Johnny wick
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Everything posted by Johnny wick
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Last night the dashboard instrument lights, parking lights and tail lights on my 72 240z shut down when i turned the combo switch on. I noticed that the 15 amp fuse inside the fuse holder provided by Dave Irwin Parking light harness kit went south. Replaced it with another 15 amp and even a 20 amp fuse dashboard lights, tail lights and parking lights came in for 2 seconds and the fuse went out again. I believe the problem resides in the harness upgrade. Last time this happened i removed it from the circuit and connected the stock female and male 6 wire connectors together and all the lights came back. Could there be an issue with the relays provided in the kit? Should i just check the parking light bulbs first and clean for any corrosión before removing the steering colummn cover and making the straight stock connection again?
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Im having this same problem. My car has dave irwin parking light upgrade harness which keeps blowing the 15 amp fuse foun inside the fuse holder of the circuit. Should i take the harness out from the equation to eliminate the combo switch could be faulty or should i check all the parking bulbs first?
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What about long idling bumper to bumper? Shouldnt these car stand these situations?
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Heavy stop and go traffic 5 minutes per stop light
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Havent tested at idle yet.
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Result of plugs in order 1 2 3 4 5 6 stepping on the gas at 100 mph after changing brand new ngk blue spark plug wires and bosch rotor and cap.
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I changed rotor, cap and now spark plug wires (NGK Blue). Will test the car tomorrow morning.
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I need to get one of this. FIrst picture. Are they still NLA?
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Will install new wires today
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Anyway of buying this part period?
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No
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Mark i did tried the timing gun test and it only reads the timing marks when fastened to spark plug cable 1 and 6.
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Just receive a new set of NGK spark plug cables. Let me try them.
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Should i first attempt on bleeding the brakes and then see if the light goes off?
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Maybe i should try bleeding the brakes first
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Yes i guess its better not to mess with it. I was thinking of removing that hex nut and cleaning the innards but it i need to pull all the proportionate valve out from the car hen its risky business.
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Ill check on that. I did noticed that when i started driving the car the light randomly dissapeared but came back again when i parked the car. Really weird. Mean i can live with it but it should go off all the way.
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Hi, Just tested with black probe on negative battery terminal and the other on the bullet male connector. No beep meaning no continuity. However if i place the red probe on the bottom of the nut of the connector it does beep which means there is continuity.
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Well, this morninh i took my multimeter out and dial it to the continuity position. Placed red probe on the male bullet connector of the switch and the black one to the part that i circled in red. There was no beep which means that there is no continuity. What could be wrong here if i already cleaned the female and male connector with a brass wire brush?
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Thats done already.
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Waiting for them
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Would swapping to bp5es which is hotter plug solve the fouling issue at idle?
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I need to solve my black fouling at idle issue first before getting into this kind of stuff. I was thinking if using ngk bp5es plugs which are hotter will avoid the fouling at idle.
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Correct spark plug wires for L28 engine
Johnny wick replied to TomoHawk's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Im ordering a new set NGK blue wires from amazon. Hope it solves my fouling at idle problems. -
I have never either the tachometer or the speedometer from the dash to restore them.
