jeremy93ls

I installed another rebuilt alternator and drove it for about 50 miles today with no problems at all. I hope that's all it needed. Yes, 3 brownish and one black in the 78. I've got a spare set of Nissan fusible links in the glove box but haven't used them yet. They're so much smaller in diameter than the original links.. i suppose that wouldn't matter, though.

Good idea, Captain. I bet I could swap a 280 alternator in less than 10 minutes.. i've had plenty of practice since getting my Z Took it to the local Advance/Autozone/I forget which and it passed. The guy running the test also said the VR either works or doesn't. I went ahead and found a cheap rebuilt Hitachi 14185 online and ordered it. I figure for $49, it wouldn't hurt to have an extra one to help with diagnostics.

I only turned the headlights on to see if I could get the gauge to jump around again so I could get a voltage reading at the alternator, but it never did. That's when I noticed the battery was slowly dropping voltage. I'll get it tested tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks for the troubleshooting advice.

The charge lamp is working normally now. It lights up just before turning the engine over and then goes out. When you say it either works or it doesn't, I wonder what made it act up temporarily? I'll drive around this evening and see if I can get it to fail again.

The voltage at the S wire in the T plug is identical to the voltage at the battery. The connectors are nice and clean, too. I wiggled the T plug around with the probe inside and the reading never changed so the connection inside there is solid.

I took my car out yesterday for a short drive and the first thing I noticed was the BRAKE light inside the speedometer on. I fiddled with the e-brake switch to no avail and checked to make sure the fluids were OK. I stopped at a store a few miles down the road when I got back in and started it, the light went out when the e-brake was disengaged, like normal. Later on, the voltmeter gauge caught my eye as it was bouncing from 14v-16+v while driving, causing the CHG light to flash. Returning to neutral or easing along at low RPMs kept the needle about 14 but every time I gave it gas, it would max out and bounce back and forth. I crept home watching it bounce around until at one point it just settled down and stayed about 14-15 where it usually sits for the last few miles home. I'm on my 2nd rebuilt Hitachi alternator since acquiring the car a year ago and haven't had a bit of trouble out of this one until yesterday. The only thing that might have affected it was that I tightened the alt/fan belt the day before because it was a bit looser than I like. The battery is good and also a year old. I took it out for a drive around the block this evening and it acted normal. I was getting a little over 14v at idle straight off the alternator. I then turned my headlights on bright and got a reading of 13.1v at the alternator. A minute or two later, I was getting 12.8 and slowly dropping. By this time the battery was reading 12.5. Do I have yet another failing alternator? My 78 has the internal voltage regulator and I'm guessing this is failing. Do you think tightening the belt caused this, somehow? I should have gotten a reading from the alternator when it was surging yesterday but I was more concerned with getting home.

I've heard of people cutting up a small plastic trash can and heating it to bend into the desired shape. I'd rather use some scrap metal I've got laying around. Spray a few coats of undercoating or truck bed liner on both sides and it would look like it was always there, I'm hoping. At the right angle, I can see my Budweiser can 'exhaust leak fix', haha

My 78 didn't come with a splash guard inside the rear wheel well of the driver's side but does have one in the passenger side. I remove the passenger side guard whenever I swap the pre-pump fuel filter for better access. My driver's side would benefit from a similar piece since my botched exhaust work really stands out. Is there a logical reason that the driver's side well did not come with one of these? Before I get crafty with some sheet metal, is there any harm in covering that gap? I'm guessing it wouldn't matter a bit but wanted to throw it out there before I find my tin snips.

Try using FireFox with the 'Flash Video Downloader' (or similar) add-on. The video was choppy on my laptop so I downloaded it to the hard drive where playback is perfect.

Excellent, that's in my neck of the woods. I should have a few minor issues sorted out by then and would love to come check it out.

A replacement ignition relay solved my problem. Thanks to all for advice and suggestions. Now, if it would quit raining down here so I could put some miles on her.. good for the vegetable garden/bad for keeping a clean Datsun

I took the ignition switch out and plugged in a spare switch from the PO with the same results. When the key is turned to ON, nothing from the fuel pump and no buzzing from the seat belt warning device like normal. The only thing that happens is a faint click from the ignition relay in the passenger side. The oil pressure sensor connections were clean but I cleaned/sprayed them again anyway. I got my new fusible links in the mail today but they didn't solve anything. I don't regret getting them, though. Spare parts are priceless sometimes. When I removed/opened up the three relays under the hood, they sparkled like new. I was hoping for something like Zed Head's relay. I plan to disconnect and clean the 2 big wiring harness plugs by the passenger firewall (again) Maybe something is screwy with a few of those connections.

When I unplug the yellow wire to the starter and turn the key to START, the fuel pump does not get power. BTW, the pump is new OEM and the connections are clean. *edit* I faintly remember having this problem a few weeks ago and while the key was still in the ON position, I was under the hood jiggling the battery ground cable when I heard a clicking from somewhere and then the fuel pump started churning. I bet it was one of those two relays under the hood. I should have mentioned this earlier but just now put 2 and 2 together.

Before this issue began, the everything else worked normally other than a bouncy voltage gauge. Gauges worked, radio, turn signals etc worked like normal. It did seem to idle better before this, though. Now, if I can get it to start up, the idle is low/uneven and it hesitates when the throttle is opened. I'll get my 'assistant' to help me test the fuel pump for voltage as she turns the key this weekend. My 78 has three relays under the box in the engine bay. Fuel Pump Control, Fuel Pump Relay and EFI Main Relay, according to the FSM. No AC in my 4-speed car so those are the only ones under there. SteveJ, man, you're awesome for offering to help. Let me see what I can get accomplished this weekend before I call for backup.

My head is spinning from scrolling through the FSM and web forums looking for information about my problem. This problem is intermittent but seems to be happening more frequently. This evening, the Datsun decided it was going to stay right where it is.. None of this started happening until recently. My symptoms are: -starter will turn over, but.. -temp, fuel and oil pressure gauge do not work -fuel pump doesn't run/pressurize the FI system (my pressure drops down after I turn the car off, inline gauge attached) -radio and blinkers do not work -idle has become very rough and after warm up, the CHARGE light comes on and the BRAKE light dimly lights up (with E-brake up). 2nd rebuilt Hitachi alternator in two months with internal VR installed and seems to be doing its job. 1st one might have been ok, in retrospect. I thought it was maybe a flaky ground cable because of some corrosion so it was replaced and connections properly cleaned. I then turned to the fusible links and briefly considered swapping over to blade fuses but changed my mind and ordered OEM links (haven't arrived yet). I did test the links and got 12.6v through all 4 as well as the green links mounted to the side of the relay box by the battery but new ones have already been ordered. After seeing pics of another member's rust-filled ignition relay, I contorted around enough to pull mine out and take it apart only to find it looked pretty good. I put it back on the relay bracket and it clicks when the key is turned to the ON position. I can feel it click with my hand on it. I keep thinking that these symptoms are related to a failing ignition relay but I'd like to test it if I could. If it clicks when the key is turned to ON, could it still be failing? Electrical problems suck.

In my situation, it seems to me that it wouldn't matter how thick the stranded wire was under the fusible link covers as long as the blade-fuse itself was the weakest link. Right? Instead of 50A and 80A blade fuses, I could use 40A and 70A fuses to be safe. I see what you're saying about using smaller fusible link wire and that makes sense. I may just order a set of Nissan fusible links and scrap the blade-fuse idea all together.

Thanks for the offer, SteveJ I went everywhere today looking for female blade clips that will fit those male prongs inside the link covers. I'll order some online and remake them using thicker gauge wire.

I used 14 gauge for these.. but now you have me second-guessing

Here's what I came up with before reading waaaay too much about fusible links in my 78. I just had some stuff laying around and made these saturday morning. I still need some 50A and 80A fuses but will have to order them online if I continue with these. BTW, I am troubleshooting some weird no-power with the key on problems and thought the stock links might be the cause.