Johnny wick

no longer backfires!!! runs great over 2000 rpms. the problem is between 1000 to 2000 rpms. Slight hesitation and back and forth shaking! Do you recommend getting the following pressure regulator so i can lower to 4 psi: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-2985

Still in need of the following parts before painting my 1972 240z: Complete striker plates with rubber gaskets (LH * RH) and shims LH AND RH Doors dovetail Rear Hatch Dovetails Small plugs from the rear hatch. Any upgrades on better quality parts than the original ones?

The way the engine runs??? THis only happens in first or second gear after releasing the clutch and acellerating when rising from 1000 to 2000 rpms Or if you pass through a broken road or pavement very slow under 2000 rpms.

Okay. Im not driving to Texas. Car is going for paint job in 2 weeks so i need to sort this out with your help. What pictures and infromation do you need so i can post it immediately? Do you think the float bowls need adjustment, could this be the cause of the hesitation below 2000 rpms?

Fuel pressure was measured at the fuel line of the rear carb two days ago an it was measuring around 5 to 5.5 psi. The car does present some hesitation or stumbling when accelarating in first gear or passing through any bumpy road at low speed. I already changed the differential mount but it was not the problem. Need to sort the following issues as soon as posible: 1. Stinky gasoline smell up front even though no flooding off the float bowls. 2. Reduce fuel pressure to 4 psi. 3. Eliminate the back and forth shaking, hesitation or stumbling when accelerating under 2,000 rpms in first gear. 4. Fouling of plugs at idle at traffic jams or intersections, which eventually will cause rough idle and stalling. Float levels where set by Ztherapy when they sent the carburetors back from rebuilt. They advice not to open or touch the float bowls. Please advise.

Stock SU CARBS pressure is anywhere from 3.5 to 4.3 so i will need a regulator for any pump over 4.3 psi. If I run too high of a fuel pressure, the fuel bowl or well will be too pressurized which won't let the needle/seat assembly stay seated at idle or low speed when the carb doesn't require more fuel. The result will be a stinky rich fuel mixture and you'll be fouling plugs left and right while having a stumbling idle. Can´t stand the stinky fuel mixture and the fouling at idle. WHich fuel pressure regulator is recommended? Holley, Mr. Gasket?????? I need a secure one which will not let any gas out and is safe!!

JAJAJAJA, Just teasing!!

outside the tank only? or should i rinse the tank and clean it inside? i dont manage to see any rust on the clear fuel filter. Please advise!

WHich Brand and type of fuel pressure regulator will you recommend for an Airtex 8012s fuel pump so i can lower it to 4 psi? Even though i have no fuel overflood at the float chambers, i want to follow the specifications correctly.

Should i just ask for 904 code at any PPG distributor locally?

Which is the best supplier of all this small rubber parts for the engine bay and rest of the car? Who has the best quality and replica?

Planning on painting my car on White 904 color as the original paint. Should i just go to a paint shop and ask for Nissan Code 904 in PPG?? Will i be able to find this exact color or should i strive for an upgrade in White keeping the classic look? What else will i need? http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/

Okay! Just ordered the following kit of POR-15 through a contact i have in Miami: http://www.por15.com/FLOOR-PAN-TRUNK-KIT_p_61.html and a can of blue paint for the engine! Will i need some other POR-15 product?

BenC´s question has not been responded! Will the airtex 8012s as shown in the post keep to float bowl full all the time, do you need to remove the Steel stock filter it comes with and replace it with a FRAM G2 filter? Cant believe there is not a better electric fuel pump than this one. I bought a carter p60504 in the past and it did not had enough pressure: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-p60504/overview/ Is the Fram G2 filter better and less flow restrictive than the Mr. Gasket clear glass fuel filter??

Well just replaced the pump with a Brand new Airtex 8012s! At first the car was still having problems on accelaration presenting some backfire. I pull the 6 spark plugs out and clean them with a brass wire brush and electronic contact cleaner. The car still lacked power and was backfiring at the intake of the carbs. Sincé i had 3 spare Brand new NGK BP6ES spark plugs on the glove box i replaced spark plugs 4, 5, and 6 (rear carb) and power came back. I did tightened all the screws of the braided hose that go to from the balance tube to the vac brake booster. Do you think this NGK spark plugs get so fouled that even after cleaning them, they become useless and you need to replace them???

Okay on the left is a picture of the airtex 8012s which i believe has its own filter to its left side as show in the photo. Correct me if i am wrong. On the right is a Brand new fuel filter made in russia for my 1972 240z. I believe my mechanic left the vehicle on accesories without the engine running for a short time and now the pump is not pushing enough fuel to the carbs. Should i purchase another pump of this same Brand?? THis is the 3rd one i will buy and shall i place another fuel filter after its metal filter to avoid the pump damaging again? Isnt there a more reliable fuel pump maybe made in Japan? Is this filter okay or should i buy a FRAM fuel filter?

Question: How many minutes or seconds should the electric fuel pump be left in accesory before cranking the engine? If it is left on accesory for more than 30 seconds could it fail or become dirty and not pump the same pressure of fuel as when it was new?? I have an airtex 8012s installed and it seems it is no longer pushing the same pressure as even though the fuel filter looks full the car has lost power and it is backfiring at the carbs intake. http://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8012S-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000DT7Y7A/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1456071096&sr=1-1&keywords=airtex+8012s+fuel+pump

okay i like this filter. Regarding the fuel lines, i would like to see potos of the the AN style braided hose. Can you provide some and how much feet of the braided hose shall i buy?

Chickenman, Thanks for all the wonderfull pieces of advice. My car was running nice the other day but i had to leave it at the shop for master cylinder and brake booster swap. Anyway, i just picked it up and driving it home the car he car had lost power and was backfiring at the intake. Mechanic said he did not touch the fuel mixture in any of the carbs as it had nothing to do with the brake system. I guess he could have left the airtex 8012s electric pump running at accesory. Even though the fuel filter is full as shown could the electric pump have damaged? http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/atx-e8012s/overview/ Are these pumps so frágile that if you leave them on for more than 30 seconds without turning the engine on they could damage immediately?? this will be the third pump i buy. This one lasted 6 months. Do you recommend buying the same pump again and additional plastic fuel filter ro place besides the pump near the gas tank?

Should i stay away from Shops that do not have sand blasting machines??? Wire brush and hand tools will not work???

Im delivering the car to the shop on the second week of March. I just found out the shop does not have a sand blasting machine and they will take the rust out using wire brush and some other hand tools. What a pitty! Anyway, i will need to contact another shop that does carry a sand blaster or else setlle with this as this is what we have in Panama!

What will be a substitute for POR15 as Anti Rust? In Panama, we are able to get the following: CRC SOFT SEAL http://www.crcindustries.com.au/products/corrosion-protection-and-inhibitors/soft-seal-corrosion-inhibitor Will this work as anti rust instead of POR15???

I would like to know what i am missing in this list and since i wont be able to find POR15 here in Panama what will be an excellent high quality anti rust paint?

Thanks! just finished!

I took my 1972 240z to a shop for quotation on repair and paint. They have quoted me US$4,500.00 and have asked me to purchase the following materials to mention: - 2 gallons of plastibond -1 gallon of base according to its catalyzer -1 gallon of PPG monopaint -1/4 of black paint -1 221 sealer tube -1 roll of wire -1/2 yard of Wood sanding paper n° 40 -1/2 yard of Wood sanding paper N°80 -1 roll of 50 feet paper -2 gallons of thinner I do not see any anticorrosive paint in this list such as POR-15. Hence, I have the following questions: 1. In the event i cant manage to find POR-15 locally what can be a used as substitute? 2. Is PPG one of the best paint around 3. Am i missing anything on the list? 4. I have attached pics here where the rust is noticeable on the surface. How shall it be treated? Shall it be cut and new metal soldered with mig?