Johnny wick

The car Works perfectly over 3000 RPM and there is no hesitation at high idle so i do not think it is a vacuum advance or distributor inner problem issue.

I need a remanufactured 240z Hitachi single point distributor for my 1972 240z! The vacuum advance must be in perfectly working order! Anyone?? I will be uisng it with the Pertronix ignitor module and 3.0 ohms ignition coil!! Really urgent!!

Just bought a Cardone A1 31-606 Distributor to replace my tired Hitachi Original Distributor on my 1972 240z: http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-1-CARDONE-31-606-Remanufactured-Distributor-Point-Type-fit-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-/311194019573?fits=Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3A240Z&hash=item48749be6f5&vxp=mtr Surprise, this model does not allow the Pertronix Ignitor 1761 module to sit flush with the Center Shaft. I have attached pictures for ready reference: first 2 are the Cardone and last 2 are actual Hitachi which is currently in my car. I believe the only solution is to tear down the original Hitachi distributor and replace the vacuum advance using the one from the Cardone A1 31-606 Distributor or look for a module that can fit flush with the Cardone? Any opinions on this?

Not fuel problem! I guess it points out that the vacuum advance is not working properly. The back and forth hesitation is still present!!!

Just swapped it and even after turning to 3.5 turns each carb, the back and forth shaking movement at 1st and 2nd gear is still there. All the 3 mounts (engine and transmission) are perfect and not cracked. The problem is sure another thing!! I did not had this problem with the FAR 311 RACE CAM!! Could the distributor have an inner short or damage?

Okay i am narrowing my decisión for any of the following electric fuel pumps: Airtex E8016S (2.5 to 4.5 psi) http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/atx-e8016s/overview/ or PEFP p11-K (4-5 psi) http://www.ebay.com/itm/P11K-Fuel-Pump-for-Datsun-240z-260z-SU-Carburetor-Low-Pressure-4-5-Psi-/330794060113?hash=item4d04dcc951&vxp=mtr Anyone????

What is the advertised PSI? The Carter P60504 is advertised at 4 psi? and it is only delivering 3 psi!!!!

The Carter p60504 was measured by a shop 2 months ago and it only measured 3 psi at idle. Fuel filter is clean!! No rust or any kind of deposits!

Will Airtex model E8012S which is 5 to 9 psi too much for both Hitachi SU CARBS? Is there any risk using this electric fuel pump? I just want to test if i am not getting enough pressure with the Carter P60504 fuel pump!

I will try and disconnect the actual fuel pump and install the one in the picture back! My dad think it could be fuel starving at low rpms! I dont think it would hurt to put the 5 to 9 psi Airtex 8012S electric fuel pump back and measure the real psi!

Yes! this started happening after my mechanic istalled both of the su carburetors Ztherapy remanufactured for me completely. i only see two motor mounts and dont notice them broken!

Please find attached a picture i took of the car after changing all the bushing kit! Which is the transmission mount that could be causing this problem?

I checked the brake booster by removing the hose from the balance tube running the car at idle. Result was an increase in the idle. Put it back and the idle came back to where it was. I lowered the rear carb idle mixture knob to 3 turns clockwise and the front one was left in 3 and 1/4 turns clockwise. Did my test drive and the car continues to shake back and forth in the following scenarios: 1. If accelerate in 1st gear and suddenly remove my foot from the gas pedal 2. if passing through a broken or bumpy non uniform road at low speeds in example the parking of a mall or supermarket. Need to step either real soft or real hard to avoid shaking. I was advised to check on the distributor, to clean the guts with wd40 or to get a remanufactured one.

Okay, 1. I am not avoiding the spark plugs for any specific reasons. I will pull them out and take a picture of all of them together. What color should they be? Coffee color or yellowish color? 2. Brake Booster leak check. I dont seem to notice that i need more effort to push the brake pedal. Anyway, i will disconnect the brake booster and will plug the port at the balance tube. SHould i use a rubber grommet to cap it or i need to get a screw? 3. when the back and forth shaking appear my foot is not in the clutch pedal. it also appear if i accelarate and reléase the pedal immediately. no foot on clutch when this shows up.

Okay. I bought this 1972 240z last year and it came with a Center Force one clutch with stainless steel hose. I drove it for a year and its not until know that its starting to cause this back and forth shaking which is even present if i accelarate the car at 1st gear low rpm and reléase the pedal immediately. This should not happen. I will leave the purchase of an Airtex electric fuel pump on standby, so we can focus on the problem from another angle: 1. How do i test the brake booster? i disconect the hose from the balance tube and what should i notice if it is faulty? 2. How do i verify the clutch is chattering? My car has a 280z 5 gear transmission. Will i need to remove the clutch plate? The idle mixture knob on both su carbs is set at 3 and 1/4 turns clockwise; RPM at 950 on idle

This is the Actual fuel pump my car has installed near the gas tank, a Carter P60504. It used to measure 3 psi! I dont know it it is still reaching the same measurement.

I am having problems with fuel pump pressure on my 240z. Can someone point out which is the best electric fuel pump for this stock carburetors? I was using a Carter P60504 and it only puts out 3 PSI. What will be the máximum PSI that both of these carbs will tolerate without overflooding the float valves. How much per carburetor?

Just took my mechanic home to test the car and he had the following observations: 1. The glass fuel filter does not remain fully filled when turning the engine off. He recommends getting rid of the following electronic fuel pump which is installed in the rear axle: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-p60504/overview/ 2. Once installing the former one which picture i have attached to and still Works, which i believe is an AIRTEX E8012S model. Tune up the carburetors again and this should solved the back and forth low rpm shaking. Do you concur?

Stanley, Thanks for your valuable opinion, I already swaped the PCV valve and will change all the NGK BP6ES Spark plugs before testing the car again. My mechanic thinks he should look at the clutch to see if this could be the problem. I do not think so, as the car has no problems when shifting. Anyhow i decided to purchase the following braided hoses and parts from JDM to get them replaced: http://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/hoses-pipes-valves-nissan-datsun-fairlady-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/brake-master-vacuum-braided-hose-for-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z http://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-nissan-fairlady-z/products/brake-booster-check-valve-datsun-240z-260z-280z http://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-nissan-fairlady-z/products/brake-master-vacuum-braided-hose-intake-side-240z-71-73 http://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-nissan-fairlady-z/products/pcv-braided-hose-for-datsun-240z Please confirm which other vacuum hose or parts will i need to replace to narrow down any vacuum leak posibility. Jorge

I had an extra PCV valve! just replaced it yesterday! I will try the car today to see if the former pcv valve was shut!

Ok Stanley, Can you point out in the following picture where should i check? I have a Brand new pcv valve in my storage room. However, i think that my mechanic has already removed all the emmission crap from the balance tube. This is a picture of what i have on my engine. By the way, I have a Vacuum Test gauge, where do i plug it in to test any leaks. Please point out that also. I really appreciate all your help to troubleshoot this back and forth issue.

Okay! Suppose it is a vacuum leak! Besides of the brake booster braided hose and check valve, which other braided hoses (vacuum related) will need to be replaced? I even read in one fórum that it could be the brake booster leaking inside!!!!

Let me see if i can explain this better. Just got a confirmation from Ztherapy of not touching the float valves as they are set perfectly. First i get the car warmed up for 5 minutes. Start going in reverse to take it out of the parkway. Slide to gear N° 1 with the clutch stepped, reléase the clutch and start accelerating normally. The car starts to shake back and forth. To avoid this you need to step on the gas fully for it to pickup. Another scenario where this is shown is the following: Passing through a slightly broken road at 1st gear or after a Street bump. THe car has a recently installed Carter P60504 Fuel pump: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-P60504-Universal-Electric-Fuel-Pump-/371170716452?fits=Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3A240Z&hash=item566b7fab24&vxp=mtr which is measuring 3psi. So i dont think its a fuel starvation problem.

Hesitation continues. 1st and 2nd gear! I did not had this problem before with the Far 311 Race Cam! The electric fuel pump is measuring 3psi!!! Any clues!!

Just increased the timing to 12 BTDC, hesitation is still present at 1st gear and when decelerating and shifting to 2nd gear at low rpms. I read in another fórum that it could be a float level issue! Both of these carbs were fully remanufactured by Ztherapy! Will i need to open the float valve compartment to adjust the level? It sounds as they had it set up perfectly before shipping them to me!