Johnny wick

I need 4 of center caps for these wheels with the clips intact: Nissan Datsun 240Z 260z Original Wheels | eBay Can someone point out which center caps fit these wheels? Will the 280zx fit? or should i keep on seaching for the correct one? No luck yet.

Its a bit rough. The symptoms are the following: Start the engine, drive on free way and everything is fine. Under this circumstances it idles between 1,100 and 1,200 rpm. However, if i get caught in a heavy traffic jam the car starts stalling and decreasing from 1,100 to 800 rises again to 1,100 and occasionally goes to 500 rpm tending to shut the engine down. In this situation i reach to my destination and let the car idle at the parking. RPM starts lowering and eventually shuts down. It does start back again but i have to give it some gas pedal. I have already sprayed carb cleaner to all the hoses and connections looking for vacuum leaks and have found none. I did remove the EGR system including the servo diaphgram as it was broken as shown: Hope one of you can point me out to the correct direction so i can solve my problem.

Okay, Im just about to change this Far 311 Race Cam which was installed by DATSUNLLC and was advised the following: "a L26 crank makes your motor 79 mm stroke instead of the stock 73.7 mm stock bore is 83 mm for the L24 and the L26 motors your block has been bored out 1 mm to compensate for wear that makes your motor a 2.627 liter motor your E88 head from 1972 will give you about 8.7 to 1 compression FAR performance went out of business in 2002 so I have no cam specs 311 could be their advertised cam duration if it is the same as BRE 311------- BRE 240Z 311/C-1 cam: At 0.001" lift: In open 33 deg Bef TDC In close 66 deg Aft BDC Ex open 66 deg Bef BDC Ex close 33 deg Aft TDC IN Lift at TDC 0.108" Total Lift 0.463" At 0.050" lift: In open 14 deg Bef TDC In close 45 deg Aft BDC Ex open 45 deg Bef BDC Ex close 12 deg Aft TDC IN Lift at TDC 0.108" IN Lift Total 0.463" EX Lift at TDC 0.097" EX Lift Total 0.469" Okay, bottomline, my car is not presenting a smooth idle even though i removed the EGR system. So i believe i should go back and install a stock cam from a 1973 240z which i was sold from a friend. What else will i need. My main purpose is obtaining a smooth idle and being able to install an AC system to the car. Please advise what parts will i need besides the lash pads?

Just to let all of you know that i replaced the wáter temperature sensor, the old original thermostat housing and swapped the thermostat from 180° to 160°. I tested the car under heavy traffic on a hot day and the termperature in the gauge only raised to half and a Little bit to the right. Othewise it keeps under half. So this problem is solved!

I sprayed carb cleaner on each of the hoses and did not noticed any change on the idle speed. Can you address exactly where shall i spray directly the carb cleaner?

While looking for vacuum leaks which could be the main cause of the rough idling and stalling of my 240z i have decided to replace all of the fuel line and braided hoses in the engine compartment. I would like to buy high quality hoses. Does Black Dragon sell them? They do provide a good service. But i am looking for long lasting hoses. Which are the ones that are preformed and would need to be sourced overseas?

Im having a similar problem. My car has a Far 311 Race Cam which is dropping from 1,100 to 500 RPM whenever i get stuck on heavy traffic, stalls and then dies. I did indeed remove the EGR system as the Servo Diaphgram was damaged. According to one of the members this is what i really have in my car: "a L26 crank makes my motor 79 mm stroke instead of the stock 73.7 mm stock bore is 83 mm for the L24 and the L26 motors my block has been bored out 1 mm to compensate for wear that makes my motor a 2.627 liter motor your E88 head from 1972 will give you about 8.7 to 1 compression FAR performance went out of business in 2002 so I have no cam specs 311 could be their advertised cam duration if it is the same as BRE 311------- BRE 240Z 311/C-1 cam: At 0.001" lift: In open 33 deg Bef TDC In close 66 deg Aft BDC Ex open 66 deg Bef BDC Ex close 33 deg Aft TDC IN Lift at TDC 0.108" Total Lift 0.463" At 0.050" lift: In open 14 deg Bef TDC In close 45 deg Aft BDC Ex open 45 deg Bef BDC Ex close 12 deg Aft TDC IN Lift at TDC 0.108" IN Lift Total 0.463" EX Lift at TDC 0.097" EX Lift Total 0.469" HOW DO I SOLVE THIS IDLE PROBLEM? ANYONE?

My car has a recently installed Electric Fuel Pump! So this should not be the issue! I believe it must have a vacumm leak somewhere which is causing this rough idling. Any clues? How do i check for vacuum leaks? I did indeed removed the EGR system as the Servo Diaphgram was broken and thus avoid any leak. I attaching a picture of the system as it is.

Just got stucked in a traffic jam for 20 minutes on saturday, bumper to bumper. RPM tended to lower from 1,100 to 800 and then 500 RPM. Had to pull the choke or step on the gas so the car engine wont shut down. I know its difficult to idle on a car that has a race cam but how do i do then? I want to load an AC System on the car but with this type of idling issue it seems i am screwed up. Any advise on how to determine if the is some vacumm escape?

Madkaw, Im trying to get a solution without changing the Far 311 Race Cam back to the stock cam. Its gonna get really expensive if i need to revert to the original cam. Unfortunately in Panama there is a lot of traffic Jam and heat, you always get stucked in 20 to 30 minutes traffic and with this kind of cam i wont be able to install an AC System to the car.

Took my 240z for a spin yesterday and got into heavy traffic. RPM mantained at 1,100 in light traffic but once i started going bumper to bumper, the rpm started to lower to 800 rpm and the raised back to 1100. The car carries Datsun L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam and 2 original SU Hitachi round top carburetors rebuilt reason why it has a rough idle. Anyway,i would like to mention that i did cancel the EGR system and that the fast idle Actuator was removed as the diaphgram is broken: Could there be some air escape somewhere on the engine which is causing this RPM lowering. FInally when i reached to my destination point, i parked the car for some minutes at idle. The Rpm lowered to 500 and the car engine shut down. I would also like to mention that i can feel some failure of the engine when speeding up at 2000 RPM.

Can anyone send me the height and details between a 240z and 260z springs. Trying to purchase a set of rear OEM Factory used springs of a 260z and need to be sure they will give me the correct stock height on my 240z. Anyone has the information on the FSM? or a comparative chart?

So should i just cancel my order and request a refund? its 80 dollars! These are the springs i purchased from a 1974 260z with 32,000 miles :

Just scored a used stock set of 2 front and 2 rear springs from a 1974 260z with 32,000 miles on ebay. will i be able to replace the springs on my car with these ones? Even though they are from a 260z? Any difference in the height amongst both of these years?

Just called Dave! He ran out of stock! What other alternative do i have to achive stock height and ride?

What about Arizona Springs? Since i only need to two rear ones? http://www.arizonazcar.com/springs.html Should i purchase this set?

I still think the rear springs could be soft. The car does look low in the rear. What Brand of springs is recomendable? Eibachs? I want a smooth ride with the correct height of the car!

My 240z has an alternator has a 60 amp alternator upgrade. The ahmeter is not working, it dials in the middle. The fuel gauge does work. Where do i need to check? do i really need to take down the full dashboard to sort this out? Another thing i have read is that the ammeter shunt could be faulty? How do i check this? where is it located? I dont want to keep on spending money on second hand gauges if i can find the solution immediately. Anyone with this problem?

Well, Just to let all of you know that my car is finally is running smooth with no backfire. It has a Master branded electric fuel pump and a Dynomax Super Turbo 2 inlet and 2 outlet installed. Thanks for your great help!

These are the wheels i have installed on my 1972 Datsun 240z: Nissan Datsun 240Z 260z Original Wheels | eBay First of all i dont know what year are these wheels from. In one of the corners it states as Nissan branded. I want to restore them completely and would like to know what is the correct procedure. Do i use sandpaper? if so what grit or should i strive for Steel wool? I dont want to scratch them. What about the buffing machine? What product can i use for cleaning and polishing?

http://www.summitracing.com/int/search/product-line/mallory-comp-pump-fuel-pumps Summit advertises several models which one is the best for my car? I want perfect and powerfull flow for my car.

The fuel pump in my car is faulty it is just reaching 0.8 psi and 1.5 p.si at low rpm. I am planning on replacing it. This car has a L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam which makes this motor 79 mm stroke instead of the stock 73.7 mm stock bore is 83 mm for the L24 and the L26 motors. This block has been bored out 1 mm to compensate for wear and makes my motor a 2.627 liter motor. In view of the above i need a powerful and silent Electric Fuel Pump. I read the electric fuel pumps for Mazda RX7 are the ones recommended? Any other opinions?

HAHAHA! The mechanic tuned the car carbs again and changed 3 of the spark plugs that got damaged due to backfiring. The car was tested and had lost power. Thinking that the loss of power could be due to the bad muffler installation, he chopped down the exhaust and discovered it was the electric fuel pump that was failing. What Brand and type of Electric fuel pump can i order for my 240z which has a Far 311 race cam and 5 speed transmission from a 280z? I need a reliable and powerfull one.

How much? My car was made in January 1972

Ok. The car is already tuned up and three spark plugs have been replaced. The car lacks strenght anyhow. Will the Dynomax Super Turbo muffler work fine for this car? something in the exhaust may be causing the power restriction. Dynomax 17730 Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS