Johnny wick

OK. Reason why i adjusted to 1000 RPM: 1. The camshaft installed is a Schneider 274-F,with new valve springs, retainers and .175 Lash Pads. I also changed to new nissan oem rocker arms. The specifications of this cam are the following: Intake Duration (gross): 274 Exhaust Duration (gross): 274 Intake Duration (.050”): 215 Exhaust Duration (.050”): 215 Intake Valve Lift*: .480" Exhaust Valve Lift*: .480" Intake Valve Lash: .008" Exhaust Valve Lash: .010" RPM Range: 1800-6000 2. My car has a L26 crank which makes the motor 79 mm stroke instead of the stock 73.7 mm stock bore is 83 mm for the L24 and the L26 motors. My block has been bored out 1 mm to compensate for wear that makes my motor a 2.627 liter motor and has a E88 head from 1972 will give about 8.7 to 1 compression I need find out why my idle is not completely steady. I did the carb cleaner spray test and no rpm increase was noticed. What could be affecting my Idle? Still in the nutshell!!!

I have the exact problem keeping my idle. I removed all the EGR System including the throttle opener valve and servo diaphgram. It does not mantain the rpm in 1000. It fluctuates betwenn 900 to 1,000 on traffic jams. If you turn the lights on it lowers to 900 and tends to stall. What could be the problem here. My carbs are totally remanufactured by ztherapy and their are no vacuum leaks.

Is this the part i am missing to keep my idle stable? Will i need it to increase the rpm when the ac system is installed in the car? Please let me know what other parts will i need besides of this one?

Well mine is unstable. I set my carbs at 3.5 turns and rpm at 1000. If i turn the lights on it lowers to 900 RPM. However, I did another test, i left the engine on with the lights turned on for 15 minutes. It drops to 600RPM and raises back to 850 RPM. Is this normal? THe mechanics i have taken this car here in Panama say this is old technology and i should learn to cope with it! I really need to make it stable before deciding on installing an AC System. Having spent 3,000 amongts Labour and parts and still cannot get the car to idle steadily its a big problem!!!

Recently installed a Shneider 274F, changed the timing belt, adjusted the time, and installed SU Carburetors fully rebuilt by Ztherapy. I decided that 1000 RPM as idle was my target but if i get stucked in a traffic jam or leave the engine on for more than 10 minutes, the idle starts to lower to 900 or 800 rpm. If i turn the lights on it lowers more. How can i install an AC System in this car if the idle is not stable. Am i missing something here? is it normal to have this unstable idle with SU CARBS?

I took the car back to the mechanic so he could doublé check there were no vacuum leaks. Now with this 274F Shneider cam (1850-6000 RPM) i have to drive the car differently compared to the Far 311 Race Cam where i just touch the gas pedal and it showed the power. Is this normal with a stock cam??

Just contacted Champion Cooling and they do not manufacture Fan Shroud for this Radiator which has the following measures: CORE DIM (HXW) 13 3/4 X 23 1/4 OVERALL (H X W) 19 3/4 X 27 1/4 Cant believe anyone here has installed a fan shroud for this type of radiator using only the original plastic stock fan blade!!!!

I have a 240z which actually has a Champion 3 row radiator and the original plastic fan blade. When i am stuck in traffic the temperature in the temp gauge rises to 3/4. I have been recommended to get a Fan Shroud for this radiator as i am looking forward to install a Vintage Gen II Mini evaporator and Sanden 508 compressor. What kind of fan shroud shall i purchase for this radiator? Plastic or metal? Which Brand? any other recommendations? Been looking around and cant find any that could possibly fit. Anyone??

Thanks Bruce. Let me tell you that your carburetors were remanufactured perfectly. Now i am having a hassle with the correct Reading of the speedometer!! I had to dial the idle mixture knobs to 3.5 turns as it was not getting enough fuel to the engine.

This is a picture i took underneath my car when the alignment of the tie rods was carried out! As mentioned before my 240z has a 280z transmission. I replaced the speedometer cable but still have a bouncing speedometer from 0 to 40mph! Is there something i am missing here? This cable is Brand new from Black Dragon. Once it reaches 40mph it dials the speed steady.

I have a 240z which actually has a Champion 3 row radiator and the original plastic fan blade. When i am stuck in traffic the temperature in the temp gauge rises to 3/4. I have been recommended to get a Fan Shroud for this radiator as i am looking forward to install a Vintage Gen II Mini evaporator and Sanden 508 compressor. What kind of fan shroud shall i purchase for this radiator? Plastic or metal? Which Brand? any other recommendations?

Okay. So what could then be the cause of the needle bouncing from 0 to 40 mph and then going steady? Sincé my car has a 280z transmission i can order the black pinion drive but will it solve the problem? The speedometer cable i installed is Brand new so i guess no lubrication is needed. Please advise.

Okay. Thanks for the advice. I thought it could be the Carter Fuel Pump due to the fact that when the engine was turned off, it only filled 3/4 of the clear fuel filter. The camshaft my car is carrying right now is a Schneider 274-F which goes from 1850-6000 RPM which was swapped last week. Sincé the swap i am noticing that whenever i turn the engine off i can hear a small whistle. Is this normal?

Yesterday my car was stumbling when accelerating from a stop sign in first gear (back and forth shaking when releasing the accelerator pedal). I had to readjust the carbs, dial the idle mixture knob to 3.5 turns and raise the RPM on each of the carbs to 1,000 RPM. Is 3.5 turns okay for recently remanufactured carbs by Ztherapy? They advise that the starting point is 2.5 turns. Could this be due to a bad timing issue and i need to advance the timing or the electric fuel pump is not pushing enough fuel? I just installed a Carter P60504 which is really silent and has the following specs: Free Flow Rate:30 gph Maximum Pressure (psi):4 psi Please let me know if i am going the correct direction.

I have a Sanden 508 compressor and have purchased the Gen II Mini kit. Can someone point out which compressor bracket is the one that bolts directly to the drivers sided of my 240z which has an L24 engine block. Have seen many on ebay but want to be sure before purchasing. It needs to be the direct 4 bolt mount.

Okay let me explain. I still have the original cable. Before i changed it, the car went up gradually without bouncing as i accelerated until it reached 60 mph, then it started bouncing a Little bit but kept showing the speed. Now that i change it to a speedometer replacement cable i bought at Black Dragon it starts bouncing a Little bit from 0 until it reaches 40 mph. From 40 mph and up it shows the speed as it goes up without bouncing. This is a Brand new cable replaced completely. Please advise as i dont want to spend money on an ebay speedometer.

Okay just completed the alignment at the shop. Now its like 12:30 p.m., better but not exactly centered. Should i go back to them or should i correct this by pulling the steering Wheel out, center it and re install? Just to mention that before i changed all the bushings the steering Wheel was totally straight at 12:00 p.m.

My 240z has a 280z transmission installed. I just changed the speedometer cable due that the needle on the speedometer was bouncing when reaching 60mph. After being replaced with Brand new cable it is all the way around. It bounces from 0 to 40 mph. My mechanic says he needs to have the differential drive ratio. I found this page: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.HTML But still cant understand why he is asking me for this? Will i need to purchase a 5 speed pinion gear due to wear on the teeth? Could this be the cause of the needle bouncing? Anyone?

Before replacing the cable it bounced when it reached 60 mph. Now it is the other way around it bounces from 0 to 40 mph. My mechanic is asking me for the relation of the differential/ Final Drive Ratio? Its a 1972 240z with a 280z transmission with center forcé clutch. Anyone???

I will also need you to guide me on the parts i need to install the AC System. I already purchased the Vintage Air Gen II Mini evaporator and Sanden 508 compressor. I am now looking for the bracket to install the compressor on the 4 bolts found on the driver´s side of the 240z. Should i also get a Fan Shroud for the Champio 3 row radiator my car has?

I recently installed a Brand new speedometer cable to my 1972 240z with a 280z 5 speed transmission and it is bouncing between o to 40 mph. I dont think a Brand new cable needs any kind of oil? Could i be missing some part at either of the ends of the cable? Or is this an issue because of the 5 speed tranny?

When are you coming to Panama? How much can you offer? Should i leave the choke adjustment as the mechanic set it?

Thanks. I would go to the shop tomorrow. Hope i dont have to take the steering Wheel off after doing the alignment. By the way what i was thinking also of changing the 4 tires to ones with more "meat". I am using the following stock mag wheels: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-280Z-BLACK-PEARL-WHEEL-RIM-5-1-2-X-15-INCH-NISSAN-GOOD-CONDITION-RARE-/111439561343?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Wheels&hash=item19f250c27f&vxp=mtr What 14 inch tires would be recomendable? Jorge

My steering Wheel is at 11:00 a.m after all the suspensión bushings were changed. Do i need to take the car to alignment so that the steering Wheel sits at 12:00 p.m.? Will i need to remove the steering Wheel also after doing the alignment?

Finally i managed to replace the Far 311 Race Cam with the following smoother cam manufactured by Schneider: http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx I also changed the springs, .175 lash pads, retainers and rocker arms (the full kit). In addition to this my carbs were recently remanufactured by Z therapy in order to avoid any issues. I plan on installing an AC system so using a cam that went from 4500 to 8500 wouldnt work. Anyway, i just tested the car yesterday, and have a couple of queries on its performance: 1. The choke cable when pulled only reaches 1,500 RPM at idle. Is this okay or should it be adjusted to 3,000 RPM when pulled? With the Far 311 Race Cam i managed to pull it reaching 3,000 RPM. The mechanic says it should be kept until 1,500 RPM. 2. He set the RPM to 800 at idle to avoid high gas consumption. Should i raise it to 1,000 RPM using the fast idle screw? I really appreciate anyone´s feedback on this crucial issues. Jorge