123ignitionusa

Bravo on the install video. ? Great Job! Just a follow up regarding this particular 123ignition distributor. Upon receipt of the unit, I installed it in my 1969 MGC where it has been working flawlessly since. New price on rotor after review. Plus free shipping in Continental USA. Thanks for the support from the Classiczcars. Hope this helps Ed

There is no short cut to good lighting if grounds are failing and connections are dirty as Steve said. However these will outshine the originals and have a very nice pattern to them. You won't be sorry you tried them. And best of all they are glass not plastic.

I have had a few ask if there is any problem running the 123ignition with the old tachometer. To my knowledge there is no problem. However, if you do need to have your tachometer repaired there are two companies that do the conversions to add modern electronics so they will work with the modern ignitions of today. I had mine repaired in 2006 by JDO in the UK. I can't say enough good about them and their service. They are: http://www.jdo1.com/ and http://www.nisonger.com/ If you have any issues and fixes post them here.

I have had a few ask if there is any problem running the 123ignition with the old tachometer. To my knowledge there is no problem. However, if you do need to have your tachometer repaired there are two companies that do the conversions to add modern electronics so they will work with the modern ignitions of today. I had mine repaired in 2006 by JDO in the UK. I can't say enough good about them and their service. They are: http://www.jdo1.com/ and http://www.nisonger.com/ If you have any issues and fixes post them here.

Wow, it's been since 2006 that I had that conversion done.... I think it was around $200

I have a classic 69 MGC although it is not a Z the original bulbs were not the best. Here is what I have found and will not turn back. Extremely pleased with the original look and superior lighting.

I have had a couple of people recently ask if there are any issues with the oem tachometer operating with the 123ignition. If so what have you done to correct the problem? Should this be a separate topic so it is easier to find? In my personal application which is not Datsun but rather a 1969 Smiths tachometer I sent it to John Ostick at JDO Instruments in the UK. He actually replaces the insides with a modern tach while retaining the original face and needle for that nostalgic look.

Sorry these wiring diagrams are a little late. But it should help others. Ed

Hi Gents Is anyone using the 123 with the L-Jet injection syatem? The manufacturer has always recommended using a coil of not less than 1-Ohm. Stay away from square coils they typically are .75-Ohm and lower. You may get away with it for a while but no guarantees. I personally use a Bosch Blue (3.4 Ohm). The Bosch Red is 1.2 Ohm. Ed

In appreciation for your support. 123ignitionusa Classic Z Coupon Code for 5% pricing discount. Enter Coupon Code: CLASSICZ5

Manuals and Software for the 123ignition are now found here as the 123ignitionusa site has changed a bit. And just a heads up the new Bluetooth version is available. http://123ignitionusa.com/pages.php?pageid=10

For what it's worth there are many of these 123ignitions being used in race applications w/o interruption. Here are a couple of links. http://pandbmotorsports.blogspot.com/ http://www.corinthianvintagerace.com/

I recently was contacted by a garage in need of the Distributor mount as seen at the top of my avatar. If you have one to sell PM me and I will put you in touch with the buyer. Thanks Ed

Thanks that helps a lot

Can anyone inform me about the fuel injection systems on the 260 and 280 Z cars? Really only two questions. 1) Do they act independently of the ignition system? 2)or Do they depend on an electrical trigger signal from the distributor? 123Ignitions will work with mechanical injection systems,,, so inquiring minds would like to know. Thanks in advance Ed

Here are a couple of videos from DAC House in Japan of the "Z" at the drags. They use the 123ignition and no doubt a few other tricks. enjoy...

Additional machining is being done to correct the problems. Jim I thought you would like to know I appreciate your detective work. All tolerances are being re worked.

What does the business end of the 2000 dizzy look like. The end that goes in the block.

It was almost imperceptible until I took the calipers to it. Jim nailed it. 0.018 difference from top to bottom. Easiest fix for now is slight taper of 0.010 per side. To put it in perspective that is about the thickness of a business card. Thanks Jim

Thanks Guys I will go 12.5 to 12.6 mm with each one before it goes out. Previously I was at 12.46 to 12.48. You have a great group of hobbyist, it's a pleasure working with you.

Granny Knot Can you do a screen shot of the Data input view for the benefit of your compadres? Are these your Numbers?

Yes, I was just curious to see where the switched version lined up. Of course the Tune is not effected as you index what you require. Thanks to you and Zed

Can you tell me what you typically run for all in advance as well as what rpm and what your idle advance is?

Yes, correct, 16 different curves selectable using a switch. Hope that helps

Some are interested in the pre mapped version. Here is a pdf of the curves. There are four ranges of max advance with four curves in each giving a total of 16 available curves. 27, 30, 33 and 36 degrees. In addition these are made to be set at TDC. Then you can rotate the distributor for fine tuning. Very much like old school. 123GB6RV[1] Copy.pdf