NA&CH

CruiZer(currently not) & Racer... Chris

I have the 5k from costco and love them. Used only on my nismo and worked great. I am getting ready to use on the 240 this weekend. Any pics of the ones who have used and where they lifted from? I assume pinch welds just never like to assume. Chris

Sorry for the late reply. I am using Wedge seat brackets. Pretty good. Lined up nice. One slider is a little tough.(Drivers go figure). Height is good for me( 5'10") Chris

Love my seats from them. Now I need the interior to match it ??

David do you have a price for your old Z new owner? Chris

I will. Thank you again. Watching between GoT episodes Haha. Already learned so much from first hour. I will be taking carbs off and cleaning again. Chris

@7tooZ thank you so much for the DVD. I'll be watching it and I'll see where I went wrong. I am going to toy with this end of the engine then further investigate before tearing parts off. Love the Z community!!! Thank you, Chris

Well I am back... busy with my business and figured I would tinker(bc looking at non running beauty kills me). It takes work to get a to start after it sits for a while. Once I did start it and adjust idle screw(still no ztherapy dvd) my fuel gauge would read 3-4 psi. Once warm and idling rough(I feel) and at 750-800 it was below 3psi. I have never dropped the tank nor changed the fuel pump. I have changed the filter from the tank pictured earlier. Would I gain or narrow anything by routing a line direct from the filter to the hard lines in the engine bay and the return direct to tank? Eliminate the hard lines under the car for a test? Change the fuel pump for a new one? Still searching for an answer for the ole girl. Chris

I thought that as well. I will get one of those. I have a fuellab from my old 350z. It goes to a 100psi. Maybe a constant reading. With a better gauge is this something normal? Jumping? Or could this be a fuel pump issue? Thanks guys. Chris

Video is the cad running and the gauge bouncing back and forth very rapid. Should the gauge be constant with the fuel psi? Chris

It's been a minute. I have been busy with work and no time to play. I received the fuel gauge and t for testing. I took a video. I am starting to believe my issue is in the rear of the car. Thoughts on video? Chris 20180814_181736.mp4

No I have not. I need to do that and read read read the several pages I have marked about the SU. I picked up tube but way to big. Need some smaller hose. I found the picture with the coat hanger and marking the bowl at 23mm from top of bowl. Boca not far from Marco hahaha. Does anyone have contact info for Ztherapy. I would like to see if they have the Just Su DVD hell I'll buy a VHS and tube tv... Chris

Same here. I'll fly you in for a weekend. Hahaha Yes the adjustment screws on the bottom of the carbs. I was just tinkering with items and when I adjust the nozzle height nothing changes on the rear carb. I do notice the hose going to the float bowl is stuck. The one that is connected to the choke cable. And typing this probably means I have the choke cables connected while adjusting...The rear carb is cleaned. I set the needle height. The air coming from both carbs is set,(using this term lightly) to 5 on the syncroguage. Not using the unisyn. I am going through and reading the carb tuning adjustment threads. I need to watch some videos. On the rear carb no matter where the adjustment screw is the car stalls when I pick the the piston. The front carb ig elevates and settles out. The rear always wants to die. Chris

Just played with the adjustment. Seams like the carbs are pulling the same. I will have to take the car out for a drive tomorrow. I have my mechanic friend coming to check out the battery issue. Car idles at 1k. Cant get that lower unless I am doing it wrong. Going by the dirty su adjustment. They both suck the same. The balance screw was down about 3/8" inch and when bliping the throttle the front car did nothing. I backed that out and now the balance screw / bar is sloppy but both make the sucking sound. I have yet to adjust the rich lean screws. Have not been able to drive. I am going to get new gas and put some in for the ride tomorrow. See what happens. Should the balance bar set screws be "sloppy loose" Thanks again everyone. Chris

Car runs and idles. Driving was the issue. The car would sputter under throttle. The car has about an 1/8th of a tank of gas. Could that be my issue all along? Never had any issue with the car doing 45-1hr trips in Florida April may heat. I have been reading the dirty su carb tuning. I will try some and try to drive it tomorrow. The battery issue is prob from the push button ignition or cig lighter. The electronic distributor parts were brought up and I figured changing them out anyway. Thanks again, Chris

Thanks a bunch for the ideas and tips guys. I have my auto mechanic(electrical) going to search the power pull this weekend. One of the very first comments was that the electronic parts I had could by my issue. I know I opened a "can of worms" with the carbs but if there is not enough spark getting to the sngine could that cause anything with the carbs? Typing this and reading makes believe I know that answer... Just typing out loud. I'll look up float bowl adjustment. And check things off... Any YouTube watches I should look at? Chris

@Captain Obvious nothing from ztherapy. I called and spoke with @Bruce Palmer and he told me to call Steve. The number for Steve just rings. Oh well. I am lost. I received the gaskets for the float bowl. Installed and no leaks. Also no fuel flowing from the velocity stack. So 1 thing I think may be fixed. The level. I'll have to check that. I blew into the fuel line and played with the float bracket so it would be parallel with the top. All items work here. The pin there is no leak or something stuck. I did notice nothing changes when I take the vacuum hose off of the distributor. I also read try blowing into the distributor through the hose. Nothing moves and the engine does not change idle, die nothing. The car will not start with 2.5 turns down from the adjustment screw. I had to go to 4 turns to get it to start and idle. I feel the car is working on the back 3 and that is all. I have in my possession a flame thrower 1.5ohm and the electronic spark parts. Should I change those out and then start playing with the carbs? I also purchased a new balance bar bc my OEM one was missing the spring screw on the front carb side. Originally zip tied together. And looks like the new one with the screw is no different. I am missing something here. Anyone want to sell me a Just SU video? I am looking for the white towel emoji.... Thanks all again, Chris Oh and I have something pulling power enough to kill off a brand new optima redtop battery....

I emailed Ztherapy. The carbs are theirs from 04. I was seeing if they had anything new done or just another rebuild in the future. Spoke with Pam. Chris

@Captain Obvious I purchased the z with a "msa" header and straight 3" bent metal... car was obnoxiously loud. Car ran and drove perfectly fine. 45min cruises no issues at all in FL. I did have always a half to full tank. I never really got into the throttle say to redline yo see if I had any sputter or missing of sorts. The car was to loud. But this issue would have definitely been felt. I purchased a Zstory exhaust and had that installed. Changed nothing else besides the exhaust. When the car returned i took the car out for a test sound drive. First to second then i roll into the throttle once i got past 4k the car started to sputter and would shut down the tech would jump fuller redline to 0 back to rpm. Then idle fine. I u-turn do the same thing and the c Ir shuts off and does not turn over. Eventually when cooked down it started up idled ok. The car had a 1/4 or lower. Closer to 1/8 tank. I then replaced the gas filter after the fuel pumps out back. I drove into the carb cleaning and now cant di anything until my gasket arrives. Vacuum seemed fine; compression 170-180 across the board. I did notice before pulling the front carb off that when I would blip throttle there was no suction. I adjust the mixture screw(behind dashpot by connector rod) before I knew the adjustment screw below. Never did do a test drive before the gasket broke on the float tank. Mechanic also said the float angle was way off. Hope this helps helping me @Captain Obvious Thank you all for the help, Chris

Waiting on parts to fix some items. I have tried to call Ztherapy several times are they still doing carbs? I spoke with Bruce and he told me to call Steve and no answer? The number Bruce gave me just rings for a few minutes. I will see when I receive the gasket for the float and adjust the float if that works for me. I went by a Mechanics shop who works on antiques. A lot of euros and he was telling me to clean the needle with 1k sand paper clean it up a little? Anything on this? Thanks again, Chris

The rear carb I push and it works freely. It also has the return spring. Front carb when I push the pin it is a struggle to push it and it "comes down" no clunk. A slight sound. I have ordered a new coil and electronic ignition. PerTronix system. The gaskets for float and Misc screws for the balance bar. Also a call into Ztherapy. Chris

Thank you mark. I meant the oil dip stick. When that is in the piston is tough and not smooth. I order some gaskets and su oil for the proper parts. I thought the markings were Ztherapy. I have a call into them about their carbs. But if I have a set maybe just a rebuild. They are from 04 though. Chris

Front float bowl pics. Chris

Cleaned the front carb. Saw some markings. Any idea what they mean or are for. Also the piston pin with oil seams to be causing the piston to drag? Without the pin in the piston is free moving. With it installed it is tough to push up and it slides down... my gas gasket is broken and need a new one. Loss fuel in start up... Gas is also dripping from velocity stack just sitting. I turned the jet adjustment all the way lean when it was out. Righty tighty. Also should getting the float out be a royal PITA and me being afraid of breaking it? Next rear carb cleaning. But I need a gasket to see if what I did was good.

Using the Uni-syn and the front carb has little to no air pulling when at 2k. The rear is working. It is rich but working. What would cause the front carb to not be "working" or is this normal. Also where should the distributor be set at advance wise? Reading how to tune Su carbs now... Chris