HuD 91gt

My physics mind, and my world knowledge are competing and battling for the right answer. Corrosion definitely increases resistance… Which combined with the equation completely contradicts why the current would increase. I'm just confused now. Using the equation, corrosion would increase the resistance, decrease the current and the only reason the fuse would blow would be a short circuit caused by said corrosion.

As others have stated. A few horrible connections will increase the resistance in the circuit. The engine probably has nothing to do with it. It is just takes a while for the resistance to build enough heat to blow the fuse. Start at the back and move forward.

I don't see this in the classifieds? EDIT: Just realized this was 2 years old.

Thanks for the reply guys! I might try and get it off this afternoon. I ended up purchasing a new rad, water pump and some electric fans yesterday so having to remove it is now not needed. I think the A/C is still coming out though.

Z dreams, if that's the case I guess i'm going the electric fan route. I don't think I have a chance of removing that bolt without an impact gun. Using the starter bump method i've seen online seems dangerous for me and my car. Silly question, but it is a standard thread bolt is it not (Counterclockwise to loosen).

Sorry, 1971 240z. Stock with aftermarket A/C(I think. York unit). The spacer is in there and it still doesn't clear. This pulled looks like ts held on by two bolts. I removed them and gave it a slight tap with a rubber mallet but no movement. Really don't want to be hitting the harmonic balancer. I'll try and get the pictures up soon. I guess the AC is coming out (never worked anyhow), or I'll go the electric fan route.

Hello, Trying to install a stock cooling fan to replace the flex lite fan that was in the car when I bought it. Once I got the stock fan installed I noticed it is rubbing the A/C portion (3rd row) of the crankshaft pulley. It looks like this third row is actually an add on to the 2 row pulley that is on there. The manual says to use a puller. Just curious if it is the same process with an "add on" pulley? I'll try and post a picture later when I'm on my computer.

1972 Exhaust Manifold. Picked it up off a local for free, and I decided i'm just going to go the header route. Free for anyone who wants to pay for shipping. Emissions piping is cut/pinched off and inside the manifold some of the tips are ground down to the cast manifold. Collector has been modified to what looks like a 2 1/4" collector. Vancouver Canada

I have the basic sync meter (The one in the ZTherapy video) made by Holley. Is there an advantage to the one you posted. A timing light is on my xmas list to myself. I would have purchased it a while ago but the timing procedure for an automatic sounds extremely daunting. So much so i've even sourced out a manual distributor i'm supposed to pick up next week.

Numbered 1 through 6 from left to right. This was after running the car for 5-10 minutes with the choke on. They look the same as when I pulled them 2 days ago, but the black sewt is new. I found a couple clamps off the balance tube which were loose, so I tightened those up. The erratic idle seems to be gone from this morning, but there is still the lack of power until 1400RPM or so when it just starts to pull hard. I really need to take it for a good drive and I won't be able to do that until at least next week. As for the idle, yes I am going by the stock tachometer. I have no other way to measure. Suggestions? To be continued.

Today the car was running even worse. Although it seemed inconsistent. It was also cooler today, although not much. The brake felt lousy, so I suspect a vacuum leak is part of the problem. Perhaps even the booster itself (A bit of an erratic idle today). I also enriched the front carb half a turn and the rear a 1/4. I' pulled the plugs and took pictures. You guys figure that was enough richening to get me back in the ballpark? Is it strange that they all seem to be different colours? I should also state, the choke was required to be on basically the entire time to keep it running (5-10 minute drive).

Yes, Day 1. No issues. The hesitation started the next day. I will try fiddling with the choke and will report back.

Hello all, 1971 240z automatic. Stock. If you guys have been following my threads on this vehicle, I purchased it about 6 months ago in the great US of A, and imported it into Canada. I've spent the last 6 months completely refreshing the front end, and some of the back as well as replacing some of the maintenance items for the engine. This includes points, cap, rotor, plug wires, and adjusting the carbs as per Ztherapy. After this work, the vehicle was finally legally registered yesterday and i've logged about 150km or so since. Yesterday the car ran quite well. This morning was a different story. After sitting for a minute or two in the underground letting the car warm up, I decided to leave the CO2 filled garage and exit. This means heading up the ramp to the road. Upon adding throttle it bogged down, and even misfired. With some light throttle I made it up the hill and let it warm up completely. Throughout the day I noticed a slight hesitation off idle. Fairly slow constant power for a few hundred RPM, and once it hits lets say 12-1500RPM it was as per normal (Or as normal as I know). This evening the problem continued. At a stop light I even hit the throttle hard, and the car acted as as it did on the garage ramp. Sputtering and cutting out. It even died. Not a safe situation. This problem persists only at low RPM's. Idle is sitting at around 750RPM in gear. Closer to 800 in neutral. I pulled the plugs yesterday evening and some had a light brownish tinge, and the others were cleaner indicating slightly lean. I decided to leave it be, and get a few more KM on the car before I made any more adjustments. Yesterday evening I was also fooling around with the fuse box as I was playing with the radio wiring. I don't think this had any effect, but it might right someones bell. As suggestions on where to start? I'm thinking the lean condition may have an effect, but you would thing it would have done it yesterday too? Which way do I turn to richen? I believe it's counter clockwise, but I'm not 100%

Well there you have it. Page 14 explained my answer. I only saw the reference on page 11. I'll take a look at mine again. It looks the same, perhaps there is something restricting it's movement. Thanks

The manual states I should have them. It does not state how they are operated. The turn signal stalk does not move forward or back. I fear to break it. But if that is how the operate, I may try pushing a little harder. Cheers

1971 240z. Finally was able to register my Z. It hit the road for a while yesterday, and then I realized I don't have high beams. Or I just don't know where the switch is. Should I be equipped with such a luxurious item?

I just did all my lines, and the right front was the worst one. I used a copper alloy so it was very easy to bend. Once I got the old one out, I copied the first half of it by matching it to the old one (Master side), then got the line back into the vehicle, and bent the rest of it from there. It seemed to be the easiest way with the engine and all the other junk in there. I don't know if this would be possible with a steel line. Just my experinece. As for the build, keep the pics coming!

Sounds like a vacuum leak. But I am no expert. I've heard of people using propane to detect leaks, if you spray it near a leak, the isle should technically smooth out. Once the propane is removed, your idle issue will return. Any connection in which you recently disconnected, make sure the connection is tight, and the hose is in good condition. I know nothing about deleting the EGR, but some of that vacuum tube routing looks sketchy. Including the bolt at the end of one of those tubes.

I believe Arizona Z Car has Springs that are stock height. http://www.arizonazcar.com/springs.html

I replaced the Rack bushings, and steering coupler already. Feels pretty good now since the alignment! Still movement in the wheels. Probably time to do the wheel bearding just because.

Well the 240z passed the inspection, and they also gave me a "Nice work" on everything I had done. I'lll pass that on to you guys too After the alignment, the car drives straight, and any looseness in the wheel actually seems to be gone. I don't really know how/why. I haven't tried wiggling the wheel to see if I still feel it there. All in all i'm happy. Besides the fact I'm still having issues registering the vehicle. I dislike people who are incompetent with their jobs. 3 visits, and 3 different answers. Ugh.

Ahh, interesting. Good to know. I had no idea there was a splined section in there. I'll have to investigate further.

This is what comes up when you search Motor Master & ATV700 & Kawasaki & Universal Joint. Doesn't look like what's on my steering shaft??

Well, I don't believe the splined section is my issues, unless it is the splined end near the rack. The upper section was completed rusted together and had no movement at all upon disassembly. I had to disconnect the isolator, to get some room to disconnect the shaft from the rack. I think a lot of the play comes from the universal joints. But I dropped the car off this morning. Such a joy to drive. I was also amazed to see the automatic transmission was actually shifting this time around! Must have had something to do with all the vacuum lines I changed out. Or i'm just imagining things, as I have no idea how the tranny works. Ha. Wish me luck! Hope to have it back on the road today for the first time in about 15 years. I also noticed the hockey puck thing. It must have just been a Canadian influence, as if it were Canadian, they would have done some rust proofing!