Johnny wick

Yes both of my SU carbs were remanufactured completely from scratch by BRUCE PALMER and have SM N27 needles. I am using Automatic Transmission Fluid as carb fluid oil. Nobody seems to have a solution for this strange problem as it only happens when the car is sitting under the sun at idle!

Should i replace the fuel rail that is fastened to the cam cover with other type of hoses? I have already wrapped it with a heat isolation cloth as per the second picture. Problem is still there. Once in traffic for more tan 15 minutes idle starts to fluctuate from 900 to 200 rpm randomly as temperature starts to rise. Once you place your foot on the accelerator it starts to become stable. Thats the reason i try to use the car only during night or on Sunday as there is no traffic. If this is the solution, i would like to invest in nice hoses and fuel rail as the last picture shown. Do you concur??? Anyone else?

The plugs fouled dry black. I cleaned them with a brass brush. however i shouldnt be doing this as the heat extensions i installed and provided by the youtuber were manufactured to solve this idle drop problem when sitting on traffic jam. As stated before I parked the car and opened the engine door so heat started to get out. i took one picture of the fuel filter once i opened the engine bay and took another one after a couple of minutes running the car parked in idle. the rpm started to become stable at 800 to 900 rpm and did not dropped. So i think i still need to move forward and swap the metal fuel line with a modern approach rubber hose or remove the fan clutch and install a dual fan with shroud kit and relay. I would like your opinión on this. I want to feel secure if i get stuck in traffic and tackle this issue which is surely percolation and nothing else! I even took out all the spark plugs and they were all fouled. I will not drive the car with the front Hood open, there must be a solution to get the heat out at traffic jams.

this is correct. The guy in the video fabricated too nice heat shields for me and send them by post. At least the car rpms drop to 200 and rise but the car does not stall when it is under the sun on heavy traffic. Now we need to move on with a nice hose replacing the rail. Any comments on this:

Jeff and Siteunseen, After getting caught on traffic, couple of traffic lights and other stops, the car idle started to drop randomly from 900 to 200 rpm, however it never stalled. This means the heat shields i installed are helping get the heat out as its avoiding the fuel to evaporate at the fuel bowls. I parked the car and opened the engine door so heat started to get out. i took one picture of the fuel filter once i opened the engine bay and took another one after a couple of minutes running the car parked in idle. the rpm started to become stable at 800 to 900 rpm and did not dropped. So i think i still need to move forward and swap the metal fuel line with a modern approach rubber hose. I would like your opinión on this. I want to feel secure if i get stuck in traffic and tackle this issue which is surely VAPOR LOCK and nothing else! I even took out all the spark plugs and they were all fouled. I will not drive the car with the front Hood open, there must be a solution to get the heat out at traffic jams.

Thanks,

Well i am still struggling with the Shop to get it aligned!!!

i bought the Vintage rubber kit which is supposed to be the best quality all around!! My question is do i need to adjust the rear Fender??? cutting it and aligning it?

please look at the RH rear fender. Isnt it bent and not aligned? I think it should be straightened so it aligns with the door.

looks fine?? I dont think so? I just called the new manager in charge and he says the shop has a seizure order to freeze all the assets inside of it, including cars that have been taken for repair by many owners. I believe my legal actions will not lead me anywhere. Need to get this solved.

Recently noticed the Paint shop that charged me US$4,750 for restoring my car did not aligned the rear fenders with the doors. They are arguing that they were aligned before installing the doors seals. I have a 6 month guarantee on the job done but unfortunately the owner of the shop died two weeks after my car was delivered and now they do not want to answer phone calls and honor the guarantee. In this sense, i will proceed legally against them and ask them to appear for a citation at the consumers protection board. Anyway, i still need to fix my car and have posted the pictures to see if someone can instruct me on how to get this straight. will i need to cut and solder back both fenders?

Well im back with this issue! My speedometer is bouncing between o to 10 mph now! I can swap it with another speedometer i purchased on ebay to see if the problem is sorted out! Any other recommedations to solve this silly bouncing. The pinion gear is also Brand new as it was replaced this year.

let me see where i can get this plastic loom!!! Thanks for the safety confirmation issue!

thanks

Ok Dave. Just installed the pair of speaker cables through the same hole and fished them in front of the evaporator tank. Any danger of leaving these speaker cables this way or should i wrap them with wire loom? I am concerned because they are just near the evaporator tank as per the picture. Am i risking my safety, any posible combustion?

any OEM fuel rail replacement substitution available? Any kit that comes with AN1 hoses?

in conclusion the original speaker wires that were connected to the original rear speaker on the rear driver side are routed in the same path as the tail lights? Is there any danger on passing these wires near the vapor tank or should i route them all the way around from the driver side under the dash, thus avoiding the vapor tank, down to the floor and through the left interior panel? In the picture you provide it looks as a 1971 model and not a 1972. Any tool necessary to fish the new wires?

i have the MSA rear speaker panel installed already (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-5351). I just want to know if the speaker wires for both speakers need to go under the transmission tunnel trim and thorugh two holes the Previous owner had drilled on the car chassis above the luggage riser trim. Which is the correct and neat way of routing??

Does anyone know how do i need to route the wires that go to the rear speaker panel sold by MSA in the trunk of the car? I will be installing the transmission tunnel vinyl trim and would not like to miss the correct routing of the rear speaker panel. I only found this diagram on the web but it tells me nothing. i think the routing of the front speaker is really straight forward.

Well last night i intalled a couple of heat shield extensions which isolate the float bowls of each of my Round top SU Carbs. It seems to have lowered the temperature! Any other recommendations?? swapping the fan clutch with 2 electric fans? removing the fuel rail and replacing it with a modern type with other type of gasoline hoses (AN1) as the picture attached??? My fuel pressure is at 4.3 to 4.5 psi.

Also have this same problem! Nobody seems to know the answer!!

I was advised by my mechanic to lower the pressure from 4.5 psi to 4.0 psi using one of these MALPASSI FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR AND FILTER: http://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/malpassi-pro-fuel-carburettor-pressure-regulators/malpassi-filter-king-fuel-pressure-regulators/ Which model shall i purchase: Malpassi 67mm Filter King With Glass Bowl 8/6 mm Unions Part Number FPR004 or; Malpassi 85mm Filter King With Glass Bowl 8mm Unions Product Code: FPR006 Need to get this sorted out today. Will appreciate any feedback in the correct direction.

yes!

I am thinking of replacing my original metal fuel rail with a rubber hose or else as a modern approach to combat vapor lock. I already have the heat shield extensions covering the bottom of my SU CARBS fuel bowls thus isolating the heat from the manifold. What will be the recomendable replacement for the metal fuel rail that is fastened to the engine?? Any pictures? measures and routing?

Just measured the PSI from the AIRTEX 8012S which is labeled as 5.5 to 9 psi. It is really pushing 4.3 to 4.5 psi, so dont trust on what these pumps advertise. I was recommended to get a King fuel filter regulator to lower it a Little bit. However, will this solve my vapor lock issue? Yesterday my car stopped 3 times while driving. VAPOR LOCK period. Nobody seems to come with a solution!