Johnny wick

Mark, Thanks for the advice. The car does run nice at 10BTDC even though it has a Schneider 274F Cam which i was recommended to set to 12BTDC. I dont think the difference will help the engine run cooler. I have an AC installed so no heater control or Factory blower to depend on. How much shall i pay for a machinist to clean the crud build up and what kit or parts shall i order if he will need to carry out this task. Will i need to purchase a Brand new Champion 4 row radiator also?

the person i bought this car supposedly had the engine overhauled by Datsun LLC with the following description: Vehicle Insight PerTronix Ignition Kit with new coil Electric fuel pump Recent rebuilt Engine Recent rebuilt 5 speed transmission from 280Z with new Center Force 1 clutch with stainless steel clutch hose New Twice Pipes Exhaust 60-Amp Alternator upgrade kit New fuse box New Fan belt with new upper and lower Radiator hoses New 3 row Aluminum Race Radiator New Plug Wires New Thermostat and oil pressure sender New brake system with stainless steel brake lines New struts Rebuild Carbs Driver's Insight The current owner of this classic 1972 240Z has authorized us to put it up for sale. He has owned the car since 1997; the car has been garaged the past 15 years. The car has had a complete mechanical refresh and is ready for final restoration. The engine and transmission have less than 6000 miles on them. The following is a list of upgrades or modifications made to the car: New Datsun L24 motor has crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam Could Datsun LLC have missed getting the gunk out of the car? How much will it cost me to accomplish this cleaning? Ive already spent US$6,000 in parts and labor and still have the rough idle, stalling and overheating problems since day one!! I could have bought 3 engines with all the money spent!!

Okay, finally decided to pick up my1972 240z from the mechanic. Charged me US$160 for changing the fan clutch, thermostat, wrapping heat shield cloth on the fuel lines and replacing wáter pump. He also changed the exhaust manifold pipe gasket. Car timing was set at 10BTDC. Car ran fine. No backfire either from intake or exhaust. However, once i reached home while playing with the car stereo temperature started to rise until reached 3/4. RPM dropped from 1000 to 500 and then raised to 1000 again. A few seconds later it stalled and i had to crank it again. It does the same at intersections and while at idle on traffic lights. Took out all plugs and cleaned them. I guess i will need to take the radiator out and flush it completely. The problem clearly has to do with heat. What a waste of money and time. Any opinions on how to solve this or should i just hang the towel and hire an expert from this fórum to come to Panama and fix my car??? What is the going hourly rate?? The car has the stock carb heat metal shield also installed. Am i also missing another part?

Patcon, Found this video and will follow his advice. No more spending money in wáter pumps or coils or whatsoever! This guy describes exactly my problem even though i differ from him regarding the fans. I want to keep the stock fan and the fan shroud. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6wGuYBiRLw

i will tell him to check. I have a 3.0 0hm pertronix coil connected to a 1761 Petronix module. Ballast resistor is being bypassed. I dont think the coil is bad! I will need to check the radiator coolant. How many degrees for the Nissan Thermostat? 160?

33 degrees Celsius; humidity is very high at about 80 percent!!!

Mechanic tested the car this morning on heavy traffic after changing the fan clutch (NIssan OEM Fan clutch) and Water Pump (Paraut) Japanese Brand. He had also adjusted all the valves to .010. Once in traffic the temperature started to rise and the idle became rough tending to stall. He is now trying to sort this issue. Im glad this happened to him while testing as i am not paying a single dime until this issue is solved. I am really getting frustrasted! As i am in the middle of a crossroads with no solution to this overheat, rough idle and stalling. Isnt this a Vapor Lock issue even though i have an Airtex Electric Fuel Pump installed near the gas tank?

Replies to questions: 1. I have a pertronix 1761 distributor with a 3.0 0hms pertronix coil with new cap and rotor! 2. I am using NGK BP6ES spark plugs gapped at .031 3. i have a Bosch 60 amp internally regulated alternator. 4. i use 95 octane fuel 5. the distributor shaft is not loose! 6. My cam is a 274F Schneider cam: http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx

thanks!!!

Okay here are the additional pictures including the engine with the valve cover off and the airtex 8012s electric fuel pump which is pumping 4psi!! Mechanic insists the compression is good. He adjusted the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 back to .010. The rpm drop in said cylinder is not that noticeable as in the other 5 cylinders when you pull the spark plug wire off. Is this okay?

MSA PREMIUM EXHAUST 70-72?? Stainless Steel or not?

CHickenman, Please apologize for not sending these pictures earlier. I believe the Heat Shield is under the carbs as you can see from one of the pics hereby attached. Also my car has an electric fuel pump installed near the gas tank and is measuring 4psi! Do you think vapor lock could be the problem? I have a Champion 3 row radiator and an electric fan that turns on when the ac is engaged!

Can you specify which pictures you need and from where exactly? Do you want pictures of the cam with the valve cover off??

Mechanic is still checking valves opening on 4th and 5th cylinder! He says the compression on cylinder 4 is the highest of all and that is the one where the exhaust valve had to be opened to .013 for the car to change the idle when pulling the spark plug off cylinder 4. If compression is good and no leaking or warped valve, why is the car idling erratic tending to stall after car warms up and shutting down when stuck in traffic??

The car is back with the mechanic. The backfire was eliminated by setting the Timing to 10BTDC at idle. Now i have to tackle with the shutting down when the car is in heavy traffic and the plugs getting black at idle. He will need to adjust the valve to .010 and see what happens.

Does anybody knows what is the size and lenght of the screw and washer needed to hold the position of the distributor once the timing is set??? I know it comes out with an 8mm wrench. NISSAN 22750-H2300, SCREW KIT: Anyone??

Thanks for your advice Chickenhead. However, i wanted to comment my car presented the following symptoms today: Accelerating fine at high rpms but whenever it got stuck in 2 to 3 minutes traffic jam, the idle started to become erratic to a point the rpm fell to 100 RPM and suddenly the engine stalled. I had to pull the choke up or keep the foot in the accel pedal to avoid the car from stalling. The car stalled 3 times, Could this be due to the fact that the exhaust valve on cylinder number 4 was opened to .013 with the purpose of running on 6 cylinders as mentioned on my former post number 42! I guess i will need to perform another compression test as i am beginning to suspect there could possibly be a burnt or warped valve somewhere. What directions should i take first before spending money on new valves and seats?

Im having this same precise problem, My car is a 1972 240z with a Schneider 274F Camshaft and remanufactured SU Carbs by Ztherapy!!! Also have pertronix ignitor and have set the Distributor timing to 11 BTDC. Please note i have also removed all the emmissions crap including the antibackfire valve from the balance tube. Should i lower the timing to 10 BTDC at idle to avoid the sudden gunshot when decelerating?

what type of screws would you use to cap all the holes in the stock balance tuve? Stainless Steel or Bronze? Would you slide some teflón tape on the threads?

flat head

So with my 274F Schneider Camshaft which is still a Street cam i do need an electrical solenoid! Where do i get one, where do i install it and how do i fabricate the base is the issue!!

Chikenman, Thanks for your kind advice. I think Captain Obvious is persuading me to forget about all the Throttle opener control valve and the Servo Diaphgram fastened to the balance tube. Maybe i should just remove those parts leaving the balance tube clean of crap and raise the idle screws on both carburtors to 1100 RPM. Do any of both of those parts have an effect on the car´s driveability for example when decelerating (removing the foot from the acceletor pedal) the car sometimes backfires. I wanted to keep them but if they are non functional, i will remove them right away and get some bronze screws to close the holes.

Just took a picture of what i have on top of my balance tube. If someone here has fabricated a base to mount a solenoid that can raise the idle without getting in the middle of the vacuum issues, i would like to follow said route!

Well if anyone knows of a better option than the MSA Premium exhaust for stock manifold but stainless Steel, please let me know:. I want a real sporty sound producing low tones.

These guys at Ztherapy are brilliant. I got mine fully overhauled also! Shiny as diamond!