Johnny wick

well which reproduction would yo recommend? the shop says they cut it under the bumper guards and then Weld it together!

My 1972 240z has both the original bumpers and bumper guards. I have already rechromed the 4 bumper guards and they were finished nicely. Nevertheless, the chrome on the rear bumper on my 1972 240z is already worn due to its age and lack of maintenance of its previous owners. Is it recommedable to rechrome the full bumper or should i buy a new one. The shop that rechromes in Panama charges US$275.00 and needs the cut the bumper as it does not fit completely in the chroming tub. I have read that the new ones have issues and are made in taiwan and not the same size and quality as the original ones. Is this true? They also have fitting issues!

okay i thought that for this type of camshaft the recomendable idle timing was 12 BTDC and no more than that! Now i remember that when i bought the car the previous owner had a twice pipe installed and a FAR 311 race cam and it didnt pop on or backfire on deceleration! Just the straight twice pipe kit period and no popping whatsover! THis takes the reduced back pressure cause out of the list! http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19i/15-6031 Anyone???

I really cant believe this is happening. I am going back to the shop that restored and painted the car 1 year ago! This is a Brand new seal sold by www.vintagerubber.com How come i am experiencing 2 leaks on a US$110 rubber seal???? Is it normal to have these kind of leaks with Brand news seals and of the highest quality? http://www.vintagerubber.com/images/view.aspx?productId=38

So ill guess there is no point of activating the fasten seatbelt light if i am purchasing msa seatbelt kit.

Well the two last options have not solved my decel backfire. Im at 11 btdc and had already tested lowering to 2.5 turns in the past and the problem persists.

This is what i have on my engine. I guess since you have the original camshaft and the original engine you are not experiencing any pop. I also noticed some hot air leaking from the union between the manifold to the downpipe. Could fixing this solve the decel popping?

What exahust do you have? I used to have the stock exhaust with a resonator in the middle and a dynomax muffler at the end as per the pictures attached. It had no deceleration backfire even with a 4 turn clockwise ( 4 turns left) when releasing the gas pedal in 2nd and 3rd gear. My cam is a Schneider 274F as my car engine has been modified to 2.6L by PO. After installing the MSA Premium Stock exhaust for stock manifold i am experiencing lots of popping when releasing the gas pedal on 2nd and 3rd geat. PO also eliminate smog pump and all emission crap. http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx Timing is set at 11 BTDC. Any clues? I will verify all the flange gaskets once again as i still suspect a leak between the manifold to the downpipe. I felt some hot air blowing at that union last week. Maybe i can drop some wáter and soap in that área to verify. Anyone????

Dash cap???

Thanks for the advice.

Im not sure. My car sat for 4 months without having the engine crank while it been restored and paint. However, when they try to start the engine they argued that the floats were stucked and had to open the bowls.

3.5 turns front and rear carb. Spark plug 2 and 5. Still lean??? Car is running fine! If so what color should they be? Or should i let the car idle for 5 minutes and then verify them?

This is the one i have and came with the full weathestrip set of my 1972 240z: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81850-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B000HBI9EQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498514758&sr=8-2&keywords=permatex+super+weatherstrip+adhesive Should i use the one that you recommend instead?

A what?? Bit?? Its perfect .55 or 9/16" as per the sheet supplied by Ztherapy!! I am not opening does float bowls again and damage another cork gasket!

Well i have a 2 leaks and i bought from www.vintagerubber.com no sealant though!! Do i need to use permatex orange box sealant??

Yesterday was a rainy day. Drove my 240z for a while and discovered 2 water leaks on the rear window. All my gaskets are new and were bought to vintage rubber which is supposed to be high quality. How can i fix this???

Okay 3.5 turns to the left which means i have lowered the jet 3.5 turns from the starting point. Car runs better idle more stable and the temperature while driving is lower also. Still deceleration backfire where releasing the gas pedal while shited in 2nd and 3rd gear. Not on 4th or 5th gear.

Well im at 3.5 turns clockwise and this is how its burning the plugs.

Please let me know if staying with the sm needles is better or swapping them with n27

very far off! see the first picture and the second one!

Just opened the float chambers of both carbs. The level on both of them were wrong. I have set them to 9/16 as per ztherapy sheet. Cant believe they were that wrong.

No. Race means to take a drive at the highway at 80 mph fot 10 mins shut the car and inspect plugs.

It looks better than this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F46VJ4U?ref_=sr_1_2&qid=1497022242&sr=8-2&keywords=wideband o2 sensor kit&pldnSite=1 Do you concur??

No. I will ask my cam is a Schneider 274F and im not changing it!! Its weird it did not pop on deceleration with the former exhaust system: http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx

damn it! now im buying a 12 NGK BP6ES Spark plugs gap them at .032, install them and race the car again following the QUICK SU DIRTY TUNING