jeremy93ls

ahhh. I just went back and realized the strut mount comes out, too. There's a 12mm nut holding it on. Doh! Apparently, because of the crack in the plastic, someone before me overlooked it, also. Thanks, guys.

That thing is hard to get out. There was already a crack below the strut mount from whomever tried to remove it years ago. The driver side was tough enough..had to remove the strut nut and muscle it out. The other side is a bit more complex. The rear light panel is out, all of the press-board decking is out, the right-side deck mount piece is out, too. It feels like its going to snap if I put any more bending pressure on it. Any tricks to getting this out? Is there a bolt underneath the weatherstripping to remove the strut mounting plate?

The Porsche 911 coupler didn't work. The holes in it don't line up quite right and the metal sleeves that came with it just wobble around inside. It's a little thicker, too, and I couldn't get the two batwing pieces to fit right and get the bolts through. It almost works, but I'm not going to chance it. I went with the Energy Suspension part since it would have to be better than the plastic coupler I pull out.

I'm thinking of taking a gamble on a Porsche 911 coupler. They're easy to find and look pretty close to the Nissan part. If the holes line up, all I'd have to do is cut off the ends of those metal sleeves so they fit flush with the rubber since other pics I've seen show them sticking out a bit.

That ABS coupler is the same one I pulled out of mine yesterday. I'll order the poly one unless I run across something softer before I bolt everything back up. If anyone wants this one, it's yours for the cost of shipping or I'll trade for a few half-shaft bolts that I rounded out.

Zed, I've read about the hockey puck, but assume it would be similar to the plastic coupler I have already. I just installed KYBs and cut coils and plan to buy that same size tire. Tire rubber is a good idea, too. I imagine the original rubber coupler is pretty hard and probably closer to poly in density/flexibility. What do I know, though. I had no idea I was driving with plastic until yesterday. Sure, it was a bumpy ride, but I figured everything was worn the !@#$% out after 38 years.

ahhhh, nobody seems to have these available. Every time I purchase one, I get an email the next day with notification that I am being refunded because the part is NLA. Funny thing...when I removed mine yesterday, I realized it was solid plastic. MSA sells the same exact one and the previous/original owner must have felt the need to upgrade to it?? I'd be happy to whittle one out from rubber if I had something to start with. Any ideas? How soft is the rubber coupler? Could I use a few layers of (something like) a heavy-duty garage floor mat epoxied together? Maybe a tractor/trailer mud flap? It's just a rubber disk with 4 holes.

I'd really like 3" exhaust after hearing another 280 with it. I'm thinking I'd start at the down pipe by transitioning up into 3" pipe using a reducer/adapter, then through a big resonator along the transmission tunnel (longest I can fit), then 3" piping to the rear. I like the idea of using lap/butt joint clamps to hold it together since I haven't acquired a welder yet. The exhaust route under these cars looks fairly simple, so I've nearly talked myself into doing it after I finish up the front end suspension bushings. If I buy several bends, straight pipe and quality stainless clamps, how hard could it be?

Mine were missing, so I cut some copper pipe insulation and wedged it in there. Any closed cell foam would work. You could use a piece of swimming pool 'noodle' to add a little pizazz!

Thanks, guys. Part numbers are good. I can do 32.75+shipping, if still available. I've kept a link to a 2010 post on this site about Nissan rubber bushing part numbers by Mike W. It's been very helpful.

I'm making my list to finish up the front end and I'd like to replace the steering coupler, but don't want a poly/solid one. Is there a rubber one available somewhere that I just haven't found?

When I was a kid, I remember going to a local shop that rebuilt alternators. It always smelled like marijuana in there and I thought, "when I get a car, I'll never take anything here to get repaired..these guys are on DRUGS!" Then as a got older I realized that those guys were probably very focused on their trade ;-) It's too bad little shops like that don't exist around here anymore.

Ahhh, never mind. After reading more and remembering how I beat the crap out of these to separate them, I'll spend the money on new parts when I put it back together. Rock Auto has Moog ends for $24 each.

I'm (in no hurry) done with the rear suspension bushings and started on the front today. I figure I need something on the tie rod ends since the rubber boots have long been gone on mine. All I can find are poly dust boots, unless I replace the whole tie rod (replacement tie rods come with rubber boots, from what I can find) For those of you that have them, do the poly dust boots fit well? Can I source some rubber dust boots, instead?

I bought this to replace the failing tach in my 78, but the seller sent one from a 240 instead. I can't use it and I've already settled up with the seller, so it's for sale if anyone needs it. I cannot guarantee it works because I have no way to test it, unfortunately. I bought it as a working unit and assume it's fine. I'll trade it straight out for a working 280 tach or sell it for $50 plus shipping.

haha, yeah I know. I'm so used to adding that word to my searches lately. It seems most people go with the poly bushings, instead. Captain- I made sure to have them oriented with the 'wings' in the proper place. I eventually realized that the squeaking I heard while lifting/lowering the control arms was indeed coming from the rear inside bushings, BUT, that was after I had already broken those 4 big nuts loose. The squeaking was from the original bushings rotating against those big washers. It makes more sense now. Thanks to everyone for the help.

I only destroyed one and hate to buy a whole set from a retail Z store. I'll mail 5 bucks to someone that will send one back to me.. -Jeremy

These were Nissan rubber bushings. I'm slowly replacing all the original rubber bushings with rubber bushings, except the sway bar mounts/end links. Funny thing, I pulled the two easiest ones off today and noticed they weren't slippery at all. The gray Permatex anti-seize stuff turned into more of a dry lubricant like a graphite when it dried. It wasn't slick like I thought it would be. I even tried to wipe some off the ends but it didn't wipe off so I snugged the bolts back in, lowered the car onto the tires and torqued them to spec. Maybe it will be OK..

(quote) "Works like this... You clamp the rubber portion tightly in the strap clamps and do not allow it to move. Then you pinch down on the ends of the bushing with the big flat washer and bolt until you have compressed the rubber completely. You're not tight until you have actually tightened it so much that the inner sleeve (with the toothed serrations) is held tightly against the control arm. So tightly, in fact, that the inner toothed sleeve will always rotate with the arm as the arm moves up and down. There should be no movement of the inner sleeve with respect to the control arm. They should be locked together. There should be no movement of the outer rubber with respect to the undercarriage. They should be locked together." (end quote) ___________________________________________________________________________ Crap Crap Crap.. I just finished mine yesterday and I think I screwed this up. Sorry to revive an old topic but this is just what I was searching for. I went a little crazy with the anti-seize and lubed the inside of these, as well as the ends where the rubber meets the washer on the big nut. My reasoning was that as I snugged all this together and rotated the control arms up/down, it squeaked like nuts and reminded me of why I began replacing all these bushings to begin with. I bet I'll have to pull these off and clean them. I'll never get those 4 big nuts tightened down enough to keep them from rotating with all that anti-seize in there. $^!#. I should have read this yesterday.

I love these ideas. The charcoal trick sounds great. I thought about tossing a handful of silica gel packets inside to absorb moisture. I wonder if one could lower a mesh bag of those packets into a [dry] fuel tank to prevent rust over time?

Thanks for the tips. Dehumidifier -yes. I do like the idea of an empty tank of fuel better than a full one inside my home. I could even disconnect the fuel pump and blow the lines out for good measure. If I had a detached garage, starting it up monthly would be my method of choice. I think I'll keep the tires aired up. You're right, these tires are many years old already and will need to be replaced when I roll it back out eventually.

After much thought, I plan to store the other love of my life in my basement for a few years. Money is tighter than ever and that raise I was promised didn't turn out to be what I expected. Every month finds us stretching my income as far as possible while my wife continues her classes to one day become a Registered Dietician. With no grants or financial aid help at all, I can't afford to do any maintenence/repairs on the Datsun now if I had to. So, anyway, I'm fortunate enough to have a garage door around back that I can roll the 280Z in until she finishes school and starts making some big buck$. I've read about adding fuel stabilizer and filling the tank up to the neck. I also heard that keeping weight off the tires will prevent flat spots and since the suspension is waaaaay worn out anyway, new springs/struts/bushings/etc will be one of the first projects to start when I roll it back out some day. I'll remove the battery because I'll likely need it in my truck soon enough. My basement doesn't have rodents so that's good (for the wiring, haha) It can be a little damp at times after heavy rain, but it's got to be better than storing it outside under my steel carport. I've read that it's reccomended to change the oil before storing a car for a few years. Really? I'm thinking of removing the plugs and spraying oil in the cylinders, too. Am I overlooking anything?

siteunseen, I'm glad to know I'm not the only one with a zip-tied AFM cover, ::

Did they slide around much when you got in/out? That's what I keep thinking about. I guess I could stick some grippy tape to the already-trashed seats before covering them to keep the covers from sliding around. It's too bad most seat covers I see at walmart/auto parts are so damn ugly. Camouflage Hello Kitty deer-head seats just don't do it for me, ha.

The seats in my 78 are ripped and sagging. I have a towel over the driver's side bucket to keep from sticking to the duct tape the PO mended it with. I want to have them rebuilt/recovered properly but I can't afford it now. Are those cheap seat covers from the auto parts stores worth buying as a temporary solution? I thought of getting some fake sheepskin covers or maybe something made of neoprene so they don't slide around. Any recommendations?