Johnny wick

Got an old school mechanic who came to my house today and inspect the car. After lifting the valve cover, He found out that the engine valves were too tight and will need to adjust them all. He did not brought his feeler gauge and will need to take care of that on monday. He is quoting me US$100 for the following: 1. Valve adjustments which according to my Schneider 274F cam should be set to 0.8 and 0.10. Am i correct? 2. Timing Chain and distributor adjustment. He also noted the car is leaving black residues out of the muffler due to the bad valve adjustment. Is there any additional recommendation i can give him before he starts to adjust the valves? The shop that installed the cam has followed all the steps mentioned in the Hayes Manual and adjusted the timing to 10 degrees. Maybe here is my problem and after all this adjustements are concluded, there will be no more hesitation in 1st gear and backfiring,enabling me to adjust the carbs to 2.5 turns. Any opinions?

I bought a set on EBay last year and still have them stored in a box waiting to be installed when i paint the car. I paid US$300 and they are in excellent shape with their chrome bar.

THese carbs are recently remanufactured by Ztherapy, meaning they are Brand new! Shouldnt both idle mixture knobs be turned equally? 3.5 turns each??

I had 4 days that i did not used my car since last sunday. Car was cold! pull the choke to start it and left it on for 5 minutes. I have the idle set up at 900 RPM with headlights on. Once i backed off the choke cable, the car presented the following problems: 1. Shaking back and forth when accelerating in 1st gear. 2. Backfire / Popping in 1st and 2nd gear. Turn back home: the first 3 plugs from the front carb were okay. the last 3 ones were black. I am using NGK BP6ES spark plugs and Castrol 10w 30 engine oil as damper oil for both carbs. Am i missing something here? I did a vacuum test spraying carb cleaner to each an every hose near the carbs and at the brake booster and did not noticed any change in idle. The idle mixture knob / Screw is turned counterclockwise 3.5 turns which in my opinión is a lot. Should i keep turning until 4 to richen the mixture or is there something else i shall check?

My car has a Pertronix ignitor! Maybe the BP6ES are giving me hassle? Could this be correct?

Excellent website! Thanks!! Where do i order them? Amazon? Which model exactly for the dashboard?

Back and forth hesitation came back when speeding at 1st gear. Damn it! Maybe i need to try ATF as Z therapy says! Car starts shaken when initiating in 1st gear.

Is there any real difference between NGK BPR6ES-11 and BP6ES-11? My 240z has a petronix ignitor installed and sometimes gives me hassles with the current BP6ES which advertise as pre-gapped. Have called many retailers here in Panama and they only have either BP6ES or BPR6ES-11. They dont have BP6ES-11. Can i use NGK BPR6ES-11? US$1.80 a piece!

I will test again today! 2 days ago it was keeping the idle up! I thought the carb cleaner spray test was enough! It the car idle changed, then there could be a leak!

Okay but since i have a Schneider 274F camshaft will the gap on the NGK BP6ES be different or will it still be .040?? http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx

What size of leds? we know its BA9s, but what size?

Well i managed to fix the problem by pulling each of the NGK BP6ES spark plugs, cleaning them with a wire brush and electronic contact cleaner, spraying contact cleaner to each of the terminals of the distributor cap and pertronix ignitor. I also filled up a Little bit more of Castrol 10w 30 engine oil in each of the carbs. Retuned each carb and balance them raising the fast idle screw to 1,500 RPM. I set the idle mixture knobs in each carb to 3.5 turns and the idle RPM to 1,000 RPM. At the moment no backfire or engine shut down. I will keep testing tomorrow and keep you posted! I need to sort this idle issue first before i install the AC system. Question: Are these NGK BP6ES spark plugs pregapped from Factory? or will i need to get a feeler gauge? If so what is the gap?

Swapped the damper oil with Castrol 10w 30 engine oil. Results: 1. Idle still not perfectly steady. Sometimes lowers to 600 RPM; 2. If i make a harsh brake stop, the car engines shuts down. I am really fed up with this situation. I sprayed carb cleaner and could not find any vacuum leak nowhere.

My car does not currently has an AC installed. the temp gauge rises to 3/4 not more than that!

Just filled both of my Hitachi refurbished 3 screw SU Carbs with 3 in one motor oil (Blue and White label). The Temperature here in Panama is 33 degrees Celsius, very hot indeed! The car is running okay, but at first gear sometimes hesitates back and forth. The idle was set to 1000 but does not keep the rpm steady. It lowers to 900 or rises to 1,100 RPM. Sometimes if stuck in traffic it can lower to 500 and could stall. Is this caused by the kind of damper oil? the timing was adjusted to 10 degrees Celsius and the Camshaft is a Schneider 274F (1800 to 6000 RPM) Any recommendations? Both carbs are fully adjusted and fine tuned.

Will it the 60 amp alternator give me hassle once the AC system is installed?

What if you add an Air conditioner system? Is 60 amp alternator still enough or are you pushing it?

Thanks S30 driver! You hit the nail on my query! Last query i have is the following: I am planning on installing a Sanden 508 compressor with the Vintage Gen II mini evaporator kit which i already bought! Is it recomendable to upgrade to 125 High Output Alternator? Will i need to do any modifications to the Ahmeter gauge?

i think ill stay with a 45 amp gauge, even though i actually havea 60 amp Bosch internally regulated alternator! Can someone point out how shall it read,if the ahmeter is working correctly?

Okay, So its better to keep the original 45 ahmeter gauge. Will the Reading be affected if i replace the 60 amp alternator with a 125 alternator???

I am planning on replacing my - 45 --- +45 original ahmeter / fuel gauge installed from Factory in my 1972 240z with a used 280z voltmeter / fuel gauge. The purpose of doing this is because it is not working and could be damaged. The fuel section does work perfectly. Anyway i have several questions: 1. If i decide to change the alternator to a High Output 125 amp alternator if it was not damaged will it still work as i have a spare 45 ahmeter? Right now it has a Bosch 60 amp alternator. 2. Will this upgrade of a 280z voltmeter affect the originality of the car? Value of the car? 3. Will i need to make some modifications to the circuit or is it just plug and play with the current 60 amp alternator or with the coming 125 amp alternator? 4. If i decide to purchase this voltmeter i will need to paint the face. What kind of black spray paint will i need?

What if i replace this Bosch 60 amp Alternator with a Bosch 125 amp alternator? Will this help me keeping the idle up when i turn the headlights on?

Ok! You guys are great giving me advice! Just to be sure i will only need to install a working Servo diaphgram to my car before installing the Sanden 508 compressor and Vintage Air Gen II Mini Evaporator: Please confirm if i will also need the Throttle opener valve shown in the first picture or this is not needed?

Charles, Maybe you could be right! I do not think its either a cam or carburertor tuning problem. The car runs just perfectly. The problem is mantaining the idle. I set it at 1,000 RPM it goes up to 1,100 and down to 900 on traffic or stop lights. If i leave the car parked with the headlights on then it starts lowers to 900 and after 8 to 10 mins goes down to 550 or 600 RPM. Really weird. I even sprayed carb cleaner in case there was a vacuum leak somewhere and there aint none. How do i check if it is the ignition, or any other electrical issues? What should i be checking here?

Thanks Stanley. I have spent so much money in parts and mechanical engineers here in Panama and nobody seems to solve the idle issue. I want my idle totally stable before installing the Air Conditioner System to the car. My car has a Bosch 60 Amp alternator: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12h02d/12-4068