Johnny wick
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Everything posted by Johnny wick
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You want me to drop them to 4 turns clockwise? Isnt it too much?
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Tested the car today. 2 to 3 mins with choke on. Nice aceleration. No backfire on the intake or through the exhaust. I guess those ngk bp6es former plugs were damaged and even cleaning them with brass brush wouldnt help. I took some pics of the plugs for your approval on the mixture knobs turns. Right now i am at 3.5 turns clockwise both. Any need of readjusting the floats? Lowering the floats more?
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Ill drive it tonight again. I just dumped those fouled plugs in the trash. Questions: 1. How many times can you clean the spark plugs with a brass brush until they become useless? 2. Being stuck on traffic jams always fouls the plugs?
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Fouling the plugs damages them? No way to save them by brushing them with a brass brush?
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This is really weird. I swapped all the 6 spark plugs with a brand new ngk bp6es set and sprayed and cleaned the distributor cap, rotor and inner with deoxit d5. Viola! No more sputtering and coughing during the spin. No more rough accelaration. Just perfect. What could have been the cause???
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All plugs came out like this due to driving the car with full choke on to avoid misfire
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Maybe more fuel flow. Fuel pump psi is not working for me.
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Then there is a problem that my mechanic has not been able to identify.
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Just got 2 sets of Ngk bp6es. I will also check pertronix ignitor module air gap and will verify the plugs gaps.
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I think i should check the gap between the magnet and reader.
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Pertronix Ignitor 1761 install and coil evaluation
Johnny wick replied to akorna's topic in Electrical
Anyone knows what is the gap between the green tape magnet and reader on the pertronix ignitor module? -
.32 from stock
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How much will you gap them? .31 or .35 or is this irrelevant?
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Why??? I have already cleaned the carbon deposits with a brass brush and still when driving the car the idle is rough.
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well it does start but it takes a lot of gas pedal to start. Anyway i cleaned all the plugs with a brass brush before cranking it and drove it slowly with the choke on for 10 minutes. Aceleration is still rough. It misfires a lot and now even with both idle screws at 3,70 turns clockwise whenever you accelerate you can hear the car backfire through the carbs. Major disapointment. I measured the fuel pressure and its still at 3 psi. Once i returned home, i sprayed carb cleaner to the carbs and intake manifold and did not notice any vacuum leaks. There is something not clear here.
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I tried for .55 inch and it was still lean. The gap should be at less than that.
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What psi are you getting from this pump? I have the same and only get 3.2 psi.
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2.5 to 3 psi runs fine?
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Also tell him that this same airtex 8012sx elextric pump used to push 4.2 psi in the past and that i did not had any stumbling or coughing even at cold starts.
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I really dont want to keep on messing with the floats. if they are okay.
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If you took off the choke engine starts to sputter and cough.
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It ran horrible. 15 minutes with the choke lever pulled at half and still you could listen to rough acceleration. I was thinking that i should test it again with a new set of ngk bp6es plugs tomorrow and see how it behaves before opening the float bowls again.
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The wooden stick does come out wet when the choke is pulled at 2.5 turns clockwise.
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Okay i will replace the airbox filter and fire it up. Choke fully on until it reaches half of the temp gauge. I thought the aim was to get 1/16th ince which equals to 1.58 mm under the hole of the nozzle.
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So should i open both front and rear float lids and keep on bending the tang more or should i test the car now that i adjusted the rear carb choke cable?
