gramercyjam

I've got a few too if you still need 'em.

I use one of the rubber ZX shifter boots so nothing comes in. Besides, I'd more concerned about rain coming in the side windows since I have no glass there!

I fiddle with computers and things connected to computers for the terrestial division of the Borg for about 18 years. I lead a team of Borg computer fiddlers also. I have my B.S.M.E. and worked in Engineering R&D for various concerns for a number of years inventing things that made other people rich. I went back to computer fiddling when I finally realized the profits from the things I came up with would never be shared with me.

That happens to my 5 speed at the track with an inner shift boot on. I took it off and the problem went away. There's probably a way to fix it internally in the tranny, but I'll live with it until I need to take it apart for a better reason.

On my E31, it orignally had bronze intake seats, hardened steel exhaust valve seats. I also have 1 early E88 and 3 late E88's all with bronze intake seats and hardened steel exhaust seats. Taking a look at the website mentioned, I think there is room for expansion on the E88 heads, In addition to large and small valved E88's there are also high and low compression E88's. So based on the heads I own, combined with the info on that web site and others, I'd surmise that there are at least 3 different varieties of the E88: High compression, small valve Low compression, small valve Low compression, large valve.

I run pump regular unleaded in my L24 autox car with late E88 head, standard 18 deg BTDC timing with no pinging. That motor is about 8.5:1. My flattop L28 with .020" shaved E31 with turbo valves and seats will be fed leaded C12 VP (MON 108) race gas. That motor combo is good for about 11.5:1. As well as having a high octance rating, the lower specific gravity of that fuel should be a good match for my antique Weber 45's that currently run slightly rich on pump gas.

NOS - New Old Stock

Buy a regular parts store hose, and get the dress up brading I've seen in the autoparts stores to slip over it. It comes close.

Never mind. It looks like you already found it.

Here is a thread on triples you should read. I also think a good book on webers is a must have.

Yes. Although I know it as a standard diagnostic. Helpful for quickly pinpointing performance problems. If compression is fine as you say, I'd look at ignition issues.

I believe I have one in my parts shed.

My brown metal flake '83 Turbo had those. The gold was for the accents on the swastika wheels and pin striping on the body and the emblems were all gold on the car.

Autox - I run 18 PSI with Hoosiers (bias ply slicks) and 23 PSI with Victoracers (radials).

This is from NGK's web site - I don't have anything to add. Check out their tuner section for additional info. Gap Settings A spark plugs’ tip temperature and the voltage necessary to fire the plug are directly affected by the gap setting. Most manufacturers set the gap from the factory for that plugs most popular application. Unfortunately, that plug may have hundreds of applications from automobiles to golf carts. Setting the gap for your particular engine is important as insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation and even engine damage. Whereas too much gap can result in a higher rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling and poor fuel economy. Even if the preset gap is supposed to match your motor, it is always best to physically check that the gap is adjusted properly for your motor prior to installation. For modified motors, proper gapping is essential; gap settings are affected by increased compression, fuel type, turbos, nitrous and high output ignition system. Most experienced tuners know that opening the gap up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency, however, after they have raised compression and installed a turbo, they have to lower the gap (to ensure ignitability in the denser air/fuel mixtures). It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to reopen the gap without misfire. Compression ratio An increase in the compression ratio raises both the pressure and the temperature within the combustion chamber. This will raise the spark plug tip temperature increasing the chances of pre-ignition. Adjustment in spark plug heat range is likely necessary, in addition, whenever compression ratios are altered, it may be necessary to modify the spark advance curve and recalibrate fuel system.

Done it many times. It all looks OK but looks a little over the top for me. I find the hardest part is removing the axle nuts the first time. I won't share my method here, as it is considered dangerous by some, but it does include the use of a floor jack and a very long breaker bar to break them loose. I have never found heating and cooling parts necessary. I use a 3 jaw puller to remove bearings stuck on the axel, and various pipes and fittings as drifts for installing them. just use a cone aparratus available at any auto parts store that hooks up to the grease gun to lube bearings.

Sorry, I wasn't sure since there was mention of plugs and an O2 sensor. My own experience with syncrometers hasn't been good. I prefer to measure the amount each throttle plate is open at idle and listen to the carbs.

You wouldn't be adjusting mixture with a syncronmeter, just syncronizing the throttle plates for even air flow across the carbs.

Direction is the key word. Troubleshooting is more involved, more time consuming because there are tons more things that can go wrong with FI than carbs.

Of course FI is great when it works right. Old electronics are very unpredictable though. I'd rather have old carbs. Oh wait, I do have old carbs. Anyway, for me, troubleshooting, rebuilding and tuning carbs is second nature so I prefer them on my older vehicles. Trouble shooting FI can be a crap shoot. It's hard to tell whats going on when things don't work right.