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NA&CH
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Posts
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Joined
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About NA&CH
- User Group: Member
- Member ID: 28906
- Title: Unconfirmed User
- Content Count: 32
- Content Post Ratio: 0.01
- Reputation: 5
- Achievement Points: 194
- Member Of The Days Won: 0
- Joined: 02/17/2014
- Been With Us For: 4028 Days
- Last Activity:
- Currently:
- Age: 40
Clubs
Contact
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Map Location
Naples FL.
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Occupation
Cabinets and construction
My Cars
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Zcars Owned
240z
350z -
About me and my cars
72 230z, 03 Track, and 08 Nismo
Social Sites
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Website
Ejhcabinets.com
Recent Profile Visitors
1,259 profile views
NA&CH's Achievements
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NA&CH started following 1976 280Z Restoration Project
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NA&CH started following Re: MCK Recaro LX seats , What's in YOUR garage? and QuickJack BL-5000SLX - $1099 at HomeDepot Online
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I have the 5k from costco and love them. Used only on my nismo and worked great. I am getting ready to use on the 240 this weekend. Any pics of the ones who have used and where they lifted from? I assume pinch welds just never like to assume. Chris
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Sorry for the late reply. I am using Wedge seat brackets. Pretty good. Lined up nice. One slider is a little tough.(Drivers go figure). Height is good for me( 5'10") Chris
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NA&CH started following Parts for Sale: 1972 FSM For Sale
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David do you have a price for your old Z new owner? Chris
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I will. Thank you again. Watching between GoT episodes Haha. Already learned so much from first hour. I will be taking carbs off and cleaning again. Chris
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@7tooZ thank you so much for the DVD. I'll be watching it and I'll see where I went wrong. I am going to toy with this end of the engine then further investigate before tearing parts off. Love the Z community!!! Thank you, Chris
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Well I am back... busy with my business and figured I would tinker(bc looking at non running beauty kills me). It takes work to get a to start after it sits for a while. Once I did start it and adjust idle screw(still no ztherapy dvd) my fuel gauge would read 3-4 psi. Once warm and idling rough(I feel) and at 750-800 it was below 3psi. I have never dropped the tank nor changed the fuel pump. I have changed the filter from the tank pictured earlier. Would I gain or narrow anything by routing a line direct from the filter to the hard lines in the engine bay and the return direct to tank? Eliminate the hard lines under the car for a test? Change the fuel pump for a new one? Still searching for an answer for the ole girl. Chris
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I thought that as well. I will get one of those. I have a fuellab from my old 350z. It goes to a 100psi. Maybe a constant reading. With a better gauge is this something normal? Jumping? Or could this be a fuel pump issue? Thanks guys. Chris
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Video is the cad running and the gauge bouncing back and forth very rapid. Should the gauge be constant with the fuel psi? Chris
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It's been a minute. I have been busy with work and no time to play. I received the fuel gauge and t for testing. I took a video. I am starting to believe my issue is in the rear of the car. Thoughts on video? Chris 20180814_181736.mp4
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No I have not. I need to do that and read read read the several pages I have marked about the SU. I picked up tube but way to big. Need some smaller hose. I found the picture with the coat hanger and marking the bowl at 23mm from top of bowl. Boca not far from Marco hahaha. Does anyone have contact info for Ztherapy. I would like to see if they have the Just Su DVD hell I'll buy a VHS and tube tv... Chris
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Same here. I'll fly you in for a weekend. Hahaha Yes the adjustment screws on the bottom of the carbs. I was just tinkering with items and when I adjust the nozzle height nothing changes on the rear carb. I do notice the hose going to the float bowl is stuck. The one that is connected to the choke cable. And typing this probably means I have the choke cables connected while adjusting...The rear carb is cleaned. I set the needle height. The air coming from both carbs is set,(using this term lightly) to 5 on the syncroguage. Not using the unisyn. I am going through and reading the carb tuning adjustment threads. I need to watch some videos. On the rear carb no matter where the adjustment screw is the car stalls when I pick the the piston. The front carb ig elevates and settles out. The rear always wants to die. Chris
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Just played with the adjustment. Seams like the carbs are pulling the same. I will have to take the car out for a drive tomorrow. I have my mechanic friend coming to check out the battery issue. Car idles at 1k. Cant get that lower unless I am doing it wrong. Going by the dirty su adjustment. They both suck the same. The balance screw was down about 3/8" inch and when bliping the throttle the front car did nothing. I backed that out and now the balance screw / bar is sloppy but both make the sucking sound. I have yet to adjust the rich lean screws. Have not been able to drive. I am going to get new gas and put some in for the ride tomorrow. See what happens. Should the balance bar set screws be "sloppy loose" Thanks again everyone. Chris
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Car runs and idles. Driving was the issue. The car would sputter under throttle. The car has about an 1/8th of a tank of gas. Could that be my issue all along? Never had any issue with the car doing 45-1hr trips in Florida April may heat. I have been reading the dirty su carb tuning. I will try some and try to drive it tomorrow. The battery issue is prob from the push button ignition or cig lighter. The electronic distributor parts were brought up and I figured changing them out anyway. Thanks again, Chris