Unfairlady

So the car is still not running tip top. the warmer the car gets the worse the issue gets. til I get to the point where I cant touch the throttle at all. I think its the TPS. I took it apart and and it seems okay I aligned everything properly but it still is having problems. I thought I had everything exactly where it needs to be and still nothing. I have no idea anymore. I have checked everything..

Checked the compression all came out around 130-135. The car seems fine after I messed with the ignition a bit. found a leak on the thermostat housing and it was spraying right on the cap. Idk how I didn't see it before but It was a very small jet stream straight to the cap. Running 17 degrees advanced at idle on the dot. The car seems to want to over fuel. So I was going to try to adjust the AFM but it still will not rev above 3k rpm and I want to fix that before I get into the fuel ratio.

Got it running decent yesterday (still wont get above 3k RPM) but as the day went on the car seemed to be progressively getting worse mechanically. went on a drive to the gas station (around 8 miles away) by the time I got back the car was white smoking a tad bit on starts. temp was good. I didn't rag it I just cruised there and back. started missing out. so I parked it. I checked the compression when I first picked it up but Idk if it was because the car hadnt been ran in awhile the compression checked out fine but I don't know if something happened in between now and then. (I turned it over by hand when I was at the PO house to check the compression) So I am running another compression check tonight if I get the chance and seeing if maybe from sitting for so long then me messing with it caused something. I may end up in a l28 rebuild very soon. If so I am going to go higher compression flat tops and just order some webers and try to avoid FI.

I was going to try to get time tonight to check that.. and the plugs I checked and they seemed fine Sunday. Is there any other electrical sensor that could cause symptoms like this that I could check while I am at it?

Alright so I received that NA AFM and it didn't really help. I think there is something in my fuel rail maybe. I am not sure but whatever it is is getting worse and worse. It won't even move right now honestly. It won't hold an idle and is missing out bad. I am going to pull the fuel rail tomorrow and hopefully that has something to do with it.. And Hellfire, I've never heard of that before. Maybe in the future I may switch to something like that depending on price and such but for now I really just want to be able to get it going . It's becoming really stressful. And on my other car with MS3 I built it and all the such but it was more of a wiring harness issue. It was my first EMS swap and I am not much for tuning and the engine I had it running was an engine that no one really did anything like that that I could find. So i had to ballpark my tune and shoot from there and its just bad memories. I would rather not deal with that for a little bit. But atleast on this I would have good support because obviously people have done it before.

I would run a Mega Squirt but I would rather not deal with that. I had problems with my last MS. And once I get a NA AFM and go threw it alittle more I may take you up on that offer. Are you apart of "IMIN"?

That's you guys have been so helpful. Well I do have a regulator on it now so I can dial the fuel pressure in just right. And I believe they are all NA injectors. They are all that light green color and I thought the turbo ones were like a darker color of some sorts..

Alright so I put a fuel pressure gauge in and heres what I got what the fuel pump kicks on before the car start: And this is while its running at idle: And it would increase with the R's up to like 45 psi. It'll still rev like i said but under torque it wont go above 2500rpm. and It starts to get worse the longer the car runs. I really really wish I had a l24 and carbs... :disappoin

Yeah I was saying I don't have my pressure gauge to check. I coulda swore I had a pressure regulator with a gauge attached to it and I was just going to put it on there to check the pressure with the gauge. not to regulate the actual pressure of the fuel. And yes :stupid: I just looked through the thread and saw that again and it reminded me. I apologize and I will PM after I finaly get a chance to check to see if my fuel pressure is good. I think it was surging last night when I started it so I think that there is something clogged up somewhere but even if thats so it may not be all of my problem. Thanks

Can't find my fuel pressure regulator with a gauge, which is what I was going to use last night to see if I had adequate pressure. Got so frustrated I just went an ordered a cheap one. Not sure when it will be in but when it is I'll get back to this thread. Also if you know anyone that would like to trade my turbo AFM (a31-625 000) for a NA (a11-600 000 specifically) get ahold of me.

Sounds good to me! keep us posted on that. Oh and I went ahead and just grabbed a ruler (crude way to measure it I know). But here you go. its bigger then 2.75" at least but not by much.

Okay but with the NA injectors and the NA harness and ECM if I just got a AFM from a NA car (a31-060 001). then I wouldn't have to even open up a AFM or anything just slap it on and it'd work (lazy mans way out). correct? then I won't need to even do some fancy calibrating or anything. That's if the fuel system is fine.

Yeah that makes sense with the AFM, but I am wondering if that would make it get worse and worse.? and I feel like with the turbo AFM wouldn't it want to over fuel. not lean out? I don't understand any of this datsun stuff so I am just going to roll with what you said ha your definitely more on it then me. I'll just tell the fuel pressure and then I'll go from there. shouldn't take too long to do that anyways. (And yeah haha, it was 68 here yesterday (I even road the motorcycle) and it hasnt broken 36 degrees today and it was supposed to snow sometime today. And I was trying to fix the starter on my brothers mustang in my nice warm garage and of course when you go to fix something for someone they immediately ask you to "fix this and fix that" next thing I know I am putting a windage tray in and figuring out a mounting solution for his catch can.. now my garage has been taken over by a mustang...)

Yeah I am going to go get one tomorrow and put it in line. and the car looks really good in that picture. much better then what it actually looks. the cars got the clear coat coming off of it now. I was planning on repainting it here in a few months but I want to get it running flawlessly first.

I looked up the numbers on this extra distributor and people are referring to it as a Turbo Dizzy distributor people apparently use it with the MS, otherwise it wont work. or at least that's what I am getting outta these. And I just won't open the AFM then.. Ill throw a gauge in the fuel system and see what I get here in a bit. The garage is full at the moment and its dropped almost 30 degrees since yesterday, don't think I can stand being out there much longer. Hopefully have the fuel pressure checked by tomorrow evening and then I ca go from there with the AFM if nothing checks out. Again thanks for your guys input.

Alright so here we go. I went to check the Distributor and took a couple pictures then I found another distributor in the box of goodies that came with the car: and the distributors are clearly different? the distributor from my box of goodies looks to be older then the one on the car. I also took a picture of where the rubber lines go into the fuel rail just for a reference. I will open up the AFM tonight sometime. and I did check the wiring harness and it is going back to that ECM (a11-600 000) And I was reading up elsewhere and I thought they said the turbo 81-83 AFM were wired up differently then the 75-78 NA AFM. I have came to the conclusion of switching this to a simple NA. and I've already built a custom harness for one of my other projects cars and I would rather not even touch the wiring but I think I may have to either way. The harness in some spots looks like it's already been hacked and chopped. Also with my car I can rev it as high as it needs to be but when I am actually trying to pull the car down the road it will kill itself off at about 1500 rpms now. So I am beginning to think that it is the fuel filter or something because it's the only thing that would explain the going lean becoming more and more of a issue. So as the sediment in the tank gets into the fuel filter it starts starving itself more and more. That's logical right? because the AFM would just stay at about the same RPM not get worse and worse? And the car supposedly had been sitting for over 2 years when I picked it up, So that makes logical sense. I also figured I'd throw in some pictures of the car just to show you guys what your helping me with: Another thing on that AFM thing, IDK about switching just yet. I've been hearing alot of mixed answers on the AFM being able to work and not being able to work. Which in my other automotive experience I would say that it'd be the most likely thing to be the issue but I don't know these. the oldest car I've ever messed with that still had electronics was a 95 chevy it was running off a manifold pressure. everything else was either Carb'd or was too new to even worry about stuff like this.

You know what. I am going to pull the gas tank tomorrow and check that just to see if maybe there is crud in the tank and I'll change the fuel filter to. maybe thats got something to do with it. IDK but I have no other plans tomorrow anyways so might as well clean and check the tank.

Yeah I checked the engine block and it is a F54. I took a light and tried to look but from what I could tell it was a flat top piston but Idk I coulda just not had a good enough view. And I set everything up so that it was using that AFM like a NA engine and just left the turbo in the exhaust. But the car still wont rev above 2500k. I was looking and I thought that the AFM from a turbo car wouldnt work with a NA ECU. And it still makes no since though why itll idle fine but when I get to 2500 rpm it acts like its hit a rev limiter almost. Its very odd. I believe the distributor set up is straight from the 83 turbo car just like the block and the heads. So idk if thats my problem or what.

So now I am trying to find the correct AFM for my ECU and I think its the A31-060 001 that goes with my ECU which is A11-600 000. Am I correct to believe this? and where would be a good place to come across a re-manufactured one without sending in the core because obviously I don't have one. Thanks guys you've been alot of help

Yeah I am starting to think I will just go back to a NA set up. If I ordered the correct AFM would the engine run correctly even though the compression ratio is so low at the moment? Until I decide to switch the heads out. and I thought that my block was flat top pistons.? so wouldn't with any other head I would be running like over 10:1 compression ratio? I thought it was already 8.8 CR.

Here are some picture I have taken. I decided to bypass the turbo and run it as if it was a NA. It will rev above 3k but when the car is pulling itself down the road and you actually put the engine under torque it kills itself off at about 2500-3000 rpm. I'm wondering if my fuel pump is not sufficient enough for the injectors above that. I'm going to try to attach those pictures:

Hmmmmmm, well the injectors are green. well how about after I make it home from work I'm going to take some picture and post them up here. and the AFM is right in front of the turbo apposed to right in front of the throttle body. where it comes stock on the l28et is where it is now. So i think I have NA injectors. On a turbo engine.. How hard is it to find a 81-83 turbo ECU and Harness? because I can't seem to find one that's not been molested I am just going to take alot of pictures of cast numbers and stuff tonight and post them up. See if we can't figure out what I have.. Because I am pretty sure I know but I was never a Datsun/Nissan guy up until this point so I may be way wrong.

Thank you that confirms what I was thinking and Yes it is turbod he pulled the engine from a 83 280zx turbo. all numbers match a 83 turbo on the engine and has the Air Research turbo. It goes lean at about 2500 like I said, So like you said I was thinking the ECU must be a NA, I don't really care if its a fast car. I just wanted a low rust 240z. So next question if the AFM checks out as a NA because from what I am deducting the wiring harness is for a NA as well. I grab a header for a p90a which is a square port head and move the MAF to to the correct position on the NA engine and hope he hasn't modified the harness at all. which from what I can tell he hasn't, and technically it should run. Next question is the 70-76 square port E31 head the same size ports and location as the P90a head because its also a square port.? or Do I have to specifically buy a header built for the 81-83 turbo P90 head.

Alright so this is my first Datsun. Bought it about two weeks ago and how I assumed I got a deal on it I was quickly reminded of why I hate buying modified cars. I'll explain it like this: It's a 73 240z, I bought the car from a guy who said that the car had already been l28et swapped. He told me it used to run and that the cam gear had sheared off the previous motor and that he had just put this motor in he found in a savage yard from a 83 280zx turbo, and explained that he didn't have time for it anymore because he had another project he was too busy working on. I quickly looked over the car. saw it had a P90a head so I figured sure its a turbo head atleast, the car was low on rust, and the man seemed honest enough. Well I got the car home on a trailer and started looking over everything. Started well enough but would act weird above 2500 rpm. I started look at everything and realized that the O2 wire wasn't going anywhere. So I started looking for the male plug in for 02 sensor. Can't find it. I start wondering if I'm blind and start looking up diagrams to see if I can find what color wire it is to see if somehow the wire got placed somewhere else by accident and somehow itd still start. I finally got frustrated enough to check the ECM and found the tag: Part no.: A11-600-000 Lot no.: 5Z12 For: L28 Boom. I look it up and from what I can tell the ECM is for a 75-78 NA l28 and then I start looking and come to find out these don't have O2 sensors (never had a car that wasn't carbed and didn't have a oxygen sensor)?? This is where I start to get lost. I am beginning to think that the car was a l28 swapped car when he bought it. no turbo and this guy just threw a turbo l28 engine in it thinking he could just do that. plug everything in and "yay, I've got a turbo car" when he realized lifes not that easy he sold it. Okay so.... That ECM Part no. is that specifically for a 75-78 l28 non turbo car? Did they have oxygen sensors or not? How can I tell what the AFM is for? Whats the differences in the harness between a 75-78 l28 non turbo harness and a 83 l28et? If this is a AFM and a ECU for a NA could I just throw a header on this engine and call it a day or would this be hell to make work with this ECU or what? Anything could be helpfull. I know this is a very open ended question in a way and I realize I am a noob and I did search but I am so confused with what I have at this moment I'm alittle lost on what even to search for... Thanks for anything.