else to raise and control the idle once the ac is activated? I am ordering a fan shroud!

Ill try calling!! 3 e-mails and no response!!!

I have sent several e-mails to Vintage Rubber and nobody answers. The product is advertised as the best quality but if you do not get service then it aint worth it!

Have not tried looking for a 280z fan shroud! Is it better tan the MSA Fiberglass Fan Shroud? Please confirm!

How did you fixed it?? I have the same problem as you! i had a refurbished turn signal switch sent by Dave Irwin last year. It worked fine for a couple of months, now i have to open the plastic enclosure that surrounds the steering column and bend the bracket down so the right hand marker starts flashing again. Will i need to take down the turn signal switch again and open the tabs to check the ball and bearing? Dave says to return it to him but it will cost me around 50 dollars to ship it back to the US as i am in Panama, Central America. Picture number one is how it is found inside the enclosure, picture number 2 is how it activates the right marker, front and rear turn lights. Can i fix this myself?

It was a bad installation! Everything is working perfectly!! Some backfire from the muffler but its fine!

I just revert it back to the former ignitor an 3.0 pertronix coil and the tach is working as it should be. Could either of both coil or ignitor arrived damaged?

Yes! i reverted it! Replace the original ignitor and former coil and the tach is working perfectly and not jumping! Really weird! The Pertronix coil is model 40511, 3.0 ohms.

This morning i decided to swap the ignitor installed on my 240z and after opening the distributor cap i notice something is missing, i guess it could be the ground wire,so i fabricated one with 2 terminals and installed a new pertronix ignitor model 1761 together with a 40511 new 3.0 ohms ignition coil. The car cranked up fine, but whenever you step on the gas the tachometer does not read correctly. Once it reaches to 5,000 RPM it jumps to 7000 goes back to zero, etc. If you have the car parked and step on the pedal it raises to 5,000 goes back to zero. Bottom line it is not Reading as it used to read with the former ignitor. What could be wrong here? Could i have missed something? I have attached pictures of the original 1761 ignitor and the one i just installed which is giving me problems. Your advice is highly appreciated.

I have a similar problem with my 1972 240z. Rough idle. I have it set up at 950 rpm (Shneider 274 F Cam, Pertronix ignitor and ignition coil, remanufactured SU carbs from Ztherapy and stock exhaust). If i leave the car in the parking after warmed up for more tan 10 minutes, the rpm starts to go lower from 950 to 850 and rises back to 1000 Rpm? Arent these cars suppose to keep its idle as smooth as possible in 950 RPM? Could i have a leak somewhere?? I did a compression check and all valves are okay! Will i need to raise the car in an elevator to see if there is a leak somewhere in the exhaust or manifold? Already did the carb cleaner test around all the hoses and did not notice any change.

The back and forth hesitation problem was over. I also needed to set both idle mixture knobs to 3.5 turns clockwise. If i set them leaner at 3 turns, the car did not showed enough power in 1st and second gear. The rpms are set at 950 to 1000 and i bypassed the ballast resistor. I have not opened the gap of the spark plugs. I have them set at.028 as they came from Factory (NGK BP6ES).

Yesterday i managed to build a jumper i wire with terminals and connect it through the Ballast Resistor in order to remove it from the circuit as advised. However, before doing this modification, i measured the voltage accross the Petronix 3 ohm on my 240z and it measured between 3.8 to 4 volts DC with the engine on. Is this normal?? Could the Coil be damaged or weak and needs replacement? I measured the Battery Voltage with the car at idle and its 14 Volts DC If the voltage is weak which model is recomendable?

Is the Pertronix 91761 Ignitor II any real improvement (45,000 v) for a 1972 240z? I read it is used with a Pertronix Ignition Coil 45011 which is 0.6 ohms only http://www.amazon.com/PerTronix-45011-Flame-Thrower-Volt-Coil/dp/B00199DPWQ/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_y ! In this scenario would i still need to connect to the stock ballast resistor?

Just received a reply from Pertronix advising to bypass the resistor connecting both wires together. It should not affect the tachometer Reading or anything.

What if i just leave it as it is? For example i purchase another 3.0 coil and connect it again to the resistor as shown in the picture? Will it affect the spark? If i decide to bypass it, is it okay if i screw both leads to one terminal of the Ballast Resistor? Please confirm! I read that leaving the ballast resistor out of the circuit affects the tachometer Reading!