HuD 91gt

Thanks Zedhead. I finally found my manuals with electrical diagrams. It looks to me I still need to run a fairly heavy gauge wire to the fuse panel. But other then a small wire to the gauge, and a “fused” wire to the alternator I do think I’m good.

Hello, After searching this topic it has come up many times in the past. Some links are dead, and some have given me some information regarding the voltmeter, but none about rewiring. I have a highly modified 240z for which I’ve discovered the large 10gauge WR wire to be in beyond dangerous shape behind the dash (melted connectors, insulation cracking all over). I have an upgraded 140amp GM alternator and a full EFI system with individual ignition coils, electric fans etc running from the battery. I’ve never run into these fuse able links which are described anywhere... perhaps the root of my problem. I am looking to replace the WR wire completely, and install a later model voltmeter from a 280z (given to me from a local member). In simplified terms, would I be running a heavy gauge (fused) wire from the alternator, to the starter (eventually to the battery) as well as a wire from the alternator into the cabin for the fuse panel (with a parallel wire running to the new gauge)? Or have I somehow completely over simplified the system? Any suggested on fuse ratings?

Well, I tightened everything up (differentials/control arm mounts) and checked again. The little bit of play is still there. I then tightened the axle nut to 225f/lb to see if it made any difference. Not a bit. I should have thought about this a little harder though, as all surfaces in the front and back and up and down “portions” are a press fit (when holding the tire from the side. Tightening the bolt really wouldnt do anything. More of an “in and out” when pushing and pulling the wheel. Jonathon, you do have me worried that I mixed up my spacers now. It “could” happen. Argh. I would pull them again but I had to rent the slide hammer last time. The axle which now has movement had none prior to changing. The other side now has none, where it had some play before (bearings really were shot on this side). I swapped them all out with Beck Arnley units. Sadly only the outers were Japanese Made. Hoping the Chinese inners don’t cause me grief.

If I grab the tire in the 3 and 9 o’clock position, and push with right hand, pull with left, then the opposite I can actually get a small clunk. i remembered I haven’t tightened the front controls arm/diff bracket completely since rrmoving the diff. I will do that to see if the actually control arm is rocking.

Just bringing this back up to the top as I’m doing the final adjustments with my rear bearings. Assembled and tighten the left rear up to 190f/lb. I don’t feel any play. I then noticed I left out the copper washer discussed above. Sincethis would have been installed afterwards I am ok with leaving it out. i have now tightened the right rear to 220f/lb and there is noticeable play when I put the tire on and give it some force. This side had no copper washer. It was also extremely tight on disassembly (although as stated the other side had a copper washer and should have been much less tight). It is possible I mixed up the axles as I was preparing and cleaning them. Spacers are still on the correct side. Should I be worried if i mixed them up?

I drilled an appriately sized hole in a piece of 3/8” steel which supported the race and taped it through. Thanks guys.

Perfect. Thanks for the info! I find that really strange. Ha

The bearings are from Beck Arnley. The outer is a Japanese made made unit. im not new to installing bearings, what im confused about is the fact the inner bearing seems to be the same diameter as the outer. Sadly I didn’t lube the first section as I expected it to be a smaller diameter and slip right over. With the temperature difference between parts it slid on far enough I can’t remove without getting a little creative and hopefully not damage the bearing. If this is way it is supposed to be, I’ll manage to get it off, refeeeze/heat and be ready to press/tap immediately

Hello, i was following the AtlanticZ website when changing my rear wheel bearings. I froze the rear axles, heated the bearing and tried to slip it on. I only got partway onto the inner machined surface for the outer bearing. It seems really odd that I would have to press the bearing over one surface before even getting to the surface it is suppose to mount too. Did I get the wrong bearings?

^ That's a definite possibilty.

I was under my car the other day, and those drivers side wires are just hanging there. I couldn't remember if it was supposed to be like that but the car still works My engine and transmission have been in and out several times though so it's possible they were dislodged? As for the shifter, my '71 required slight trimming, and the 260z shifter worked fine.

Where's this video? ha

Exactly, "race cam" is a bit of flakey term. Just like Stage 1, Stage 2 etc that we so often hear. Jibberish. Chickenman, FYI the increase in idle ignition timing in Tune #5 was just a test. I backed it off as I didn't really see any real benefit, and still wanted some real improvement for a idle "correction" in the lower RPM range. 23 degrees worked, for the correction, but I wasn't seeing any real benefit in idle quality. 20 degrees works well for idle, 22 for the low RPM correction. Anyone else with an aftermarket cam have any vacuum readings at idle?

It is a P90 head that has been shaved a few times for straightness. The reason the CR is lower is the CC has had some material removed during the porting. The head has never been shaved to increase CR. Cam was degreed properly with an adjustable cam gear. Somewhere along the lines in my learning process I dropped the chain tensioner and ended up putting in an OEM cam gear as I ended up dialing it in at one full tooth advanced(Or was it retarded?) from a "stock setup". Don't ask my why, but now i've lost that adjustable cam gear somewhere in my moves. This all happened in the first couple hundred KM of the rebuild. I ordered a new one just to play around. The slots in the OEM gear are much too large (4 degrees). Reason I am suspicious, is the "Z man of Washington", (A fairly reputable Z business man in PNW) somewhere online stated no matter what cam you have, you should be seeing 14+" at idle unless it's an all out race cam. More curiosities sake then anything else. My car idles pretty decent. But, as you guys both mentioned. A lowish CR wouldn't help the situation. Was more a thread to see what other people are getting. So far, nothing too extreme.

Well that's good relevant info for sure. I still need to find a few hours to get the thing running again.