Johnny wick

Are these seals the same for a 240z? http://www.vintagerubber.com/datsun240z-PassDoorGlassSeal.aspx http://www.zcarsource.com/door-window-channel-felt-upper-240z-260z-280z-70-78-new_8_56659_63784.HTML I would not like to buy the same seal again through a different provider as i already bought the window channel felt upper and lower! Please confirm.

Okay this is the supposed "squeegee": http://www.zcarsource.com/door-upper-molding-rubber-seal-240z-260z-280z-70-78-new_8_56661_197483.HTML Which is the other part you specify?

Are you sure i will only need these two additional seals for both doors asides from the aforementioned contents of the basic resto kit?

Bought the Basic Resto kit from Vintage Rubber! Excellent Quality! Windshield Seal - **Your Choice 1 Rear Glass Seal - **Your Choice 1 Door Weatherstrip RH- fits on body with pinch welding 1 Door Weatherstrip LH- fits on body with pinch welding 1 Lower Door Weatherstrip RH/LH- fits on door 2 Outer Quarter Glass Seal RH/LH 2 Inner Quarter Glass Seal RH/LH 2 Hood to Cowl Seal 1 **Upper Outer Hatch Seal 1 **Outer Lower Hatch Seal RH/LH 2 Inner Hatch Weatherstrip 1 Door to Fender Seal- RH 1 Door to Fender Seal- LH 1 Hatch Hinge Seal 2 Besides from the Window Fuzzy will i need to purchase any other seal to completely restore both doors?

i removed the heater box and blower in order for the Vintage Air Gen II mini kit to fit.

Thanks Mark! Finally i am running on all six! The valve was tight at .008 and in order for the feeler gauge to slide perfectly without pushing it he had to open it to .013

Okay Mark. Just came back from the mechanic! We spent like 2 hours inspecting all the valves. Most of them were adjusted to .010 with the exception of the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 which is the one that is not changing the idle when removing the spark plug wire. Mechanic then decided to open it to .012 and now it does change the idle if you remove the spark plug wire. Could one of the rocker arms that i bought Courtesy Nissan be warped or not straight enough? I paid like US$300 for the full OEM Nissan set. Please advise! I am driving the car and dont hear any backfire either on the intake or exhaust!

Kenwood all the way! Usb port and bluetooth, No more time burning cds!!

Mark, To give you more information regarding my 1972 240z: The camshaft installed is a Schneider 274-F,with new valve springs, retainers and .175 Lash Pads. I also changed to new nissan oem rocker arms. The specifications of this cam are the following: Intake Duration (gross): 274 Exhaust Duration (gross): 274 Intake Duration (.050”): 215 Exhaust Duration (.050”): 215 Intake Valve Lift*: .480" Exhaust Valve Lift*: .480" Intake Valve Lash: .008" Exhaust Valve Lash: .010" RPM Range: 1800-6000 2. My car has a L26 crank which makes the motor 79 mm stroke instead of the stock 73.7 mm stock bore is 83 mm for the L24 and the L26 motors. My block has been bored out 1 mm to compensate for wear that makes my motor a 2.627 liter motor and has a E88 head from 1972 will give about 8.7 to 1 compression I have a pertronix 1761 ignitor installed in the stock distributor. Any other information that can help you diagnose and solve my cylinder 4 issue?

Just found the female connector, plug it and voila, Choke light working again!!

WHere exactly on top of the balance tube? I bought one a year ago and dont know how to plug it in to measure the vacuum leak?

Mark, Just woke up this morning and took a picture of the last 3 cylinders. As you can see Cylinder N°4 is the darkest one! I did close the rear carburetor by 1/8 of a turn to lean it a Little bit more: I guess the car stalled because plug 4 is completely fouled as you can see in the separate picture. The cap, rotor and plug cables are new. Questions are: 1. Could this valve be to tight and needs to be adjusted? 2. Why if i remove the spark plug wire from cylinder 4 i cannot notice any change in idle while with the othe 5 plugs it is noticeable? Even with a Brand new plug? Your advice if greatly appreciated! I will be taking the car for valve readjustment this saturday!

Drove the car last night, arrived to a location, turned the engine off and after 15 minutes started the car again but when reaching to the first intersection the car stalled and died. I will check again on spark plug number 4 to see if its fouling. With the compression results i have posted here do you think one of the valves could be warped or burned?

the bad E8012S Airtex pump does work but makes less noise compared to this new one! I just connected it to the 12 V battery and it does work. What other test shall i perform?

Does anyone knows what could be the main causes for the electric fuel pump to get toasted, damaged or loose pressure? If you leave the car with the radio on and the fuel pump running i guess this would ruin the fuel pump! I have replaced an Airtex 8012S twice this year due to the lost of fuel pressure!

Ill check on that! The distributor cap and rotor are Brand new! Im using a Pertronix 1761 ignitor and 3.0ohms distributor bypassing the stock ballast resistor! THe NGK blue cables are Brand new also! The Airtex 8012S electric pump is pumping great without overflooding the float valves of the SU Carbs.

I Heard a clip on YouTube of the MSA Premium exhaust for stock manifold. Nice sound! If i decide to get something more pricey and fully stainless Steel what will be the recommendation for same stock 1972 manifold? Borla or Magnaflow? What model?

THe compression test showed the following results: cylinder 6 --------------------- 175 psi cylinder 5 --------------------- 180 psi cylinder 4---------------------- 180 psi cylinder 3 ---------------------- 185 psi cylinder 2 ---------------------- 180 psi cylinder 1 ---------------------- 180 psi Any way i do notice that when i remove the spark plug terminal from cylinder number 4 there is no change in the idle while with the other cylinder there is a noticeable drop of rpm. What could be the problem with cylinder 4? Anyone? Spark plug is still getting black. Car is now backfiring at the exhaust every once in a while.

What is the correct procedure of removing the center console on a 1972 240z? Should i just first remove the shift knob, the boot and the 4 screws that hold it to the transmission tunnel? I dont have to remove the heater control panel to accomplish this? I believe the choke light cable was not connected to the choke lever when the choke lever bracket was installed. Need to check! Anyone?

THe shop that installed the Vintage Air Gen II mini evaporator kit and Sanden 508 Compressor removed these Defrost Vents from my Dash! Was this really necessary? Were these Defrost Vent Duct connected internally to the heater box and fasten to the dashboard top? Any problem on having left these vents out of the dash??? Please note the heater box was removed so the evaporator could fit.

I have been monitoring any over spill and have not noticed any spill yet. My mechanic says the valves on cylinder 4 need adjustment. Lets see if once they are adjusted, i can manage to tune it correctly and all plugs burn equal.

Okay Mark. The car was not receiving enough fuel. The mechanic replaced the Airtex 8016S electric fuel pump (2.5 to 4 psi) with a 8012S model (5 to 9 PSI). He did commented that cylinder 4 is not working properly as it is burning too black and that maybe he will need to adjust the valves. I just hope the valve is not burned or warped! Anyway i bought a set of NGK BP6ES spark plugs and this was the result after i raced the car for 5 to 6 minutes this Sunday. Spark plug 4 is still getting dark while 5 and 6 seem okay. Do you recommend purchasing a better electric pump? I think this one is okay for the moment.

not really! I sent them an e-mail and they reply telling me no screws included!

Do you have an audio of this? i wouldnt like to spend US$300 in something that first of all does not fit nice under the car and second is so loud i wont be able to listen to the radio. I use to have the twice pipe exhaust and it was quite annoying!

Thanks Mark. I have reschedule the appointment for this Friday and will advise him of this situation. The spark plugs are NGK BP6ES, the Spark Plug wires are new such as the rotor and cap. Do both of the carbs need to have the exact amount of turns on the mixture adjustement knob? ie 4 turns on the front, 4 on the rear?