gramercyjam

Most of us bring our own race gas. VP fuels C12. Just because we like the sweet smell.

Google weber carb part and start calling. I found mine a couple years ago, and I don't see their website up anymore. It took about 2 months to get the right screws. At least you know that there are the right ones, and the wrong ones. I didn't until I got the wrong ones.

What you are going to find is you can find the screw and lock nut part that modern webers come with that won't fit your carbs. The correct old parts are hard to find. Start making calls. Also, they should have holes in them to safety wire them so they won't fall out. Thats what I would do.

P.S. I have been running this setup for about 6 years (street and track) without a single issue.

I don't know if it is common. I had a crane XR600 optical/electronic ignition (kit number from memory here) kit that they sell for the stock distributor and an old mallory dual point mechanical advance distributor. I like the larger mallory cap, taller distributor and adjustable mech. advance.No brainer for me to marry the two instead of going out and spending more money on stuff. I just removed everything off the plate inside the mallory that the points screw down on, mounted the mallory optical trigger from one of their XR kits on it. Took the Crane 6 slotted optical interrupter plate meant for the 240Z distributor and dremeled it out a little so it fit on the bigger mallory distributor shaft. They don't make a 6 slotted interruptor plate for the mallory. Align and time as described in Cranes instructions on their web site.

Well I took an old dual point centrifigual advance mallory and converted it to electronic using parts from the Crane kit. Works really well.

I'd check the combination switch (turn signal switch) too if it is looking like the brake light switch works. It's been a while since I had one in my Z, so the memory is a little fuzzy, but it is wired into the brake lights too. A wire fell off the switch on mine, and just needed to be soldered back on the switch for the brake lights to work again.

I've got a set of slotted 14" rims I took off my Z and I want to get them out of my garage. I'm in San Antonio.

That seam on the firewall along those few inches of frame rail are what keeps the front end attached to the rest of the car. Fix it and you should notice a pretty significant differerence in the performance. I did.

I have used silicone putty and silicone RTV to make small molds and take imprints from other parts. I haven't seen texture sheets sold seperately. Here is a company that specializes in small production mold making and casting resins for DIY applications. They have a pretty interesting How-To section. http://www.alumilite.com/

http://www.rawnamerica.com/products.php#Industrial%20Misc

Its unlike any of the products mentioned. It does more than bond - it fuses with the surrounding plastic. Its two part, a powder filler and a liquid solvent. The solvent melts the powder, and you can blend it to the consistency you want. Very good for any type of styrene plastic repair. It comes in a translucent white color, but I have pigmented it with powdered paint to match the color of the repaired piece. If you need texture, you can use a press texture onto it with the texture pieces that come with some of the dash repair kits available at auto parts stores. I've also made molds and poured the plas-T-pair into them for more complicated repairs. The repairs are stronger than the original.

I like Rawn Plas-T-Pair for plastic repairs.

Yes, I'm track only. Can't wait to try them. I sure could have used some toe adjustments in the back this year. I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have crashed after hitting a pond at speed at a PCA TT/DE event.

Nicely made piece. It looks expensive to make though. Looks like something a gunsmith might come up with. What is it the material?

Outer spindle pins and attachment device that adjusts for camber and toe To finish and install, machine the bottom of the rear hub (the part where the spindle pin goes in) to fit into rectangular recesses of the top large machined part. Weld the long round bushings to rounded recess on top large machined part. Machine away center part of the bottom of the rear hub so it fits on. Put short spindle pin through and lock down with bolt and jam nut shown. Lower arm just goes onto large machined part with long spindle pin as usual. Spherical bearing can be adjusted in and out for toe in with bolts and jam nuts. Now there needs to be a camber adjusting part. Some part than can fit between bottom of the rear hub and top of the large machined part than can be somehow rotated or completely changed out that will move the hub in and out to change the effective length of the lower arm. It must fit very tightly into the rectangular machined recesses so geometry can't change when in use, perhaps some sort of clamping device may even be employed here. Or perhaps just rotate the large machined part itself to achieve that. After installation of the item, It appears the outboard end of the control arm will be lower than stock, resulting in some camber increase during suspension compression? Or maybe not....

Congratulations on the 2 championships Stephen. It's darn hard to beat those new 911's and M3's, especially on the wrong tires! I like your description "poor old car". You sound like me. Mine cars name is ROZ as in "Raggedy Old Z". The only affordable paint and body work I know of is the do-it-yourself kind, and its no fun to prep a car for paint. It's a race car, so a 50 foot paint job is all it really needs.

I had a '70 'Cuda with a 440 cu in. engine, pistol grip rock crusher 4 speed, posi rear end. IIRC, I paid $400 for it. Couldn't touch it now though. It was truly the ultimate knuckle dragging testosterone generation machine. Back then, they were pure domination for a street car doing stop light drag racing. With a couple "thrush" glass packs for an exhaust, it couldn't be ignored and turned all heads rumbling down the street. The Hemi's were rare. I guess you had to have been there and experienced it to appreciate their place in automotive history.

I went and took another look at it over lunch in better light. The frame rail dog legs are straight, but there has been a misplaced floor jack or two under the floors. It looks straight down the sides and the lines look good and original like it hasn't been bondo'd up. Floor pans have a little more rust that I first thought, although they might clean up nicely if sandblasted, and then again, they might not. The pass side floor support rail will need patching or replacing. One of the tail lights is cracked, the hood has some wrinkles on the nose - the bumpers are not as straight as I first thought. So I have decided to pass. I think it is very restoreable, but not worth my time. It seems to me after a couple years of very hard work and $20K, it might be worth $10K. But thats just my opinion. I don't want to buy it and part it out, because of the potential it does have as a complete numbers matching car. That just wouldn't be right. I think it would be a good project for a determined teenager or at least somebody with more free time than I have. If anyone else is interested in this car, PM me for the phone number.

For Sale the next street over from me for $2K. It is rough, needs paint, carpets, rubber, cracking dash, but appears to be straight and fairly complete. It has ugly 15 faux spoke rims, cracked front turn signal, needs all new rubber, has ZX steering wheel, doors sag. But it has straight shiny bumpers and is a 2 owner, all numbers matching 1970 240Z, with original working everything including AM radio and emblems and has under 100K miles. Green with caramel interior. Owner says it runs very well. That doesn't push my buttons, as I think the mechanicals are the easiest thing on a Z car. Minor rusty spots in the typical areas like dog leg rockers, under battery tray, near fuel door, one on the lower hatch, around seam under hood latch. Floor pans look good. Talk me out of buying it. It really needs to get stripped down to the bones for a nice restoration.

The ignitor is just a power transistor. You can test it with a o'scope on the car or transistor tester off the car.

1.849/gal for regular today in San Antonio

After the shift to 5, mine pulls very very slowly. I don't recall what I ended up at at the end of the straight .... too damn scared to take my eyes off the road because the ride was really rough with lots of vibration because it seemed like there were concrete joints every couple of inches on that old runway, and it doesn't take but a split second for things to go very wrong at that speed. I worried a lot about missing the braking zone and quick left hander too. I just have "stock" brakes with Carbotech Panther pads in front and Nismo green shoes in the back. I deleted the booster and have an aftermarket manual proportioning valve and stainless brake lines. But I worried over the lack of stopping power for nothing. The brakes worked like magic, no fade ever, always more than enough stopping power. I think that a little shorter 5th would be better for my setup. Right now its pretty useless for accelerating. My 5 speed is out of an 83ZX, one out of an 80 would be better. I had a 4.11 rear before the 4.44 and didn't like it as much. I'd like to try a 4.63 some time. It would probably be great for autox.

I'd agree there. Recently did a T/T with a 1/2 mile back straight. My '73 240Z weighed in at 1990# the way it was set up for that. With freshly built flat top piston L28, triple 45 webers, .572 lift cam, 4.44 rear, ZX 5 speed, 245/45/16's, and C12 race gas, I was redlining it at 8500. I have no speedo, just a Autometer SportComp tach w/shift light. Shifting to 5th at redline would make the speed about 140MPH or a few MPH more. From there 5th slowly pulled. I made the shift to 5th just to keep the engine from blowing up. If your rear end was geared a little higher, perhaps you could get a little more out of it, but the aerodynamic wall is as solid as brick at that speed. Need more than an air dam (I have one) to overcome that. The front of the 240Z is more of a parachute than a needle. There were only a few faster cars out there that day, like a 600 HP Z06, Porsche GT3, BMW SMGII M3. KMack can verify. He was there.

It's getting deep in here.