rossiz

she was a bit to shy to get a pic - but i think we got a few more refills than we really needed just for the visits

so glad it worked out - always cool to see something repaired with skill and ingenuity vs. the "just throw new parts at it" approach. you are a hero. now get it tuned to blue's level and post a video!

nothing like burning a half day talking cars and hanging out w/like-minded enthusiasts! mark's wife kindly provided homemade goodies for the lads, and jim showed us what a hot-shot engine bay looks like ;} the rain cleared up just long enough for some tire-kicking and ogling of shiny-bits, looking forward to doing it again soon. good food, a pretty coffee girl and plenty of motor-head talk = an excellent morning jim's sweet wheels a tidy bay... it was mark's turn to have the z that wasn't running - so he got to look at the other cars and drive home in the wagon. something tells me we'll get to swap that honor another time...

there is a technique cal flame-spray that is used to rebuild cranks. it's sort of like welding, but a pair of wires arc in the presence of pressurized inert gas and deposit a fine spray of molten metal which welds to the base surface, which is being turned in a lathe during the process to receive an even coat. they use this to build up the surface then turn it down to spec. an interesting benefit of this process is that you can deposit different metals on top of the base metal - bronze on steel or harder grades onto milder base materials. it's used to re-build the huge turbine shafts for hydropower plants (much cheaper than a new shaft).

that is great to hear - i saw oreilly sells rebuilt heads under the power torque brand and was wondering what kind of service they would come with. this bodes well.

how cool... you get to polish up and refresh your way to a perfect car! looking forward to following the progress.

beautiful! you should get a "most patient customer" award for sure

thanks for posting these great pics - i'm watching and learning

nice!

i feel your pain - spent a ton of time tracing through the system and replacing parts, many trips home by tow truck, but when it's working correctly the system is actually pretty darn dependable and runs well. patience and you will get there...

i'm pretty sure they make an adaptor plate to mount this to the z - it works off the front bumper mounts. and they sell a PTO kit from the oil pump shaft to run it...

Just wanted to toss out an invite to anyone in the area - Mark Maras, myself and Jim (S30Driver) will be meeting up for brunch in Enumclaw, WA at the Lee Hotel 10:00 am this coming Saturday. Mark and I have been trying to get together to swap stories and carbs, and will be driving up from Oregon, and Jim is getting ready to move out of state, so we figured we'd open it up to fellow z folks in the area. Nothing formal, no planned drive or show, just some car talk and a feast our wives wouldn't approve of. The address is 1110 Griffin Ave. and there is plenty of parking on the East side of Railroad Ave.(Kasey Kahne Blvd.) Anyone interested?

just received a box of shiny goodies from mike at vintage chrome - my hood vents are now beautiful!! these vents were painted by the PO and while in good shape, they were far from perfect. mike had them cleaned up and plated and now they look like jewelry. very satisfied with what he's been able to do for a very reasonable price. not only is the finish flawless, they got the polish to a level that actually provides accurate reflections - photos don't do it justice, i'm impressed. hope to get them installed this afternoon and will post more pics. highly recommend these guys for making z parts shine!

A dial indicator and a degree wheel will get it right. It's surprising how much play there is at top of the stroke. You can do the "split the difference " method a lot more accurate with a hard stop - make one from an old plug and gently turn to contact in both directions then measure halfway btwn the marks

looks beautiful - exciting to see the progress!

back when my car was built, getting "chipped" meant seeing ponch & john in the rear view mirror...

glad you caught it - i shudder to think about how much damage those pieces could have inflicted if they flew apart in the upper rev range.

moving the sprocket advances the cam - it think each cam sprocket number advances it around 4 degrees. this advancement compensates for chain stretch, which would retard the cam. i don't know where the factory setting (lining up the notches) puts the cam to start with, but in my experience with motorcycle engines, advancing the cam around 5 degrees gives a nice performance boost. a degree wheel and a dial indicator will tell the story for sure.

another way to test the fuel pump is with the engine not running and key in the "on" position pull the spade connector off the oil pressure sender - pump should start up and you'll be able to hear it swooshing through the return lines from the engine bay. edit: i just saw from your signature that you have a '76 - i think your fuel cutoff switch might be in the AFM, the oil-pressure switch was used after 77...

my understanding is that when the engine is up to temp, its within a predictable range, because the cooling system is designed to keep it there. when it's cold, it can be 70 degrees out or 0 degrees out - both are considered "cold" but potentially big swings as well. doing the valves hot has never been a problem for me - just have the few tools necessary all at the ready, car in neutral, pull the plugs, pop the valve cover and check/adjust as you go. i turn the cam with a big crescent wrench at the bosses to get lobes up. i start at #1 and things are still too hot to handle when i get to #6. interestingly, i've always found a few tight, a few loose when i do a hot adjust after a cold one, but when i've done a hot adjust and check later on (after running a few days) it's always been spot on. i adjust to snug fit, where the next size feeler gauge won't go in.

wow, we need to meet up before you skip town - give me a call and let's find a time. and my green-eyed Lillith is actually running at present!

nice!

just throwing this out there, but my '78 gave me lots of grief due to the efi relay - i was doing the classic shade-tree "wiggle test" to various connections and found that pressure on the wiring was causing the relay to flex and the connection wasn't being made internally. just a thought...

great to hear you got her out for a spin. not sure i'm reading your post correctly, but valve lash isn't "all 0.010" - cold it's .008 for intake and .010 exhaust, hot is .010 intake, .012 exhaust. hot adjustment is much more accurate because you're at a predictable temp range. if you're really at "all .010" then that may explain why she sounds like a kenworth...

excellent! looks/sounds mean - i see what ya mean about those custom plug leads... it will be much tidier when the dizzy shaft is spun around correctly. btw - my original exhaust plan was to put the muffler in the tunnel and the resonator at the tip to avoid seeing the muffler hang down below the fender on the drivers side. i mocked this up and was happy w/the sound, but my exhaust guy built it the other way by accident. never went back to get it fixed, but someday i will...