Johnny wick

The 1972 240z has the following specifications: New Datsun L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam. 2 original SU Hitachi round top carburetors rebuilt with race needle. I already used a synchronizer to sync both of the Hitachi carburetors. Another thing i did noticed is that the first three spark plugs are turning black!!! Today I added 10w engine oil as damper oil and topped both carbs, the car is still stalling and lowering to 500 - 600 RPM at idle before shutting down eventually.

After running my 240z for 20 to 30 minutes and then parking the car if i leave the engine on at idle the rpm tends to lower intermittently to 500 rpm. If i decide to turn the lights on it will lower a Little bit more until the engines shuts off. This problem is really annoying as i am worried that once i put an AC kit to the car i would be having the car shut off immediately. Please advise which direction should i take before installing the AC to the car.

Yesterday I noticed that after running the car for 20 to 30 minutes and then parking the car if i leave the engine on at idle the rpm tends to lower intermittently to 500 rpm. If i decide to turn the lights on it will lower a Little bit more until the engines shuts off. This problem is really annoying as i am worried that once i put an AC kit to the car i would be having the car shut off immediately. Please advise which direction should i take before installing the AC to the car. I need to have this issue solved ASAP.

My 240z is tending to fail when it is between 800 to 2,000 RPM. Once it reaches over 3,000 RPM it is really stable. I bought this car second hand with the following specifications: New Datsun L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam. 2 original SU Hitachi round top carburetors rebuilt. I already used a synchronizer to sync both of the Hitachi carburetors. Another thing i did noticed is that the first three spark plugs are turning black. Does the failing problem has something to do with this race cam? During traffic jams or Street light after being driven for 30 minutes it tends to stall lowering the rpm to 700. This really does not feel comfortable. Looking for an honest advice as i would not like spending money on an original cam or carburetor if this is not the solution.

Besides of the trouble i am having with the bad temperature and oil Reading on my 1972 240z i am also considering on reverting to the original camshaft as the car is tending to fail when it is between 800 to 2,000 RPM. Once it reaches over 3,000 RPM it is really stable. The car actually has the following specifications: New Datsun L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam. 2 original SU Hitachi round top carburetors rebuilt. Is it really worth going back to stock cam???? if so what parts will i need to change?

Pursuant to the recommendations of one of the fórum users i decided to use a kitchen thermometer to verify the actual temperature of the radiator in my 1972 240z and found out that the gauge was not measuring correctly. The thermometer marked 160 degrees farenheit while on the gauge marked a Little bit more than half. Based on this fact the solution of the problem now narrows to the following conclusion: 1. The Temp / Oil gauge is not calibrated and maybe even damaged (the oil is not marking correctly either) or; 2. The Water temperature sender unit is damaged Is there a way of adjusting this gauge or should i just purchase another one on ebay? I tried stopping the fan clutch with a cardboard folder and it ripped it away and i do not see any leaking of wáter coming from the wáter pump.

I have sent 2 e-mails to Courtesy parts and have not yet received any reply regarding these parts. Do i really need to purchase original genuine Nissan Parts or will i be alright buying aftermarket for this cooling section of the car?

I want to replace the following parts in my 1972 240z: - Water Temperature Sender Kit with retainer nut -Water Pump -Fan Clutch with plastic blade -Fan Belt -Water Pump Bolt Kit I normally purchase my parts from Black Dragon Auto but after contacting them i have been informed their parts are aftermaket parts. I tried MSA but its a hassle with them and prices are quite steep. For these quality genuine nissan parts where should i go?

I am about to carry out the installation of an A/C system which includes the following parts to my 1972 240z: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vta-66005-vuz-a/overview/ http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vta-04808-vua/overview/ The problem i have is that down here in Panama, Central America the temperature is 32 degrees Celsius and lot of heat arises from the pavement. The other day while stuck in traffic bumper to bumper the temperature in the gauge raised to 3/4 and the car tended to stall lowering the revolutions to 800 rpm. Once out of the traffic at open road the temperature lowered to half. The queries i have are the following: 1) Should i purchase a fan shroud in addition to the air conditioner parts required for the installation to lower the temperature at idle under this heat conditions? 2) Will there be space enough to fit this fan shroud considering the car carries a New 3 row Aluminum Race Radiator and i still have to fit the condenser, dryer and condenser fan to install the AC?

Mine also has the same problem. Temperature rises to 3/4 without the thermostat intalled.

No fan shroud! My father had a Daihatsu Charade which had one carburetor and removed the thermostat. The car never overheated. Could the Gauge be damaged? Is the Reading of the oil ok?

I am really worried about the Reading on my temperature gauge as it is raising to 3/4 while on idle during this last weekend. The weather on Saturday was 32°C and lot of heat from the pavement. I am driving the car with no thermostat on and it should lower the needle to 1/2. I tried spinning the fan clutch and it does move at least 1/4 of the complete spin. Will i risk the engine at this Reading or could the gauge be damaged? The car has Brand new 5 quarters of oil and new oil filter and it reads what you see here! Once the car starts moving away from traffic the temperature lowers to half!

I checked the fan clutch yesterday when my 240z was cold and it is not spinning freely. If you turn it, it only spins 1/3 to 1/4 of the full cycle. If this is the case, should i order a new fan clutch and wáter pump with gaskets also? Who sells original OEM Nissan fan clutch and wáter pump? My car was made in January 1972 and carries a plastic fan blade.

I checked the fan yesterday when the car was cold and it is not spinning freely. If you turn it, it does not spin the full cycle. If this is the case, should i order a new fan clutch and wáter pump with gaskets also? Who sells origina OEM Nissan fan clutch and wáter pump? My car was made in January 1972 and carries a plastic fan blade

Drove the car today for an hour, so heavy traffic and hot day. The temperature gauge needle started increasing until 3/4 of level and the car tended to stall in the traffic so i had to open up the choke a Little bit to increase rpm. I checked the fan clutch and it does not spin easily. Please be advised that i am running the car with no thermostat. I already changed the spark plugs, oil filter and oil of the car. The temperature issue is really annoying and it only happens when the car is under hot day and traffic. What should i do?

Last week when i took my car for an oil change i manage to grab these pictures and would really like to know if it is recomendable to change the floor panels or should i just settle for a couple of patches?

I am in the process of purchasing all the rubber seals i will need to restore my 1972 240z. I want good quality seals that at the moment of being installed fit tight to the doors, Windows, Hood, and trunk. Is there any high quality kit recommended that can comply with this requirement? I dont want to start the paint procedure without having absolutely all the seals required for my restoration process. Which supplier should i contact? when I mean absolutely all the rubber seals it includes the ones that go under the tail lights.

My 1972 Datsun 240z horn pad keeps falling from the steering Wheel. I have tried many ways of closing it so it can fit tight on the Wheel but it is quite imposible. Based on the pictures i have taken am i missing some parts to secure the horn pad or should i just purchase a Brand new replica?

Thanks Mark. Do I need to purchase a Carburetor Synchronizer to accomplish this or can i do it manually? Your assistance is highly appreciated.

Just purchased a 1972 Datsun 240z from a Dealer in Colorado where it is cold. The car was shipped to Panama, Central America where the temperature is 32 degrees Celsius (Hot Weather). Anyway, i had to remove the thermostat as it was taking the temperature needle more than half way. The car Works perfectly and mantains the needle at half of the temperature gauge for the first 25 minutes. After that time lapse and whenever i stop at any intersection light the RPM starts to drop to 600 RPM with the intention of stalling, so in a rush of not being dumped in the road i drove to my house and kept the car in idle for 2 minutes when it finally shut down. Could this be a carburetor adjustment problem even though the seller advertise them as fully rebuilt? the front 3 spark plugs have turned black, the rear 3 spark plugs are clean. As background information the seller did the following changes in the car: ◾PerTronix Ignition Kit with new coil Electric fuel pump ◾Recent rebuilt Engine Recent rebuilt 5 speed transmission from 280Z with new Center Force 1 clutch with stainless steel clutch hose New Twice Pipes Exhaust 60-Amp Alternator upgrade kit New fuse box New Fan belt with new upper and lower Radiator hoses New 3 row Aluminum Race Radiator New Plug Wires New Thermostat and oil pressure sender New brake system with stainless steel brake lines New struts Rebuild Carbs The engine and transmission have less than 6000 miles on them. The following is a list of upgrades or modifications made to the car: New Datsun L24 motor has crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam. Please be advised i have not changed the spark plugs, oil filter and oil to this car since i received it last week. I just want to be sure how to tackle this stalling problem before i do a tune up. It is really weird the car begins to stall after it has fully warmed up.

Just purchased a 1972 Datsun 240z from a Dealer in Colorado where it is cold. The car was shipped to Panama, Central America where the temperature is 32 degrees Celsius (Hot Weather). Anyway, i had to remove the thermostat as it was taking the temperature needle more than half way. The car Works perfectly and mantains the needle at half of the temperature gauge for the first 25 minutes. After that time lapse and whenever i stop at any intersection light the RPM starts to drop to 600 RPM with the intention of stalling, so in a rush of not being dumped in the road i drove to my house and kept the car in idle for 2 minutes when it finally shut down. Could this be a carburetor adjustment problem even though the seller advertise them as fully rebuilt? the front 3 spark plugs have turned black, the rear 3 spark plugs are clean. As background information the seller did the following changes in the car: ◾PerTronix Ignition Kit with new coil Electric fuel pump ◾Recent rebuilt Engine Recent rebuilt 5 speed transmission from 280Z with new Center Force 1 clutch with stainless steel clutch hose New Twice Pipes Exhaust 60-Amp Alternator upgrade kit New fuse box New Fan belt with new upper and lower Radiator hoses New 3 row Aluminum Race Radiator New Plug Wires New Thermostat and oil pressure sender New brake system with stainless steel brake lines New struts Rebuild Carbs The engine and transmission have less than 6000 miles on them. The following is a list of upgrades or modifications made to the car: New Datsun L24 motor has crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam. Please be advised i have not changed the spark plugs, oil filter and oil to this car since i received it last week. I just want to be sure how to tackle this stalling problem before i do a tune up. It is really weird the car begins to stall after it has fully warmed up.

Just got my 1972 Datsun 240z and need to replace the following parts: -Rebuilt kit for original front and rear Hitachi Carburetors -Thermostat -Oil Sender or Pressure Switch -Stock Temp Thermostat -Ignition Switch with key -Door Handles -Door Locks -Complete wiring harness (engine and body) -Comp Cigarrette Lighter and Element -Fuel Tank Sending Sender Unit Gauge NEW OEM Nissan -NEW Speedo Cable Speedometer -Windshield wiper system nozzles I would like to know if I should buy my parts at Black Dragon Auto or should i strive for higher quality in other websites?

I have recently received my 1972 Datsun 240z and have started checking all the interior and exterior lights, most seem okay but have found the following problems: 1- Front Right Turn light is not flashing when engaging the turn light switch to the right. The rear light does work and flashes but the front does not. Even in the dashboard the right arrow is not flashing. My mechanic says it is the wiring harness of the lamp and that it may have a broken internal ground: Datsun 240Z/260Z Parking & Turn Signal Lamp (To Aug.-'74) He also recommends changing the flasher relay for the turn signal switch. This seems ackward as the tailight are working correctly when activating to the left and right. 2- The clock is not working 3- The oil gauge marks 1/4. Could the sender be damaged? 4- The Fasten seat belt light is not working. The bulb is good. Your advice is greatly appreciated.

Vintage Air Gen-II Mini Universal Climate Control Systems 66005-VUZ-A http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vta-66005-vuz-a/overview/ Vintage Air Gen-II Base Model 4-Lever Controls 49110-SHQ http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vta-49110-shq/overview/ Please advise what else will i need and include specific part number. I will really apreciate it as i am trying to save shipping costs and getting the compressor and other parts here in my local dealer in Panama.